You probably don’t have a meter good enough reliably to check low resistance values, so look at the pads on those resistors with a magnifier. If you can see that they are connected together at each end, then the resistors are in parallel.
Or you can try metering across the resistors. Short the probes together to get your zero-resistance value. The measure across the resistors and subtract that value. something around 0.8 ohms means they are paralleled.
I picked up a two-pack last night for $9.88…they threw them in the wrong bin! Very impressive lights for $5!! What would happen if it was dedomed? More throw, warmer tint?
They had these marked down to $7.98 at my HD.
Even better! Very impressive for a $4 light!!
I’d guess the resistors are in parallel, and the medium mode is done via PWM. While in Medium mode, wave something shiny like a screwdriver tip in front of the light. If the motion appears smooth, it’s not PWM. If you see 20 screwdriver tips all at the same time, it’s PWM.
Or you’ve been drinking too many screwdrivers… :party:
Precisely, and I recommend not waving screwdrivers around while drinking screwdrivers. Someone could lose an eye… plus you’ll look really stupid in the flashlight aisle at HD. 
Meh… you got two…
I’ve got two of a few things, and just fine and dandy with keeping them all in pairs 
Maybe based on somthing along the lines of the PAM2805? Similar layout, same modes. Vref would be 0.095V, however, which would put the LED current on high at only 125mA, so clearly it’s a different chip.
Link to PAM2805 eval board document: http://www.diodes.com/\_files/evbd/PAM2805%20User%20Guide.pdf
Has anyone done a simple ‘dedome only’ on these? How did you like it? The tint on one of mine is spotty…changes across the beam. I thought a dedome might even it out. Help me out fellow BLFers!
The phosphor is deposited on the dome—dedoming will even out tint variation in the beam if you need or want a blue light.
I just read here that it’s actually not a remote-phosphor in the sense that I thought. Shows how much I know!
So I’m not sure what this LED would do when dedomed. Only one way to find out
Thanks Slim, I keep reading that a dedome will warm the tint some, is this emitter different?
Is this the light your talking about? Did the light contain XB-D or XT-E’s? Wondering, because it may be a cheap way to put warmer emitters this light and in other in cheap lights.
This little rascal with its ‘lowly’ XTE emitter has to be the brightest 120 lumens I’ve ever come across especially on strobe. It really smarts the peepers. Maybe it’s the particular OP reflector and/or the nature of the XTE itself but whatever it is it’s surprisingly no slouch. I’m even tempted to dedome an XTE and see what’s what.
Yeah, it’s a surprisingly nice little light. I find the beam pattern much nicer without the centering ring. Smoother transition between the hot spot and spill.
Has anyone tried to take off the head? Does it come off? The tail end screws into a an Sipik 68. I am on the road and don’t have the tools to get the head off to try. I’m thinking it would be nice to have a SK68 running off 3 - NiMH.
O-L was the first to report that the bezel screws off, but not the head. Everything is accessible when you take off the bezel though. Very easy light to work on.
All a man needs is the right tools. The head does come off but it’s glued on. I used the brute force method but there is another, more clever way. I think I read here that some sort of soak will do it, or was it heat?
Anyway, the tube DOES fit the Sipik 68 here is a pic of the new, just released, Defiant HD-68 (HD=Home Depot)
Runs on 3 - AA
Nice work. Thanks for the info.