Sirius9
(Sirius9)
August 9, 2013, 9:49am
32
You can easily center the emitter/s:
- apply fujik
- use centering rings for all emitters
- mount the reflector
- align all emitters with tweezers until reflector sits nice and flush
- press it firmly against flat surface or just screw in the glass lens and bezel.
texaspyro
(texaspyro)
August 9, 2013, 11:00am
33
It can’t be direct drive. The LEDs look like they are all connected in series. It would take around 15 cells to to direct drive them.
bibihang
(bibihang)
August 9, 2013, 12:49pm
34
Sirius9:
You can easily center the emitter/s:
- apply fujik
- use centering rings for all emitters
- mount the reflector
- align all emitters with tweezers until reflector sits nice and flush
- press it firmly against flat surface or just screw in the glass lens and bezel.
How long does the Fujik takes to become hardened?
And what if I want to use something better, says AS5, but which will never hardens? I tried to use AS5 and center my LED’s in DRY but the LED’s kept moving around.
MRsDNF
(MRsDNF)
August 9, 2013, 1:06pm
35
bibihang:
Sirius9:
You can easily center the emitter/s:
- apply fujik
- use centering rings for all emitters
- mount the reflector
- align all emitters with tweezers until reflector sits nice and flush
- press it firmly against flat surface or just screw in the glass lens and bezel.
How long does the Fujik takes to become hardened?
And what if I want to use something better, says AS5, but which will never hardens? I tried to use AS5 and center my LED’s in DRY but the LED’s kept moving around.
There are different types of AS5 available.
Sirius9
(Sirius9)
August 9, 2013, 1:26pm
36
bibihang:
How long does the Fujik takes to become hardened?
And what if I want to use something better, says AS5, but which will never hardens? I tried to use AS5 and center my LED’s in DRY but the LED’s kept moving around.
It probably depends on a temperature but in my experience after 3 hours you can still move emitter but it will hold it’s place, after 6 hours you can comfortably go on with your experimentation and after 12 hours, it’s done, hard to remove anything at this point.
If you use stuff that doesn’t harden emitter will always move.
bibihang
(bibihang)
August 9, 2013, 1:42pm
37
The one in your link is Arctic Alumina, which is an adhesive type. While I was using Artic Silver 5, it has no ceramic content with it and does not posses strong bond adhesion like Arctic Alumina.
MRsDNF
(MRsDNF)
August 9, 2013, 1:45pm
38
Down the bottom of the page is AS5 adhesive in a 7 gram tube.
bibihang:
I couldn’t wire and center all the 15 emitters like that, man it takes serious practice to be able to do that. I even have trouble to center just three emitters of my DRY.
By the way, from the picture it seems that the heatsink is black color, does it mean that the heatsink is anodized or something?
Yep each one of these kind of lights has the head anodized. It doesn’t seem to matter. There isn’t close to enough amps running through each emitter to fry them.
It’s 3 arrays of 5 emitters. So four batteries per five emitters.
blueb8llz
(blueb8llz)
August 9, 2013, 5:57pm
42
so i wont work with 3x26650s? i only have 3 from my ak47 and if i went with 4 batteries, that means i would have to buy 4 new ones.
The extension on it is for two batteries.
blueb8llz
(blueb8llz)
August 10, 2013, 1:32am
44
hmm… what if i used 4x18650’s , would it still be as bright compared to using 4x26650s?
18sixfifty
(18sixfifty)
August 10, 2013, 1:38am
45
It didn’t seem to be quite as bright with the 18650’s but I didn’t put the greatests ones in. Probably some sag involved. I would imagine with a really good set of 18650’s that it would be just as bright.
bibihang
(bibihang)
August 10, 2013, 5:33am
46
Aw, missed that, thanks for pointing out.
I want a wall of light too! Who sells these in the US?
18sixfifty
(18sixfifty)
August 10, 2013, 6:32am
48
I don’t know of anyone in the US who is selling one yet.
oRAirwolf
(oRAirwolf)
August 10, 2013, 11:45am
49
You could probably use some protected Panasonic NCR18650PD’s with no loss in current, but you would definitely lose some run time.
http://intl-outdoor.com/2-pcs-panasonic-ncr18650pd-2900mah-protected-battery-p-671.html
Might as well just get some King Kong INR’s or MNKE IMR’s in 26650 if you are going to go that route though…
http://edcplus.com/mnke-imr26650-3700mah-p-5.html
http://intl-outdoor.com/2-pcs-kingkong-inr26650e-raisedtop-4000mah-liion-battery-p-370.html
moviles2
(moviles2)
September 11, 2013, 7:40pm
50
how many mm of thickness have this host under the leds?
with this perspective I cant see it
you have pictures like this of the host for see the thickness?
like this pictures of trj18:
I need to know the thickness and if the heat transmission is good to decide what multiled host to buy
18sixfifty
(18sixfifty)
September 11, 2013, 8:17pm
51
It didn’t seem to be that thick. I sold it so I can’t say for sure how thick it is. But it seemed to be about average as far as multi-emitters go.