I agree, de-doming 1C tints and such usually end up quite crappy, yellowish, sometimes greenish.
1A is a much better starting point IMO
Yes - 1A's seem to come out well de-domed. I've been de-doming TN31's and my K40, but I believe they come with 1C's, so they do come out a bit yellow. With the de-domed 1C Shocker, it 's really dark yellow though. I could look at the exposed LED and the phoshor appears to be a darker yellow that a 1A, and only other time I noticed that is on a de-domed T6 3C, so I'm not so certain it's 1C's as vinh said they were. He buys the emitters from IS and they offer both U2 1C's and T6 3C's bare - no 1A's unfortunately. IOS has 1A's, but not bare, but his pre-mounted on Noctigons are a lot cheaper that IS's bare emitters.
With domes, the warm T3's and T4's beams look a lot better - don't notice any yellow at all, but I see yellow in 1C's and 3C's.... weird
I tightened the reflector retaining screw real good first before tightening the bezel to prevent or minimize the twisting of the reflector. Excess twisting of the reflector also cuts the silicon skin of the lead wires.
So I guess Iāll stay away from 1Cs and 3Cs then. Iāll get the 1As on Noctigon from IOS. Thank you RaceR86 & TomE! 
Oh - vinh's light had no screw in it, it was totally gone! Fortunately I found one that fits, just got to cut it down. But yes, I'm doing the same thing - tightening it up good. I got in a Shocker from the factory that had the stars twisted around so bad, one partially covered the wire hole and cut the silicon on one of the wires. The light worked but had lower output than expected and as I got from the others.
Its exactly the same when I opened my Shocker - streak of fujik from the stars because of the twisting and a lead wire with cut silicon. I think its the lead wires coming out of that hole from the pill that stopped the reflector from twisting further.
I guess the people assembling the Shocker did not care much on the lead wires shorting with the pill. 
Damn, I already got three XM-L2 U2 1C on Noctigon aroundā¦ :~
:bigsmile:
Iām currently waiting on another torch before doing some beam shots with the BTU Tom was kinda enough to do up for me but today I decides to do some measurements with my cheapo MS1010 light meter to see if it and the light were in the same ballpark as to what Tom observed. So down into the basement in my building I went with measuring tape in hand to mark out a 5meter and 15 meter (could have gone out to almost 50 meters down there) line to measure from. I took down three lights with me:
XIN TD V3 U3 with Samsung 20R
5meter:
low 71 x 25 = 1775kcd
med 359 x 25 = 8975kcd
high 1042 x 25 =26050kcd
Stock BTU with dry driver, U2, Samsung 20Qās
5 meters:
low 259 x 25 = 6475kcd
med 1303 x 25 = 32575kcd
high 3010 x 25 = 75250kcd
turbo 4170 x 25 = 104250kcd
15meters:
low 29 x 225 = 6300kcd
med 149 x 225 = 33525kcd
high 342 x 225 = 76950kcd
turbo 479 x 225 = 107775kcd
Tom E Shocker with Samsung 20Rās
High:
5meter: 17900 x 25 = 447500kcd
15meters: 1994 x 225 = 448650kcd
I only measured on high for this one as I was interruptedā¦. and to be perfectly honest some of the people in this building I donāt want to be alone with in a dark basementā¦ 
All torches were strapped to my new MacGyverāed tripod mount while I went with the meter out in front to find the sweet spot for the reading. This is my first real decent attempt at taking readings so I donāt know how accurate I or the meter was in all this but the numbers look in the ball park. The distance should be within + or - 2 inches of those distances as I really focused on not moving horizontally and only vertically during the testing.
so your one of the lucky 3 that got one of his super shockers aye. those numbers are screamin, nice!
Wow! I feel somewhat relieved. Sometimes I dunno - am I the only crazy one seeing these #'s or am I just plain crazy 
? Well Trent, you are the only chosen one at the moment - I'm having a tuff time repeating what I did there...
Oh - what's crazy is that your other lights are measuring a little low. A stock BTU with a DRY driver and 20Q's should be doing way better than that. Are you hunting for the brightest reading?
Crap! That mod'ed Shocker is freak'n awesome!! All the best with it! Oh btw, I'm ordering one of those FT camera lens bag you recommended for the Shocker (here), though I don't have a Shocker of my own yet 
.
Iām really sorry to hear your having problems with the others Tomā¦ if you need me to take pictures of anything on this one just let me know and I am more than willing to and pass them back. I would love to be able to send it back for reference if needed but with shipping being what it is between us I definitely donāt think its worth it.
I tried hunting for the brightest reading but I think heat might have come into play with the other lights. I realized almost at the end of testing (just before the Tom E Shocker) that I definitely went the wrong way when testing. I tested from the lowest to highest settings with the lights on continuously which meant the stock BTU had been on for almost 5 minutes by the time I was done the measurements on turbo. This is the first time I have ever really tried to get accurate measurements for any of my torches and like all things a little practise will go a long way Iām sure. I will do a redo in the future just to confirm and add some additional known torches but perhaps my meter also reads a little on the low side of things.
The FT pouch is awesome. I just got another order with one of each in that seriesā¦. the largest one for my other shocker and the others to see what actual lenses will fit into them. Love those pouches especially for the money they are a killer deal! :bigsmile:
Thanx!! No, I think I know what's going on. But maybe you could do me a favor - put the Shocker on low mode and hold it up to a white wall from close in, maybe a 1/3 meter, and bring it to 2-3 meters. Let me know if you see any dark spots in the middle of the each of the 3 beams, or if dark spots appear close in and go away further you bring it out, if so, what distance do they first go away at.
I'm thinking yours is perfectly focused while the two I got here have a focusing problem. I'm seeing dark spots in the center of the beams on these, while I don't recall seeing any on yours. Makes sense because I can't get as high as throw #'s on these as yours, and I did a little tweek on one to bring the LED's closer into the reflector and the throw # improved and the dark spots weakened.
Taken at about 1 foot away from the wall, camera (phone) was just above the torch. The āholes/doughnutsā disappear completely at about 1 meter or 3 feet
IOS driver has visible PWM?
certainly not visible to the naked eye even on the low setting. What you see through the camera LCD and in this pic is definitely not what I see in person. I just sent the original to my computer to see what the EXIF was for the picture to get a better idea:
Shutter speed: 1/861s
F-Number:f2.65
ISO: iso32
Not sure what it all means for helping calculate the PWM (or even if thatās possible). I also counted about 70 lines in that picā¦.
These are the doughnuts Iāve been talking about. But 1 foot is too close and these should be normal for de-domed XM-Ls/XM-L2s.
If you move to 2 to 3 meters and still get these doughnuts then I think thereās a problem with focus. If your doughnuts completely disappear at 1 meter then IMO you have a perfectly focused de-domed Shocker. :bigsmile:
Sam Fisher?
Ahh, ok, thanx! Yes, this makes some sense now. I'm seeing the donut holes further out, so worse than yours. The PWM's do exist in med and low modes on this driver, just not as bad as a DRY driver for example. It's listed at 3900 Hz.
Update:
To improve the clearance for the wire connections on the de-domed Shocker I'm working on, I dremel'ed out the backside of the reflector on each side of the LED holes, taking out 1 mm or so of aluminum. Think that did the trick - measured 436 kcd at 5 meters with Samsung 20Q's reading 6.0A. I'll post pics of the cutouts. Was worried about the alum shavings but was able to clean out the reflectors with blown air from one of the squeeze bulbs. Think that's the best I'm gonna get out of this unit - not sure why I got a little better (467 kcd) in the first one. At 3 feet, the dark spots go away but still quite evident at 1 foot.
The LED's:
rotary tool used to create the depressions:
Cleaned up:
Sanded down a little:
wow thatās a ton of work Tom. I can definitely see why you donāt care to mod more BTUās in the futureā¦. at least not these de-domed ones with the amount of time/effort that goes into focusing them. Iām also extremely and unbelievably appreciative of the time and patients you have for your work rather than just slapping it together and calling it a day. :bigsmile:
I may have another (or possible more) request for a mod from you in the near future, but I promise these ones are much more straight forward (and cheaper)! 