This driver looks like it is easy to adjust output current on and it will probably increase the efficiency significantly if the current is reduced.
I do not know how it will handle a MT-G2, due to the higher voltage, but 3 x XM-L2 in parallel would work.
I do not hope to many of the drivers I test, goes out of production, before I publish the review. Doing reviews takes time, also because I do not want to publish a lot of "same product type" reviews, just after each other. I prefer to mix the review types a bit.
Several people have used it with MT-G2. Some reports of overheating issues..
Current can easily be decreased (removing resistors like HKJ said), which probably makes it into one of the most compact 6,5A drivers for say an XM-L2 with the right resistor value.
Its also one of the few drivers that can output 3x3amps to XM-Ls from 2 cells in series without any driver modifications. And that is without any blinky modes, with decent mode spacing and with low voltage protection.
It may not be the best, but I think it deserves to be sold..
The driver (or basically the same driver) can be bought from LCK-LED, but its slightly more expensive than what intl-outdoor sold it for.
I have two of these, supposed to be the same, but one does 9A and the other only did 6.5A. The 9A one came with nine resistors - 3 on one side, and 6 on the other, double stacked. The 6.5A one only has 3 and 3.
(I changed the inductor-thing on the one on the left for space reasons, it didn't affect the output)
Yes, nine R200. I was wondering if the chip 5241a has been changed somehow. It should have 0.2V sense voltage. I = 0.2/R where R is 0.03333Ohm (9 times R200 in parallel). With 6 resistors R200 you would get 6A. I’ve seen 5241 chip in quite some bicycle lights including famous Magicshine.
So anyone who wants to mod it’s current can simply calculate it from the formula above.
That is not the point. When taking thermal images, I would not have the same cooling as when mounted in a flashlight, i.e. the temperature will not be the same. That is the reason I call the temperature meaningless.
You have to know a bit about what you are measuring on and how it is used, when using the result from a thermal imager.
The hot parts are the mosfet & two diodes(?) on the top surface of the top board. In a light, those have to be in good contact with something substantial or else you get about 5-8 minutes runtime on high before it starts giving the overheat warning. Or, at least the version I have that runs at 9A does. It seems they are highly variable in the output they leave the factory with.