Thanks for that. Thinking about it now is it simple to replace the r200 with a tiny copper wire?
it’s fairly simple 
if you have a soldering iron of course…
Will have to try it tomorow, if it becomes around 4.5A i think thats a good balance, would be nice to keep that switch on it too
I remove the R200 resistor and put a solder blob across it, getting about 4.7A on high. Another member gets 5.8A by doing the same thing though. :cowboy_hat_face:
Makes sense! Will have to try it and give results tomorow
Replaced the r200 with a small blob of solder and now i get nothing. I tried replacing it with a small wire and also replaced the r200 and still doesnt work. Dont understand why was an easy soldering job any ideas?
Edit: its working now i tried again with a blob of solder but dont understand why it didnt at first :s
and when i say working it only works when the emitter shelf isnt screwed in? When the shelf is screwed in it is permenently turned on
IIRC its quite tight around the resistor pads check you have not shorted it to any other pad.
Check to see you are not shorting the star to the back of the reflector Kapton tape is your friend.
Sounds like shorting in somewhere. I’ve had the permanently on problem too and it takes quite some time to diagnose.
Your problem occurs with/without putting on the reflector? Did you notice any smoke came out from the LED when it is on? Other than that you can also check the connectivity of your LED using a DMM. You need to check the +ve pad with the -ve pad, +ve pad with the LED star base, and -ve pad with the LED star base.
EDIT: Oh crap, my LED still on when it was switched off. I realized that it is not because of the LED but something to do with the driver. I have spent too many hours diagnosing this issue but still cannot figure out a solution, think I am going to create a new thread asking for help. :_(
I never found out what was shorting but it managed to fix itself and then me being and moron threaded the reflector back on not checking the centering ring and shorted across the reflector and blew the blard but im not too fussed got other plans for it now
Just finished filing the reflector base of my T08. What did you do to remove the dust particles from the inside of the reflector? It seem that blowing as hard as I can ain’t enough. 
Filing the base of the T08 reflector did increase the lux by 8%. I’m only getting 151kcd before. After the filing, its 163kcd. I would just leave the micro dust particle as it is for now. I can’t risk another damaged reflector.
Next mod is the Courui. J)
Try to wash it with water+some liquid soap (do not touch it with anything,just let the water flow).After that rinse it with pure alcohol and dry it with hairdryer(dry it from outside!).Oven would be probably better(no moving air-less dust).I tried this few days ago.I had one reflector with a lot of dust,and even some grease-like spots.It worked much better than I thought,reflector is now almost like new.
Thanx. But I’d rather not put it inside the oven. The T08 reflector is made of plastic. :bigsmile:
Just finished washing the reflector with warm water and hand soap solution. The result is a good as new reflector after drying it in front of the fan. Thanx for the tip led4power! 
As led4power said, wash it with water will do. I just bought a ball blower like this . Not sure if it is strong enough to blow away the dust and particles on the reflector, never tried yet.
…but since I have washed it quite many times already my T08 reflector is damaged and scratches are everywhere now, perhaps it doesn’t do 190~200kcd anymore. :bigsmile:
I guess too much of anything is not a good thing. :bigsmile:
Total newbie here, though tinkering with electronics for many years.
I just bought 2 of these (no name) for $40 US delivered.
I may be naive, but I just want to use these as a housing
and put in a new driver, springs, etc.
Would this driver do a good job in this light? Looks like it will fit.
http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10003372/1278501
V10+ 2.7~4.5V XML-T6 4-Group 1/3/4-Mode + 1~100
Ramping LED Driver Board 5000mA / overheat protection (55-60℃)
FastTech’s test results: 4/23/2013: 4450mA @ 4.2V
I hope to get about 1200 lms.
I hope to use with EBL 2600ma cells. Paid around $2 each new. Normally close to 3.
Comment on these cells from Amazon.
This review is from: EBL® 4 Pack 18650 3.7V 2600mAh Rechargeable li-ion Battery
These batteries supply my Itaste VTR vape stick. Each battery lasts for over a week before the scale says it has even moved from the full charge.
This leads me to believe the capacity is there and the ability to supply at least 3A per cell.
1 more question.
Anyone suggest a nice holster for this light?
I can’t comment on the batteries, but the ‘V10’ driver is rubbish. Quite a few people got them when they came out, myself included, & they fell way below their rated output, & had a ‘clunky’ UI.
Look into the FET based drivers that have been developed here by BLF members. You can throw one together yourself from parts, or get one ready to go at Mountain Electronics
40$ per piece or for both?
2$ battery is with a high chance junk.
V10 is definitely junk and not made for eswitches
You need a driver for a momentary switch. There are lot of customs programmed drivers available, nanjg, nanjg with stacked chips or like above suggested aFET driver….
If you need cheap batteries and don’t need them quick check this thread:Suspiciously cheap Samsung 4.35v 3200mah from DX. (SOLD OUT) UPDATE : RECEIVED REFUND FROM DX!
If you want quality and are able to pay 15$ per pair than you will have a wide variety of quality cells available.
LOL, always more to learn.
Thanks FmC
I looked at the FET drivers.
For ME they are a poor choice though there was one combination 4*7135/FET driver that looked interesting.
I prefer a regulated driver @ no more than 4.5A. 12*7135 might work well.
This will allow me to not have to modify the heat sink too much, keep light output more constant,
and still get around 1200 lumens which is enough for me.
I’m not trying to make a superlight, just a reliable, economical one with excellent throw.
If it matches my EAW8 I’ll be happy.
I think I’ll wait until the lights arrive in a month or so and see what needs to be done
before I make any changes and shoot off my mouth here.