Pop out the reflector and tell us what you find. How are the LEDs mounted? Are they on an aluminum shelf, or a plate that at least touches the insides of the head? Or are they on a cheesy little piece of aluminum that doesn’t conduct the heat anywhere?
I would like to acommodate your request but alas I could not. I ruined the switch when trying to take the switch assembly out :-(
Then I bent the metal rim that the switch pcb sits on by using a screwdriver to attempt to press out the driver. I also cut the insulation on one of the wires for the switch. And heard an uncanny crunchy sound when i pressed hard with the screwdriver. So it is no worky for me now :-(
From what I can peek through the switch hole it is a common led mcpcb that rests on a thin ledge inside secured by at least 2 screws.
Good news: I cannot could not detect pwm when it still worked. The reflector seems flawless. The light is not glued anywhere.
Bad news: The led insulator gaskets have high rims that catch some of the light. I did not get to measure throw or lumen output before i ruined it. But a guesstimate (eye only) would put output at about 2300 - 2500 lumens and throw in the ~30 kCd range.
I hate that I did not get it apart! And that it broke in the first place!
I was afraid that this method would cause the traces on the circuit board to delaminate, but after I exhausted other possibilities, I tried it and it worked for me
My king has arrived today too. Driver is crappy of course with one mosfet. Reflector is a little scratchet, leds are XM-L2.
Not measured current yet but stock is a little brighter than my king with 3x XM-L @2,8A each.
Leds have heatsinking. Pill is 3mm thick and screw in to flashlight body.
Machining is good for that price, anodisation not bad too.
I bought that flashlight becouse of leds and reflector for mod old diving flashlight.
Here are pics of the tear down.
The bezel is Aluminum, not Stainless and the button on the on-off switch is a little smaller than others I have seen.
6 XM-L2s all lined up in a row. So neat!
With the tail cap off. First time I have seen one with all 4 screws installed.
Unknown, to me, driver.
I tore the trace trying to get it out. This method works great if the driver isn’t glued in place.
So I had to go at it from the other direction. After unscrewing the bezel, I used a sock (for the feet) over my hand to unsrew the reflector. I was very happy to see this, as other cheap SRK clones did not include this. This provides a good thermal path to the body of the light.
Once I was able to get behind the reflector, I was able to pound out the driver from the back side. It took quite a lot of force to break it loose. The leads to the star are 24 gauge.
Pic of the driver, I will have to study up on this one, I don’t know if it is worth trying to improve.
The MOSFET is an HJ35N03, Chinese. I couldn’t find any parameters other than it is rated at 25V. I’m pretty sure I could just swap in one of the 70N02s.
All in all I am thrilled with the build quality of this light considering it was only $23.10 from DX-US. I could have done a lot worse. Good job DX.