Here we go.
The LD-29 has been reviewed by HKJ in two forms, see here:
Review/test of LD-29 2.8A 1/2 Cell Circuit board
1-2* Lithium 2-Group 3/5-Mode 2.8A LED Flashlight Driver (LD-29)
Mine is from FastTech but I'll note that it uses the taller inductor pictured on the IOS version. It was definitely stacked with wires like the FT model HKJ reviewed (rather than solid pins like the IOS model he reviewed).
This board uses the Microchip PIC12F683 (datasheet link) MCU. The numbering starts at the pin1 indicator (dimple or dot) and continues counterclockwise around the chip. Here are the readings I got:
- 2.48v [this pin is Vdd aka Vcc in Atmel lingo or V+]
- 2.45v [output pin, disconnected I think]
- 2.46v [output pin, "enable" for the buck circuit]
- 2.48v [not sure what this is. hooked up through a resistor, cannot supply any current]
- PWM out [note - the stock firmware does not use 100% duty cycle for high. More like 80-90%]
- 2.48v [output pin, offtime memory cap charge I think]
- ~0.45-2.0v depending on input voltage. 0.45 at 1v, 0.55 at 2.8v, 1.67 at 8.4v, and a little higher at 8.7v
- 0v [this pin is Vss aka GND]
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup 
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
I don't understand half of what you are saying (my fault, not yours), but it sounds like you figured out how to swap in a Attiny MCU on a LD-29.
Yes, but some small tweaks need to be made for voltage monitoring and to turn the driver on. Should be no problem.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Now that I think about it, this driver probably has offtime memory. I still don’t understand what that little black component is, but I now assume that Pin 7 is for offtime checking. Maybe I’d better check the little black component again.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Wow great news!
Subscribed
Can you take a photo of the black component?
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
I have flashed a 150hz STAR firmware w/ ontime memory and no LVP onto an ATiny13A and successfully operated the driver.
Clearly the PWM is no good. I will increase the frequency and see what happens – later.
In another thread I posted an ‘adapter’ for placing an ATtiny13A where a PIC12F683 goes. The link in post #58 is an update to the seriously dumb mistake I made in the one from post #47/#50. It is still untested, but I have a few on the way. As I mention over there, it requires a little filing to get working. The PCB is 1.6mm thick, so it won’t really increase the size of the driver much and should really clean up the install.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Would the BLF Tiny10 give you a solid platform to piggyback the ATtiny and supporting hardware and be able to shoe horn it in the pill?
comfychair and others seem to be getting VERY good at that lately
Excellent investigatory work there…awesome!
Excellent work! Watching with a keen eye
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Have you checked the “regulated voltage” input with different voltages?
If it is not absolutely the same on all voltages especially on low voltage it would be better to replace just the resistors for voltage monitoring…
A small driver board is ideal to do this kind of work, the tiny10 has everything needed. If the voltage gets hooked up directly with a wire the diode might not be necessary.
I checked a wide range of voltages. It seemed rock solid to me.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
That’s nice.
B.T.W
so without an MCU, this driver can work with a momentary switch connected between pin 3 to vcc and pin8 to vcc ?
I mean while pressed: light is on, otherwise: light is off.
Crap. I’ve mislabeled them! And after I got on ImA4Wheelr about the same thing. What you are thinking is fine. I’ll come back and fix everything.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
I thought about another thing.
I believe that the components are not meant to work in higher currents.
What if we change the Inductor and the Diode to something more quality for example IHLP2525CZER4R7M01 and SBRT15U50SP5-13
Do you think it will help?
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
I’ve corrected the OP. Anyone who sees errors left over please let me know and I’ll fix’m.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Thanks for the info.
Anyway, I ordered some parts, i’ll post the results when I get it.
Thanks for the info, i’ll try connecting a momentary switch as soon as I get the LD-29
just for fun.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
The new generation boards on OSH should work okay?
EDIT: Here is an Eagle screenshot showing both sides of the board. The ATtiny is on the red (top) layer, the bottom layer sits on the driver board. Pin 1 is marked with an empty white circle.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Is that real?
I paid 0.40$ for 3pcs incl. shipping.
Maybe they had a mistake on their website…
See my post #1059 in the Oshpark Projects thread for info on shipping.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
That’s what that little contact board was for in your OSHPark projects bin…awesome!
Will it need to be jumpered over to the old IC pads or are you going for a one for one dropin approach?
And no…teeny tiny boards are crazy cheap…this is why it’s only like $1.70 for 3× 15mm SK68 boards I designed
OH MAN! I so like where you are going with that. I've always missed being able to do manual pulsing (e.g. Morse code, etc). I'm gonna add another momentary to my current mod for that. Thank you!
EDIT: Love the adapter board wight. Nice work.
@ wight & WarHawk-AVG
Yep, it is totally cool! it is so easy doing mods with such prices.
@ImA4Wheelr
No problem
It might be a nice project!
you may also use a reed switch instead of a clicky switch, it might be cooler – that’s what I plan to play with.
I have ordered some more components and LD-29.
I’ll try to make a nice mod when I receive it. H)
Thanks guys. I must have been not in my right mind when I did v04 of the adapter board. Hopefully I’m in my right mind now.
I’ve reviewed the board a couple of times and it v06 continues to look right, so I think we’re OK.
Since this PCB does not expose any of the bottom leads to your soldering iron I consider it similar to a MLF package. In my opinion the best way to install these is going to be hot air reflow onto a clean PIC landing pattern. Use desoldering braid to clean up all the old solder, then apply solder past, then reflow the PCB into position.
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
I was reviewing the pinout just now to do the required STAR firmware modifications and realized that there’s a small problem with the adapter PCB for this application. The offtime cap is on pin 6, which the adapter brings straight through (to pin 6 on the ATtiny13A). Unfortunately there is not an ADC on that pin, it cannot be used for offtime.
Also, it seems that hardware PWM is only available on Pin #‘s 5 & 6! Lucky for us #5 is the PWM pin.
For the LD-29 Pin #2 is NC, so hooking the ATtiny up to that pin doesn’t do anything. Instead we’ll move Pin2 on the attiny to the #6 position on the PCB and not worry about losing any features. At this point the board is getting a little crowded:
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
Damn I ordered 6 of the v6’s literally 10 minutes ago!
Still should work or no?
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
Here is the v07 from the previous post – https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/iN0zkxJn
Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)
So I would wire a cap to the ATTiny pin2 (or just a jumper wire from pin2 to pin6 to use the on board cap)?
And this uses stock off-time FW or the ports need changed?
Thx
RIP SPC Joey Riley, KIA 11/24/14. Now I am become death, the destroyer of worlds.
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