With the cutaway, I can now show people the method I use by filling the hole behind the emitter w/ epoxy to facilitate pulling heat to the sides (I guess the potting method would actually be better)
Great pics man!!!
(this needs to be stickied)
and of course MORE lights need to be sectionalized
The main design problem, aside from the hollow pill, appears to be the thin section between the bottom of the pill and the finned part of the body. This may keep it from becoming too hot to hold, but it reduces the cooling of the led. A way for a clone maker to avoid that may be to make the light slightly longer and overlap the pill with the thick finned section. Or one could make the head thinner and the front of the body thicker. In practice, the finned section heats up about as much as the head does, so it may not be a serious problem. The overall thickness and the well shaped fins imply importance of thermal management, so these problems threaten its right to dominate it class.
An aftermarket fix for the hollow pill is to use a thicker star.
(The one I am working on with an XM-L2 on a Noctigon draws two amps. from an IRM, so I want to braid the tail spring/switch.)
I use thermal compound on all my lights with screw in pills and on most of the really high power ones at the head:body connection. Dont forget that on higher quality lights the threads are going to be more precision cut leading to a better amount of surface contact.
I’m surprised the lens cut so cleanly! I’m also surprised to see copper inside the clicky.