I don't know why someone would want a diffuser on a thrower, but just for info purpose, I was playing today and the diffuser lens and rubber bezel assembly for the Olight SR51 fits the HD2010 like a glove.

The resulting beam is perfectly diffused, obviously useful at a very short range (for example it's perfect for indoor use)

My HD2010 is finally complete!

Mine arrived with some “issues”. It worked okay, but only pulled about 1 amp for some reason.

I promptly removed the led and driver, replaced with a XML-U3, and the Nanjg105c +1 7135 and custom Luxdrv.

Worked great! Until it was hot, then it started to “sing” and dim. My ears took me to the tailcap. The switch had a broken solder joint, so I just replaced the whole thing with a forward clickie, and my light is now complete!

Best thrower I have for sure, but I gotta admit, my XinTD is still not all that far behind, and it arrived pretty much perfect. No fuss.

Meh, it’s fun to mod.

BLF rocks.

I started having problems with my HD2010 changing modes by itself again.  The springs aren't springy enough.  I'm going to replace them with better springs.

Rockspider wrote:

I don't know why someone would want a diffuser on a thrower, but just for info purpose, I was playing today and the diffuser lens and rubber bezel assembly for the Olight SR51 fits the HD2010 like a glove.

The resulting beam is perfectly diffused, obviously useful at a very short range (for example it's perfect for indoor use)

Thanks.  I might get one.

Andi wrote:

I use a razor blade and cut in the dome a little bit on the opposite side of the bonding wires. Then use tweezer, hold star and press the dome directly on a cookplate(full power) for 25sec.
Then lift the dome with fingernail at the cut.

Most time it works perfectly.

Hey Andi… do you think a ~25 watt soldering iron could be used to heat the dome?

How hot is your cook plate? Is it hot enough to boil water?

Thanks!!

Yeah, that's what I have been using. Just press the iron against the bottom of the star and the slowly pry it away. 

My experience in use a solder iron are not good!

And maybe it´s a translation error….with cook plate i mean my “stove”, it have 4 cookplates and yes, it boils water……and my meal everday.
If my wife is not cooking, i cook XM-L´s.

nice foy were did you get your o rings for it and what size are they

hi, where can i found one for a good price please ? (i’m in france … so if you can give me an adress on internet please )

here

http://www.fasttech.com/products/0/10002766/1205801-fandyfire-hd2010-cre...

I just received a gray Trustfire HD2010 from TMart priced at 27 euros.

The light is in good condition – no noticeable dings or scratches. I quickly dropped in a freshly charged Soshine protected 26650 “5500mha” and turned it on with no issue. The led looks like a XML2. No brand name or model ref written on it. No lanyard either.

However, i did a quick tail cap current test and could not get more then 2.3A – pressing hard on both the battery and tube. Quite far from the 5A some got three years ago… Note that i’m not an expect at testing tail cap currents with my cheap DMM and weak probes…

I haven’t looked at it in details, but i find the reflector a bit odd. Usually, when i look straight at a light reflector, closing one eye, i only see yellow reflected all over. With this light, i see an irregular yellow blob in the center – not covering the whole circle… And even loaded with a fat protected 26650, some stuff rattles inside when i handle the light. I even suspect the front lens is not tightly fixed in place… Gotta do some work on it!

Still a nice light for the price – and certainly a great host for modding.

Any suggestion for a driver swap with a supplier outside the US (i’m in Europe)? A 3.5 – 4A one with no disco modes would be nice… 0:)

patmurris wrote:

I just received a gray Trustfire HD2010 from TMart priced at 27 euros. The light is in good condition - no noticeable dings or scratches. I quickly dropped in a freshly charged Soshine protected 26650 "5500mha" and turned it on with no issue. The led looks like a XML2. No brand name or model ref written on it. No lanyard either. However, i did a quick tail cap current test and could not get more then 2.3A - pressing hard on both the battery and tube. Quite far from the 5A some got three years ago... Note that i'm not an expect at testing tail cap currents with my cheap DMM and weak probes... I haven't looked at it in details, but i find the reflector a bit odd. Usually, when i look straight at a light reflector, closing one eye, i only see yellow reflected all over. With this light, i see an irregular yellow blob in the center - not covering the whole circle... And even loaded with a fat protected 26650, some stuff rattles inside when i handle the light. I even suspect the front lens is not tightly fixed in place... Gotta do some work on it! Still a nice light for the price - and certainly a great host for modding. Any suggestion for a driver swap with a supplier outside the US (i'm in Europe)? A 3.5 - 4A one with no disco modes would be nice... 0:)

They are very cheap lights and you may well go through 6 of them like I did. Terrible quality, unless modded. You'd have to mod it to do any real retinal "damage." lol Why not mod with an XP-L HI on Noctigon and see what kind of results you get? 

@Rusty Joe: thanks for the idea, it should yield some more lumen indeed. However, this light seems under driven and i’d love to push a bit the emitters. As far as i understand, the ‘original’ version had direct drive on hi and then regulated on mid and low. I wish to find a similar driver that would fit this host.

Heat dissipation？

I bought mine years ago from TMART, and only recently popped in a LG HE4 to see how it performs. I never really assessed it in the past with anything other than a Trustfire 26650. The tailcap reading I measured with the HE4 was 6.3A using a 10AWG cable and a DC Amps Clamp Meter. Mines clearly one of the good ones that was available for a time. I’ve not modded my torch.