BLF A6 FET+7135 Light Troubleshooting and Mod thread

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hank
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RustyShackleford … tailcaps exchange or not

Copied to “What Legoes With What” collection at http://budgetlightforum.com/node/41496#comment-848079
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hank wrote:
Quote:
RustyShackleford … tailcaps exchange or not

Copied to “What Legoes With What” collection at http://budgetlightforum.com/node/41496#comment-848079
(link works if you’re viewing 300 comments per page)

Thanks

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Do you guys and gals think this light would still benefit from the tail spring bypass mod with the S2+ tailcap installed? Can the S2+ switch handle that kind of thing?

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I have a couple of S2+ hosts, and they definitely needed a tail spring bypass for a triple. I haven’t tried one with a single emitter though.

I made a triple S2+ without the tail bypass… and it kinda melted the spring so that it’s always compressed now. Sad

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ToyKeeper wrote:
I have a couple of S2+ hosts, and they definitely needed a tail spring bypass for a triple. I haven’t tried one with a single emitter though.

I made a triple S2+ without the tail bypass… and it kinda melted the spring so that it’s always compressed now. Sad

Ok good to know. How may amps are you pulling with a triple?

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ToyKeeper wrote:
I made a triple S2+ without the tail bypass… and it kinda melted the spring so that it’s always compressed now. Sad

But the metal switch is still functional even with the current draw of a tripel?
My plan is to build a triple with an A6 driver in a S2+ host (with metal switch), but I couldn’t find more info (max. Amps) about the switch.
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RustyShackleford wrote:
Ok good to know. How may amps are you pulling with a triple?

More than any of my equipment can measure.

The light works fine… it just compressed the spring so far that even a light tap will cause it to change modes. It’s fixable by stretching the spring out (or putting in a new one) and adding a spring bypass.

For higher-amp lights like a triple XP-L, I have a solid post on one end of the battery and a really strong spring on the other side (q-lite springs are actually pretty awesome).

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Somebody please correct me if I’m wrong, but I always look at the switch in this perspective. If it’s supposed to be able to do 1.5A at 125V, then that would be 3A at 62.5V or 6A at 31.25V or 12A at 15.625V or 24A at 7.8125V or 48A at 3.90625V, well I think you can see that they should handle anything we have cells for. I don’t know if this is the correct way to evaluate these switches, but I’m sure someone can and will chime in if I’m off base.

I’ve run a small Omten at 21A in my Ti X6 with 4 Nichia 219C and so far so good. It could fail tomorrow of course, but…

I’ve also had good luck stretching a spring back into proper form then bypassing it with a wire bypass. The wire carries the current from this point forward and the spring has always worked to keep the cell in contact. Again, so far so good.

Typical triples with XP-L HI emitters run around 11-12A, with XP-G2 emitters around 9-11A. That’s if you do spring bypasses and kill all resistance possible while using a top high discharge cell with a good solid ground in the host body.

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Is there a link somewhere for this solid post mod?

I did the spring bypass on the s2+metal tail switch that I have on my A6 today and it seems to be working fine. I have a regular NCR18650B so I’m sure it’s not putting it to the test though.

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cajampa wrote:
Tom E wrote:

Weird maybe, but it seems after I Nyogel bare or close to bare threads, I always seem to get a little more out of the lumens measurements - same cells, everything else the same. Just did that last night, and I've seen it several other times. Nyogel is supposed to be non-conductive, but still seems like the best thing around. I'm so glad a while back I bought a large tube from a BLF member, who bought up a bunch of ol Motorcraft tubes for cheap.

Sounds interesting, but the discussion you all had after this post just made me confused :~ Exactly what kind of Nyogel are you talking about? EDIT I guess from post #356 the 760G kind? EDIT2 At least Nyogel 760G looks to be pretty much non toxic. http://www.nyelubricants.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/0/cd4ec0f4a93c98f4b2... http://www.ebay.com/itm/ArmyTek-Nyogel-760G-Flashlight-Silicone-Grease-C... EDIT3 It is almost impossible to stay away from something that could give an output boost so i think i will have to try it sooner or later. Can you Tom E give a hint on the range we are talking about, is it about 1%-2% when it does go up?

Ooops sorry didn't see this. Definitely Nyogel 760G. The difference is minor but varied radically from light to light, all depending. I've probably seen high as of 20 lumens, so for 600'ish lights, that's 3.3%. I'd say 0-4% in a range.

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RustyShackleford wrote:
Is there a link somewhere for this solid post mod?

I did the spring bypass on the s2+metal tail switch that I have on my A6 today and it seems to be working fine. I have a regular NCR18650B so I’m sure it’s not putting it to the test though.


You probably won’t see much difference with a NCR18650B.

As for a solid post… not much explanation is needed. Just solder a chunk of metal to one end or the other. Or even just put a solder blob on where a spring would normally go. For parts, check http://www.mtnelectronics.com/ , under Components -> Springs / Brass Buttons.

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DB Custom wrote:
Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, but I always look at the switch in this perspective. If it's supposed to be able to do 1.5A at 125V, then that would be 3A at 62.5V or 6A at 31.25V or 12A at 15.625V or 24A at 7.8125V or 48A at 3.90625V, well I think you can see that they should handle anything we have cells for. I don't know if this is the correct way to evaluate these switches, but I'm sure someone can and will chime in if I'm off base. I've run a small Omten at 21A in my Ti X6 with 4 Nichia 219C and so far so good.

This is surely not how that works, when 'on', a switch only 'sees' the voltage over itself and in principle only the current determines how much it can take. But voltages in the circuit are not irrelevant, during the switching on and off, arcing can occur that damages the switch, this effect does increase with voltage. So in the end voltage does matter but not in the way you reason.

That that small Omten can take 21A is nothing less than a small miracle, in principle the building design is good, but with its thin metal strips in a fairly soft plastic housing I would not have given it more than 3A, until it happily survived 16 in my test, and now 21A in your triple Surprised.

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I doubt it would handle 48A because AC, measured at RMS and not peak voltage, “sees” less resistance in a conductor (or switch assembly) at a given voltage than DC does, so there is not a direct correlation between the two. IIRC (and it’s been a long time ago since I was in it this deep) the DC capacity of a conductor (switch) is roughly calculated at 62% of an equal AC voltage and current level.

Ohm’s law is far more complex with AC than DC- AC and Ohm’s Law explains it better than I can.

Phil

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ToyKeeper wrote:
RustyShackleford wrote:
Is there a link somewhere for this solid post mod?

I did the spring bypass on the s2+metal tail switch that I have on my A6 today and it seems to be working fine. I have a regular NCR18650B so I’m sure it’s not putting it to the test though.


You probably won’t see much difference with a NCR18650B.

As for a solid post… not much explanation is needed. Just solder a chunk of metal to one end or the other. Or even just put a solder blob on where a spring would normally go. For parts, check http://www.mtnelectronics.com/ , under Components -> Springs / Brass Buttons.

You are correct. I unsurprisingly noticed no gain from the spring bypass using NCR18650B. I have some Sanyo NCR18650GA’s on the way so hopefully I may see a difference using those.

In hindsight I feel silly asking about the post mod now. it’s really straight forward lol.

The s2 tailcap and switch do look sharp on the a6 though I must say.
I have most of the anodizing brushed off just leaving some blue highlights in the knurling and around the switch.

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looks sharp.

If you want to get the rest of the blue off, grab some Greased Lightning and soak it for a couple hours.

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

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pilotdog68 wrote:
looks sharp.

If you want to get the rest of the blue off, grab some Greased Lightning and soak it for a couple hours.

Ya will do. I went out today to grab some oven cleaner, got to Wallmart, spent $47, and came home without oven cleaner. D’oh.

So I put the wire brush on the dermal when I got home, just to give the oven cleaner a head start when I do eventually get it. I got a little carried away, and here we are.

!{height:800px; width:800px} photo 2015-11-15 21.05.24_zpsgpyjczam.jpg!

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djozz wrote:
That that small Omten can take 21A is nothing less than a small miracle, in principle the building design is good, but with its thin metal strips in a fairly soft plastic housing I would not have given it more than 3A, until it happily survived 16 in my test, and now 21A in your triple

There is a Omten switch in the S2+ metal switch assembly?
I just got an answer from Simon (Convoy), I asked him about the maximum current on the S2+ metal switch, his answer is 3A (no voltage mentioned, but I think it’s meant in the flashlight context).
I have a blue S2+ host on it’s way, so I will see…
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This is inside the metal switch in my blue s2+

 photo 2015-11-15 22.53.49_zpsadkycmqf.jpg!

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It looks like an omten 1288 or a clone. Omtens say “omten” on the top at one end. Would have to crash test it or pop it open to compare the guts.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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I realized I could just move the switch over from the a6 and put it under the metal button in the S2 tailcap. So now I have the A6 switch inside the S2+ tailcap on the rear end of my A6.
Works perfectly.

Also I did some water testing of this hybrid tailcap. Without adding a gasket or doing any further modification, the tailcap with metal clicky and A6 switch appear to be waterproof on it’s own.
Granted I only filled my tube so didn’t get anywhere near the ipx-8 standard depth of 2 meters, but I did slosh it around and click it 40 or 50 times.
When I took everything apart I looked and there was no water ingress, so then I did the same thing but with batteries installed. Everything turned out fine.

When I took it apart after the second test I realized there is space to double up on o-rings on both ends

Is the coupon code for the unanodized version still kicking around? I think I may grab one of these in a cooled tint. This “3D” tint is pretty warm, like incandescent or warmer. I think they may have sent the wrong emitter in this light.
The sku says 3D but Idunno about that. This is the warmest light I’ve seen since my mini mag incandescent back in 1999, warmer even.

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The 3D is warmer than my 5A

Words can be broken,
so can bones.

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DB Custom wrote:
Somebody please correct me if I'm wrong, but I always look at the switch in this perspective. If it's supposed to be able to do 1.5A at 125V, then that would be 3A at 62.5V or 6A at 31.25V or 12A at 15.625V or 24A at 7.8125V or 48A at 3.90625V

 

In some instances current up voltage down and vice versa. (A.C. transformers; multivoltage motors for example). But I can say that when dealing with 120v vs. 277v systems the allowabe wire ampacity does not change. 12 awg is still only allowed 20 (in general) amps at either voltage. What does change is the amount that equipment will pull. I.E. I can put twice as many fluorescent lights on a 277v 20a circuit as compared to a 120v 20a circuit. Smile

Dustin

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RustyShackleford wrote:
I realized I could just move the switch over from the a6 and put it under the metal button in the S2 tailcap. So now I have the A6 switch inside the S2+ tailcap on the rear end of my A6.
Works perfectly.

Also I did some water testing of this hybrid tailcap. Without adding a gasket or doing any further modification, the tailcap with metal clicky and A6 switch appear to be waterproof on it’s own.
Granted I only filled my tube so didn’t get anywhere near the ipx-8 standard depth of 2 meters, but I did slosh it around and click it 40 or 50 times.
When I took everything apart I looked and there was no water ingress, so then I did the same thing but with batteries installed. Everything turned out fine.

When I took it apart after the second test I realized there is space to double up on o-rings on both ends

Is the coupon code for the unanodized version still kicking around? I think I may grab one of these in a cooled tint. This “3D” tint is pretty warm, like incandescent or warmer. I think they may have sent the wrong emitter in this light.
The sku says 3D but Idunno about that. This is the warmest light I’ve seen since my mini mag incandescent back in 1999, warmer even.


Doubling the o-rings works on the bare model but not on the black anodized as the second o-ring prevents the tail cap from screwing completely on.

Could you set picture size to 100% please? Huge pictures cause the text to shrink. 100% keeps pic widths the same as the text box. Thanks.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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Sorry about that. I thought my phone was just being stupid. I’ll see what I can fix.

Edit: I don’t know how to go back and fix it.

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I got already a lot of troubles with this light. Firstly the clip was totally deformed and the ring in the tailcap was not fixable. From the support I got a replacement but it took a lot of time.
Since about 2 weeks ago the moonlight mode does not work any more and the support from Banggood (Neils assistant) just don’t want to help me but wants me to order a new driver. WTF?
Firstly I don’t want do solder around on the light just because some parts are shitty and secondly I dont want so spend any more money on a product that was produced faulty. Where is the good support that everybody is speaking of?

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RustyShackleford wrote:
Sorry about that. I thought my phone was just being stupid. I’ll see what I can fix.

Edit: I don’t know how to go back and fix it.


Use the text editor. Delete the image file(basically everything but the words you typed)and reinsert it with the sunset icon. In that drop down box set size to 100%.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

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RustyShackleford wrote:
I have some Sanyo NCR18650B on the way so hopefully I may see a difference using those.

The SANYO B's are the same as Panasonic B's - you should not see any difference. If you want high performance, you really need to be using high performance cells, like the Samsung 30Q, LG HG2, LG HE2/HE4 or higher capacity 10A cells like the SANYO GA or LG MJ1.

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Tom E wrote:

RustyShackleford wrote:
I have some Sanyo NCR18650B on the way so hopefully I may see a difference using those.

The SANYO B’s are the same as Panasonic B’s – you should not see any difference. If you want high performance, you really need to be using high performance cells, like the Samsung 30Q, LG HG2, LG HE2/HE4 or higher capacity 10A cells like the SANYO GA or LG MJ1.

That post was supposed to say 18650GA. I have some Sanyo 18650GAs on the way that I’m hoping to see some better results with. I’ll go back and correct it the post avoid any further confusion.

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My step down from turbo is 55 sec., I’ve read it was timed not thermal step down. My main reason for mentioning this is my A6 doesn’t seem to go into “TURBO” level. I mean it steps up to the highest setting (level 7 and level 4) in each mode but it also only pull 3.2amps on the highest level (I mentioned all this on another thread) with an NCR18650GA which pulls 4.75 amps on 2 other DD lights I have. I have taken this light completely apart and cleaned and polished some contacts and it has made no difference. I was going to bypass the springs with some braided wire, but I don’t think that’s the problem since almost everyone else is pulling over 4 amps tail current without bypassing. Do you think touching up the solders on the components might help?

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The A6 should pull well up into the 4A range with any cell capable of producing it. With top cells it will do 5A. With spring bypasses and top cells, I’ve seen results over 6A. Literally. A friend recently sent me 2 A6’s to do spring bypasses on and after doing so, each one pulled 6.18A at the tail.

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