Looking at it more, as David said the ground ring could cause a problem, and I’m not sure what would happen if Pin1 (the dot) is shorted to ground. It looks close.
I would suggest soldering both your power supply/battery connection to the Batt+ spring pad for testing. Otherwise you will probably have to un-solder the LED+ wire every time you want to reflash. There usually isn’t enough space for the SOIC8 clip to fit with the wire there.
I think I’ll pick the best looking one of the three I got and give it a try - carefully handsoldering. Will finish some other stuff first, but will keep you updated. Thanks
check continuity between Pin1 and gnd, there shouldn’t be any. I’m not positive, but I think there might be a chance of ‘bricking’ your attiny if there is. (maybe someone else can confirm yea/nay?) Pin1 is the Reset pin.
Copper is pretty far from the edge. Copper not drawn past edge of board? It looks almost as if the milling line were drawn and the copper just drawn to the inner edge of the milling line but sometimes fabs don’t come out quite as intended.
Oshpark doesn’t like copper right up to the board edge. They have often moved it back from the edge on my boards. And I use very thin milling lines, 0.01-0.03mm, with my ground copper beyond the board edge. Their official specs say “at least 15 mil clearances from traces to the edge of the board”.
The lack of a ground ring on the left side is a combination of two issues. 1) Oshpark does not support copper right up to the edge of the board. Must be 15 mil clearance from the edge of the board. If you try to go right up to the edge with your ground ring, they will cut it back. So this part is not error on oshpark’s side.
2) The soldermask is shifted more than usual for oshpark. This might be a legitimate defect on the fab’s part. Oshpark’s specs say “Maximum soldermask expansion, retraction, or shift is 3mil.”
There might an issue with the plating but I can’t really see it in that picture. Maybe it’s just scuffed up from mailing? I’ve had scuffs of the gold plating on some of my boards.
Personally, I’d try one of the boards, if I could reflow it ok without shorts due to the shifted soldermask then I wouldn’t bother asking for a replacement.
If you are using a retaining ring (or soldering to a pill), you will have plenty of ground contact on the back side, but I personally would contact Oshpark because they are so easy to work with, and also I’m interested if they would comment on why they think it happened (maybe I can change a way I do something?).
Has anyone else bought any of these boards? If it was something pilotdog68 did, or failed to do, they should all show up like this, right? Would be interesting to know.
All of my SOD323 diodes say 47 on the top with no line on either end. I am assuming that the 4 would be on the side away from the line drawn on the 22mm driver? The anode on the diode is to the left of the label on the diode if held in normal reading position.
I used to have some diodes that said “41” and the ‘1’ was the “line side”. You can always try it, if you have it on wrong the driver simply won’t power up.
That is the direction I thought they went, thanks for the confirmation. What diodes do you use now and is there a reason other than price? That is just for reverse polarity right? It would be much easier to install them if they were 0805 rather than those darn things with legs.
yeah it’s reverse polarity. I actually really like the 323 package for those diodes.
I usually order the cheapest diodes that work for the application, and that usually means stuff that’s about to be phased out. So every time I have gone back to order more, I’ve had to find a different part number that wasn’t discontinued.