That one you linked is the Tiny III. You can tell because it has knurling on the tailcap and a metal switch button.
The latest model, the Tiny IV, has a black rubber switch boot and no knurling on the tailcap.
The Tiny IV is superior due to higher output, internal heatsinking, a better UI (it has a shortcut to turbo from off), is less likely to accidentally turn on in the pocket, and is easier to mod.
helou.i want to change the driver in this flashlite.which could be good?thanks.i want maximum,maybe turbo timer.something,like our fet.but this is side switchā¦
The light uses a single board that contains both the driver and the LED. There is no separate star. Merely changing the driver isnāt an option since typical replacement drivers do not have the LED on them and there isnāt room to mount a star in front of the driver and still have room for the optic.
However, it is possible to convert this light to a triple. The shorter optic on a triple frees up enough space to mount a platform for the triple star ahead of the driver.
ohā¦lost this infosā¦.oh noā¦thats bad for meā¦tripple is too hard to do.i wanted only new driverā¦so,thats the end of the modingā¦bleeeeeeeeeeeee:)))
Iāve converted a couple DQG Tiny IIIs into triples. Both of them also had the 20mm bezel, just like the Tiny IV.
Fortunately, it is not necessary to make a new bezel. Both of these solutions work:
Place a fat o-ring on top of the bezel. Just thick enough to project over the edge of the bezel onto the optic; or
Buy a 22mm AR coated plastic lens from flashlightlens.com. Then file part of the edge of the lens so just the edge is much flatter and fits under the bezel (this is the option I preferred for my lights). The lens sits on top of the optic and holds it all together.
Be very careful if youāre using a thin glass lens to hold in the optic. I tried that and the lens cracked. Too much pressure against the edges of the lens. Glass lenses are great at resisting pressure when supported on both sides (as in most flashlights). They arenāt so good at resisting torquing action (only one side of the glass is supported while pressure tries to bends the glass (in this case around the edges of the optic). Also if you ever drop the light and it hits bezel down the impact will likely drive the optic through the lens.
To avoid this I recommend using an acrylic lens or an o-ring.
A triple or quad build seems possible with a custom heatsink sitting over that shelf or maybe even press fit to the body, but is there enough room for a piggyback in there?
this small baby flashlight is a atriple xplhi is really suicideā¦some convoy i have and its really hot model:)
but i would like to get this tiny with better driver and it would be enough.7 amps on IMRā¦
Yes, one downside is with the FET driver at max power, the head gets VERY hot very fast. Too hot too comfortably touch in 15 seconds is possible.
This was such a problem on my DQG Tiny III triple I ended up installing an external heatsink and button cover. This enlarged the head of the light, but made it able to run considerably longer without overheating.
Note that the Tiny IIIās button is setup differently than the Tiny IV. In the Tiny III, the button is mounted inside its socket in the head and is connected to the driver via 2 tiny wires. In the Tiny IV, the button is part of the driver.
For purposes of modding the light into a triple, I think itās easier to mount the button in the socket in the head rather than as part of the driver. Glue a replacement switch in place with arctic alumina then wire it to the driver. File off a notch in the star and heatsink so the switch wires can get from the switch to the driver. You can buy switches 50 to a pack for a few bucks on Ebay.