Jaxman Z1 Discussion

The physics of it all is confusing to me. How can brighter throw less far …. Uhh….no simply don’t get it.

Or how can dimmer throw further? It’s about losses and efficiencies.

By pre-focusing the light with the first aspheric, the second aspheric isn’t bending the light as much, so it has a bigger brighter hot spot. But due to this spot being larger, it doesn’t have the specific intensity that a smaller more gathered spot would have. More lumens overall, as more of the light is captured and dispered, but less intensity due in part, no doubt, to an improper mating of optics.

The best throwers have been the smaller dies, a de-domed XP-G2 or even XP-E2, making relatively little lumens put putting it all downrange in a tight beam.

Someone needs to create a “that’s over my head” emogee :cry:

:+1: …. :wink:

Edit to add: It sure does look nice though……… :+1:

If you have a 12” water pipe, it’s really difficult to get high water pressure. But if you have a 1/2” water pipe, high water pressure is pretty easy. The small die surface acts similarly in that it’s more easily collimated to throw all it’s light output downrange. This is what the aspheric is doing, concentrating all the available light in a small column.

I’m working on my copper Z1 heatsinks today. Would y’all prefer a copper heatsink with a driver pocket that accommodates the stock 22mm driver, and so requires a brass adapter ring to use smaller ones such as 17mm drivers, or would it be ok if the heatsink is only be compatible with 17mm drivers? I figure most people will want to use 17mm drivers but the option to use 22mm MTN buck drivers and such might be appealing to some. Using a 17mm retaining ring would allow me to use the ones I’ve already got made for the s2+ heatsinks, which would be convenient for me, and also I wouldn’t have to make adapter rings either, but I’m willing to do it if people want 22mm driver compatibility.

I vote for the 17mm.

I use FET+1 at 17mm virtually all the time, almost never use a 22mm.

I would prefer a 22mm driver pocket, but will buy whatever you end up making.

I prefer the 22mm but will take what is available. (both)

I already ordered the 22mm buck driver from MTN.

A blank 22mm driver or adapter would work easy to install a 17mm driver right?
We know a 26650 cell with big button or big + contact point is not an happy combo on this size pill with a default 17mm driver and retainer ring :wink:

No, the reason this was a problem on the Cometa is because the pill was designed and made wrong. The driver was set much to deep in the pill. :person_facepalming:

Edit: I Do Not see this as an issue with a “Hoop made pill”… it will be done correctly. :+1:

That’s the truth TheMiller :slight_smile:

Thanks guys, 22mm it shall be.

Mtn makes a 22mm Fet+1 board as well.

Well I do not doubt HOOP guys :wink:
Just that with a driver retainer ring the driver will be a bit in the pill contact with cell via spring and the ring will have a inner diameter smaller then some buttons and + contact points on 26650 cells.
I think a 22mm driver hole is safer and it does not pose a problem for all who want to use a smaller then 22mm driver.

Besides safety a 22mm hole would mean more options for drivers so I think that too is an advantage.
I am trying to look at what is best for the most.
I have the LED and driver sorted out for the Z1 host (either Luminus SST90 or MTG2 for which o have drivers in 17mm (all LEDs and drivers thanks to Pinkpanda!)) and a 17mm hole would be great for me but I like options and choice for all :wink:

And I was here under the impression HOOP wanted some input what size hole to make.
But honestly when I read people already bought 22mm drivers it should be a no brainer in my book.
But that is just IMHO :wink:

Edit LOL writing at same time as HOOP.

I say 17 mm all the way, many more driver choices right out of the box than a 22mm.

Ball park estimation ( if you’ll give one :wink: …), how much cost would the 22 mm option add to each pill Hoop?

The Miller…. the Cometa pill was made WRONG…………. nothing more nothing less.

The problem had Nothing to do with battery contact point sizes. End of story on the Cometa. No reason to post anything other than the Cometa pill was made WRONG. :slight_smile:

And because one person has posted he bought a 22mm driver does not make this a “no brainer” to make it 22mm.

Making it 22mm has nothing to do with “safety”, otherwise there would be no 17mm option. :person_facepalming:

Now if it is because the 22mm option offers “more options to more people”…. fine. That is fact and I would have to agree. I just hope it does not significantly increase the price.

Hmm I only referred to the Cometa as example for possible dangers.
It is simple logic to me that a - connected ring with a size lots of + sides of 26650 cells can easy touch poses a non ideal situation being most drivers we use have a spring to connect the + side with the driver and springs are made to be compressed. If a brass/copper cap would be placed on that spring yes then it would be certain the + connecting side is highest part of the driver and thus safe.
None of my decent 26650 lights have a 17mm driver (or it cannot be seen thanks to a plastic protective disc covering all but the spring to the driver), off the top of my head Orcatorch WR10, Convoy BD01, Convoy BD06, On The Road X5, No name dual LED, Jaxman Z1, Convoy L6, Thorfire S70.

I do have some 26650 lights that have a pressed in driver (those G700 Ultrafire ones and the not easy to take apart Warsun X65 seems to have a pill pressed
And some other cheapa$$ 26650 zoomies
In these cases the spring ia (even fully compressed) the highest point

So that makes them all safe on this part.

Please point me to a decent 26650 light with a 17mm driver held into place by a ring and I stand corrected that it can be done safe.

22-17mm adapter boards are cheap and easy to get. So I really miss why a default 17mm hole is more versatile then a 22mm hole.
Also I miss why drilling and threading a 22mm hole would be more expensive but I am not a machinist so apologies for not understanding that.

HOOP, I thought that ALU is better in heat transfer then brass so maybe make ALU pills? That would be an improvement to the stock pills, easier to make and cheaper right? (Again please correct me if I am wrong here :wink: )

FWIW, use a brass post on a 17mm driver in combination with a 26650 cell, No issue. :wink:

Agree!
And could that not also be soldered on the inside to a braid as spring bypass? Would look very tidy.