What did you mod today?

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pinkpanda3310
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I wasn’t sure if I should be going that fast but it was a test piece so I wasn’t bothered too much.

  

DB Custom
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It’s not about the piece being threaded, it’s about crashing the machine and breaking the slide or the holder or at the very least destroying the threading insert. A crash will usually ruin integrity of the slide, making it sloppy so you’ll never have accurate cuts again and it can yank the piece out of the chuck and send it flying, crashing into other components or you, doing extraneous damage in addition to what’s done to the lathe. Hence, machinists missing fingers or blind in one eye.

pinkpanda3310
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Honestly I wasn’t that worried about crashing. Another way is to position the cutter on the back side of the work piece, set the chuck in reverse and work away from the chuck.

  

DB Custom
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I was warned against that, as a jam would unthread the heavy chuck and send it flying, most likely crashing the ways and ruining the lathe.

MRsDNF
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Very clever. that would be good for doing internal threads . TL recommended threading backwards somewhere here. I think it was in relation to blind internal threads. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

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TexasLumens
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MRsDNF wrote:
Very clever. that would be good for doing internal threads . TL recommended threading backwards somewhere here. I think it was in relation to blind internal threads. Thumbs Up

I do everything backards! Question I learned from an Aussie!!!

I do cut all my internal threads from the inside of the part to the outside. Even threads cut on my CNC lathe as it helps with tool clearance at the turret and both manual and CNC cutting in reverse drags the swarf out of the part….most timessometimes… ummmm…. when it wants to! This will generally work FOR THREADING ONLY even on a lathe with a screw on chuck. Heavy reverse direction cutting (boring, drilling etc) will un-screw a thread on chuck most times even if the chuck has a lock. For D5, D4 etc chucks, it doesn’t matter. The tool drag on threading is so light you can get away with it. Remember as well that on some manual lathes, you need to reverse the lead screw…others… the lead screw reverses when the rest of the machine reverses.

Now it gets confusing… If you are cutting RIGHT HAND threads in reverse direction… you need a left hand tool and insert… or grind a left hand tool. I have always said that the hardest part of threading on a lathe is choosing the tooling. I hope this can help. TL

Texas Lumens Website… http://www.texaslumens.com

WE LIVE IN THE LAND OF THE FREE ONLY BECAUSE OF THE BRAVE!

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Built another Eagle eye X6 triple XP-L, and an X6 with single XP-L, and squeezed in a small led voltmeter in a Liitokala Lii100 charger to fast check my batteries voltage.

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Thanks TL. Your ears must have been burning. Smile

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

lostheplot
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Honestly I wasn’t that worried about crashing. Another way is to position the cutter on the back side of the work piece, set the chuck in reverse and work away from the chuck.

but only if you want a left hand thread or you have a upside down tool..

sorry all images down
thanks photobucket

pinkpanda3310
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Hehe for left hand thread tool is on the near side, chuck spinning normal and lead screw working away from the chuck.

One of my first attempts at threading ended up being left hand thread. Facepalm

Need to be attentive with this stuff Glasses

  

BobbyMK
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Did some LED swaps today, removed the XML2 U3 3D from the Convoy M1 and installed XPL V6 3D there because this one has lower Vf, U3 was pulling only 3.9A from 30Q, the XPL is running at 5.5A with fresh 30Q.

Then i opened my S1 Baton, removed the stock led, and reflowed the U3 3D that i removed from the M1, this little guy was pain to open without damaging it, but slow and steady did it, now i can enjoy my favorite tint in the S1, yay Smile

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

-X3-
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BobbyMK wrote:
Did some LED swaps today, removed the XML2 U3 3D from the Convoy M1 and installed XPL V6 3D there because this one has lower Vf, U3 was pulling only 3.9A from 30Q, the XPL is running at 5.5A with fresh 30Q.

Then i opened my S1 Baton, removed the stock led, and reflowed the U3 3D that i removed from the M1, this little guy was pain to open without damaging it, but slow and steady did it, now i can enjoy my favorite tint in the S1, yay Smile


So, what was your tool of choice to open that tiny S1 ?

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

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M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

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Nothing special, started with thin razor blade, and then progressively worked my way up until i had enough gap to put the sharp edge of a Sanrenmu 710 in there, after that was easy, just pry the bezel ring and try not to scratch the anodizing or that lovely blue colored bezel Big Smile

Razor was this kind, don’t know how they are called in English Smile

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

-X3-
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Yeah well that’s what I used when I opened mine too, for those of you who didn’t see it here is a video :

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

MRsDNF
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pinkpanda3310 wrote:
Hehe for left hand thread tool is on the near side, chuck spinning normal and lead screw working away from the chuck.

One of my first attempts at threading ended up being left hand thread. Facepalm

Need to be attentive with this stuff Glasses


Very nicely done. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

mattlward
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I finally got around to finishing an S2+ today.

The driver is my first H17f. I like the program options, but do not like the lack of reverse… Not sure it will stay in it. I used one of the new screw mount copper pills from Hoop. I love it! For the LED I used my standard XM-L2 4C Noctigon mounted, love the tint on this one.

Results… not as hot as I expected… 2.93 amps at the tailcap. But, overall nice light. Have not tested the pid function yet. Oh, flame treated ss pocket clip as well.

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

dentillozie
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I did not exactly did this today.
It also isnt a flashlight, its a laser but i thing some of you guys might like it.

i made a rebuild of a 660nm laser to a 1W 638nm and filmed it.

Link to youtube video

Enjoy!

DenTilloZie

EU based flashlight modder. If you need any modding work done, make sure to PM me!

some of my mods:

- convoy meLd 4

XHP50 Maglite Mod

UF-1405 Mod

TK35 (clone) to TK35UE

BobbyMK
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X3 wrote:
Yeah well that’s what I used when I opened mine too, for those of you who didn’t see it here is a video :

Exactly the same tools, lol Smile Haven’t seen the video until now but i guess we had the same idea and it works Smile

 Olight i3s, Olight S1, Olight S Mini, JetBeam Jet-1, BLF 348, Astrolux S41S, UF SK-98, Convoy S2+ 3*XP-G2, Convoy S2+ 3*XPL, Convoy S2+ 219CT, Convoy M1, Convoy C8, Brinyte B158, Courui D01, Convoy L6, Noctigon M43

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Just received this ZHISHUNJIA Mini Flashlight 3 mode.

http://www.dx.com/p/zhishunjia-mini-cree-xp-e-r2-6500k-200lm-3-mode-whit...

It’s the brightest and easy to use $5 light I’ve seen.

I fabricated a “dummy battery” charging lead to utilize the charging port on the light. The charging lead is also used to check the existing battery voltage without opening the light.

 photo FLsm_zpsjjemn5uz.jpg

pilotdog68
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whopist wrote:
Just received this ZHISHUNJIA Mini Flashlight 3 mode.

http://www.dx.com/p/zhishunjia-mini-cree-xp-e-r2-6500k-200lm-3-mode-whit...

It’s the brightest and easy to use $5 light I’ve seen.

I fabricated a “dummy battery” charging lead to utilize the charging port on the light. The charging lead is also used to check the existing battery voltage without opening the light.

 photo FLsm_zpsjjemn5uz.jpg


Cool. If you plan to use the light a lot you could splice some wires and a TP4056 charger board (or similar) and have a single wire with USB on one end, a charger in the middle, and that little adapter plug on the other end.
putting together convenient charging options is quite fun.

I think my favorite was whoever did the Listerine strips charger. Was is 4wheeler? Can’t remember now

My Favorite Modded Lights: X6R, S8 , X2R , M6, SP03

Major Projects:  Illuminated Tailcap, TripleDown/TripleStack Driver

vulpes
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whopist wrote:
Just received this ZHISHUNJIA Mini Flashlight 3 mode.

http://www.dx.com/p/zhishunjia-mini-cree-xp-e-r2-6500k-200lm-3-mode-whit...

It’s the brightest and easy to use $5 light I’ve seen.

I fabricated a “dummy battery” charging lead to utilize the charging port on the light. The charging lead is also used to check the existing battery voltage without opening the light.


What do you say about host quality, shelf or pill, is it mod friendly?
whopist
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I think this $5 light could become my favorite pocket light.

Looks good, feels good, and switch is conveniently located. The shape of light makes it easy to find switch and you can rotate clip to put it where you want.
The clip is secure; attaches to denim seams and pocket shirts equally well.

Took the lens off for cleaning but haven’t been inside pill head. It looks easy to dissemble though.

I don’t like user interface. Spec’s say forward clicky. It is a nice firm click to turn on high – click again to go to low – click again to go to rapid flash – and click again to turn off. (no half press)

Charge port is live with battery voltage all the time (off or on). I plan to use the port and save my threads.

Bought this $5 light to get the host; but, like it so much I’m having second thoughts.

Hope this helps!

vulpes
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Thanks! I have found it on Ali for $3, so I’ll get one see how I like it.

whopist
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Great!
Keep us posted

-X3-
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BobbyMK wrote:
X3 wrote:
Yeah well that’s what I used when I opened mine too, for those of you who didn’t see it here is a video :

Exactly the same tools, lol Smile Haven’t seen the video until now but i guess we had the same idea and it works Smile


If you want to mod the S2 (I don’t know if you have one), here is a video as well :

"-X3-, is there any place in your house without a flashlight ?" 

My Flashlight public album (mods, emitter swaps, eye candy)

My reviews channel (French language, Olight, Thorfire, Sofirn, Lumintop : 60+ lights tested)

My personal channel (including Olight SR mini, S1, S2, S1A and S-mini disassembly)

M4DM4X blog, saves you $$$ 

DB Custom
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Due to the arrival of the new little half cells (26350) I did some shuffling around between a couple of Convoy lights.

I had the L6 with XHP-70 and a 2 cell tube for 2 26650’s and a tactical ring, the stock light with an output bump to some 4600 lumens. I also already had an L2 with XP-L and Bistro driver, single 26650 cell tube. So today I got busy and did some swapping and modifications such that the L6 now has a single cell length tube with 2 of the 26350 cells, the tail cap is off my L2 and has been bored to allow an 26700 cell to fit, perfect for working with 2 26350’s.

So now the L6 with it’s larger head has the appearance of the L2 in short form. Love it!

Then I modified an LD-2 driver for the L-2 light, put an E4 1D XHP-35 in it with the 2 cell tube from the L6 so it holds 4 of the 26350 cells. These little cells are 2000mAh in capacity, so now the 12V emitter is taking some 2.8A and I’ll still have close to an hour run time and great throw, but considerably more lumens over the XP-L in this light. I have all 6 of the short cells on the charger now so I can get some readings.

Pretty neat that my big Convoy is now the small one and my small Convoy is now the big one. lol Confusing though, I know. lol

Edit: The charged 26350’s did a tail current of 3.13A to the XHP-35 E4 1D HD emitter for 2986 lumens and 170.25Kcd at over 800M throw, I’ll take it! Smile

Mr.Poppy
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Convoy S2+ 4C tint, lighted tailcap with 2 red LEDs, and FET driver

Light Own: Convoy S2+ 4C FET, BLF X6v2, BLF Q8, BLF LT1, WildTrail D80v2, Convoy L6 TA Narsil, BLF GT, BLF-348, Convoy S2+ 18350 Nichia 219BT, Astrolux A01, Olight I3E tan
Gifted Away: Convoy C8+ Sand 4C FET, Pelican 2350, BLF D80 (due to flicker), BLF A6 (due to green tint), BLF X5
Built/Modded: EE X6 FET SST-40 N4 6500K dedomed, Two EE X6 FET XP-L HI V2 3A, Two Convoy C8+ Sand 4C + FET

MtnDon
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BobbyMK wrote:
X3 wrote:
Yeah well that’s what I used when I opened mine too, for those of you who didn’t see it here is a video :

Exactly the same tools, lol Smile Haven’t seen the video until now but i guess we had the same idea and it works Smile

I had no idea that had a press fit (and adhesive?) bezel. Do the other model Olights also have a press fit? Or do some have threaded bezels? If screw in, which ones?

Thanks.

mattlward
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Not really a light… but I added magnets and a meter to one of my Lii 100’s. Love these things!

20160816_185526

EDC rotation:
FW1A, LH351D 4000k (second favorite)
FW3A, LH351D 3500k
FW3A, SST20 FD2 4000k
FW3A, Nichia 4000k sw40 r9080 (favorite light!)
FW3A, Cree XP-L Hi 5A3
Emisar D4V2, SST20 4000k

MRsDNF
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Nice mod with the charger. Thumbs Up

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

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