I recently bought the torch from the DX bums, it didn't work from the first go, it flickers and switches on and off like a slow strobe.
Emailed DX multiple times but they didn't bother to reply, so opened a dispute with paypal and a claim which I won, (paypal were brilliant), and got a refund.
The sad thing is, the torch is EXACTLY what I wanted, .......
single mode, good lumens, twist on, and weighty.
Can anyone recommend someone in the UK willing to repair??, (for a fee of course)
Secondly, I can't seem to find a review of the QS-BG88 anywhere, anybody on the forum got one
Start with diagnosing the tailcap. Remove it and see if you can get it to light up consistently touching a paper clip from -B to the end of the body tube.
I know... its a dive submersible light with a twisty cap. You could still have an intermittent contact even with a click-less twisty. That light does not conduct -B through the tailcap threads, so the -B end of the body tube needs to bottom-down against the machined Al in the tailcap.
So you still you need to follow a similar methodology to root cause it down.
Start with the tailcap off and paperclip trick, its a 5 minute test... post back with your results from that.
OK next take the bezel off and remove the reflector... does it still strobe-flicker without the reflector? You should be able to run the emitter wide open, and operate the modes, on-off (etc) without the reflector dish.
Yeah, did that, but wouldnt work at all, then found that the plate holding the LED was loose, so tightened it and put it all back together, turned it on, 0k for about 6-8 seconds, then started flickering again and strobing at about 1 second intervals.
-Light flickers with tailcap paperclip by-passed. = Not a tailcap problem
-Light flickers with LED "pill" screwed in tight, without reflector. = Not a reflector short, not a lose pill.
You mention it worked fine for a few seconds and then continued to strobe at 1 second intervals. It sounds like it could be a low-voltage warning. An intermittent contact will not disrupt power like that at exact timed intervals. Are you certain your cells are fully charged? If you have access to a multimeter, now is the time to use it and measure cell voltage. Curious what cells are you using?
Thinking ahead...If your 26650/18650 cells check out OK then its something inside the pill. Either a defective driver, or faulty wiring/connections inside. I have seen LED wires cut into from sharp machined edges in the pill and create a short. Theres also the possibility the DC-DC board is poorly soldered to the pill. Or it could be poorly soldered wires between the LED and DC-DC board. I would be surprised if its a defective LED... but it shouldn't be ruled out.
Can you unscrew the pill and post up some clear pictures of it?... I want to take a look at how the LED is attached and how DC-DC board is soldered to the pill.
i've had issues where several seconds of flickering warmed up a part enough to make a tighter fit (ie good ground) and then the light worked fine
maybe this is similar, but in reverse...heat is expanding something enough to lose solid ground, which the driver could be 'misreading' as a battery condition
