XP-G R5 @ 2.1 amps!?

Yesterday when I got home the mail contained everyones favorite manilla envelope. This particular one contained a bunch of goodies from Solarforce.

As I was playing with my new Lego lights and drop-ins, I noticed the XP-G 3 mode was unusually bright... This is the .8-4.2v drop-in. I took some tailcap measurements with various battery configurations, and this is what I got:

Tailcap mesurements recorded after 30sec:

18650: 2.1a!

3xAAA enelopes: 1.13a

1xIMR 16340: 2a

2xAA eneloops: 700ma

3xaaa Alk:1.3a

I'm not sure what driver is going into these drop-ins, but wow... I know the general consensus is 1.5a max for an XP-G but I found no angry blue light nor excess heat. Doing a few impromptu comparisons with my MG P-Rocket XP-G, I noticed it was definately brighter during ceiling bounce, white wall test, and outdoor use. So...what's the deal. Have we been gimping our xpg's all along or is this just a factory freak? Granted, the max time I've run it at has been @30min on high (head/body definately warm, but not hot). I'm curious to see if anyone else has had an experience like this.

Sounds like you got a good one ... Be happy , smile a little !

I had one @ 2.2A , turned blue , and started emitting smoke ...... I think your's is better .

Search carefully at forolinternas and you can see and xpg-r5 drawing 2,8A!!!!!

Of course this current draw will destroy the led. First it will turn blue or separate from star

I just measured mine with 2XAA about the same as yours and with 3XAA nimh 1.2 amps. I am still waiting on some 18650 batteries to try. Is yours still doing fine? I am amazed at the brightness this thing can put out from 2XAA barely alive akalines that wont power a Wii remote.

Get a good enough heatsink - a pound or so of copper ought to do it - and some way of getting that heat elsewhere and it might sustain that output. Wouldn't bet on it though. People have been brutally overdriving Crees for years.

I seem to remember reading about someone running XR-Es at 2A - mounted twenty or so of them on a monster fan-cooled heatsink.

So your saying its probably not going to live with a 18650 pulling 2 amps? I was just going to add some alum strips and arctic silver 5 and drop it in my L2i.

2A to the LED is pushing it, they are only rated to 1.5A. It may survive and give a lot of light, it may turn blue as it burns off the phosphor, or it may melt its bond wires. On the other hand, 2A from the cell doesn't necessarily mean 2A is getting to the LED.

I got some r5 p60 flashlights form KD time ago and the r5 were driven at 2A. Crazy bright. For safety i ditched the drivers and used another.

Wow...old thread. I almost forgot about this one. Pertaining to my particular solarforce drop-in:

-Yes, it's still alive with a steady diet of 18650 goodness

-Yes, it's bright, brighter than my MG P-Rocket

-Yes, it's wearing a copper sleeve in my L2i

-No, I don't expect it to last as long as one at 1.5a...could last a few years, could burn up tonight...

My attitude towards possibly breaking a torch have drastically changed since then. Now, I kinda look foward to the potential for upgrades.

As always, YMMV (in other words, over 2a to an xp-g isn't something I'd really endorse...)

Data bank 70- 70 EZ900 top bin XRE's with AR coated top quality aspheric lenses- Oh yeah!

See right here for XPG testing: http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?310522-Why-a-good-thermal-path-really-matters

Of course, these are all highly modded XPG's, without MCPCB's, soldered to copper. saabuster has pretty much removed most of his XPG's pads and soldered that onto a heatpipe-not really comparable to an XPG P60 dropin on a crappy MCPCB.

Thankd for the good read. I had to try myself to redo the thermal path of a few drop-ins since i always felt those were made in a hurry.

Okay I just measured mine with one Trustfire flame 14500 fully charged and got just a little over 1.4 amps. Since Match's pulled 2 amps from a 16340 am I right in guessing mine may be a different driver and should probably pull right around the 1.5 amp mark with an 18650? Or could the 16340 battery just have lower resistance and just flow more juice than my 14500?

I was using a sanyo 18650 non-protected, not a 16340…

What leads were you using to test?

You had in your original post 2.1 amps on 18650 and 2.0 amps on IMR 16340. I was comparing to it since they were close to mah rating if it makes any difference. I am just checking amperage with tailcap removed between battery and body tube with Fluke 78 meter. If the switch is included that could make a difference too.

Ah yup, I forgot that I tested it with an imr 16340. Sounds like we tested the same....I used a Fluke 77 with tailcap removed.

I have a theory about overdrived leds , after that the overdrided led lost part of his original flux, like a bin or two.

That's was what happened with an XM-L after a brief 5A treatment , still this diode give a lot of light but not reach the levels reached before the test.Of course if if wasn't because this led were all wired in a test never I would never have noticed it.

Now I have a virgin XP-G R5 and two which belong to; one overdrived torch, G10 at 2.1A and other from the UF P10 which was working at 1A ...this weekend I'll see what's up....

When I was newer to this, I wanted an XP-G drop-in, and unwisely ended up getting a combo 501B with XP-G from KD. I say unwisely b/c in retrospect, I should've ordered what I wanted, as the host is 'ok' but not really recommendable for various off-topic reasons. To be honest, I got it because it was $13, and was less for the combo than they were selling just the drop-in alone at DX. Anyway, I was surprised (not really shocked) to see the thing draw 2.0 - 2.1 amps at the tailcap, exactly like yours. Haven't noticed any issues yet. I HAVE experienced LED dimming (over time) in an XR-E headlamp which had literally no heatsinking, just a star mounted to a PCB, encased in plastic, right in front of the batteries.

But see the point below:

I realize that's probably very right, even if it's on 'direct drive'... it's still going through that driver. Even 'efficient' (expensive) drivers are--what, 80%, 90% efficient? Even if this thing was 75% efficient, that'd still only be 1.5A getting to the LED... which is right at Cree's new rated max. However, more things depend on that than ratings: particularly heat management. I ended up thermally potting mine a bit with DX thermal glue, though there didn't seem to be a problem with short runs, and didn't do long runs.

The XP-G really converted me to Cree's new 'luxury' line, and I was even more proportionally impressed with the XM-L (not so much with XP-E).

The main problem with that drop-in was the small emitter hole in the refelctor--which, ironically, seemed to have been designed actually FOR the XP-G, yet didn't let enough light out. I actually ruined several rotary attachments boring out the aluminum, only to discover in retrospect that the ideal opening, was the exact same diameter that XR-E reflectors use! There are a lot of XP-G hosts out there crippled by an overly-small emitter hole, which is also too far forward. I'd say my light output doubled, especially spill, when I put on the XR-E reflector.

Further thoughts: that tint was hella COLD, which I could never get over. STRANGE thing was--there wasn't a hint of blue! But I've never seen such cold, yet NON-blue white in my life. Guess that's what I get for bottomfeeding, which made me learn to more carefully choose things based on feedback, and not lottery. I now also realize there was a some of a 'sweatshop' quality to the whole KD package I got (including the 501B host) which makes me feel guilty now that I saw the 'Chinese spark plug factory' thread.

2.0 amps at the tailcap... would like to see one of our more techy members here do a test at the LED (which i have no idea how to do). Nevermind if you have to destroy the thing to do the test. My guess is if it's overdriven, it's probably by a little, but not that much. I think LED's partly limit current naturally too. Like when people replace an XR-E with something better, and suddenly the driver is pulling more. (But I'm not an expert there.)

Solarforce R&D driver circuit to protect Li-ion battery from over-discharging --- This is off of Solarforce's description page for the .8 to 4.2 volt 3mode XPG drop in. How does this work on such a low voltage drop in? Does it sense a 3.7 volt+ battery and automatically switch into some special mode?

My Uniquefire L2 XPG-R5 pulled 1,9A at the tailcap with a freshly charged 18650, and this is what happened to the led when i used it as a bikelight on the way to work:

In that flashlight i have put an XML-T6 5-mode drop in from DX, it does not drive the led to the maximum current, but it will last a lot longer and it is brighter than the XPG-R5 at 1,9A. I have filled the gap between the drop in and the flashlight-body with aluminium of a beercan.

This is the drop-in that replaced the XPG-R5: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/cree-xml-t6-5-mode-6700k-450-lumen-smooth-aluminum-drop-in-module-with-textured-reflector-55026