My latest pride/joy

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Joined: 02/16/2011 - 22:07
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brjones wrote:

Tas62 wrote:

brjones wrote:

Which thread on 'the Manafont drop-ins'?

This thread

Thanks for the link. That's a thread by one person who got an improperly assembled one. I don't see how it can be construed as a potential problem with the entire line, as implied by a different poster. I received my second one about the same day Haggai started this thread above, and mine was fine, if having more blue or purple in the spill than my older example. Both of them are my favorites among my 5 drop-ins and at least 4 other non-dropin flashlights.


I don't think high mode is for long runs. But it sure is nice to have that brightness for a short time when you need it. If I go past 2 or 3 minutes on high (rare), I'll drop it to medium. The sag you get at that point, plus the drain on the battery (from heat and/or battery voltage sag), make it of little point to continue in High mode anyway, so I don't understand the concerns (there is little temptation for a level-headed user to continue in high).


This is the first LED light I have where the infrared heat coming out of the front is very noticeable if you hold it close to your hand. If you let any flashlight run at 1+ amp for a long time, it's going to get hot, it's just a matter of how long it'll take. Just have to be reasonable and use Medium and Low (or turn the light off/switch to another) when appropriate.


Lights which are built for professional use, to run long amounts of time, I think are sometimes referred-to as "duty" lights. Mag Light was the original common duty light; 4sevens has their Maelstrom XM-L for $150 with just 2 modes. Incandescent actually isn't a bad idea for duty lights, because the infra-red gets ejected out the front, and those bulbs like heat (until they burn out from the same, lol). I think duty lights will also be big and use C size batteries at a minimum.


Despite all the inherent weaknesses of the P60 drop-in design, the great thing about the Manafont drop-in is that everyone gets the same great output, whether they're re-using a crusty old 504b host, or putting it in a swanky new L2p. Quality of batteries will have a bigger effect on light output than anything else here. That, and whether your switch holds up. My XM-L drop-ins have killed 2 switches so far: the one from my L2, and my 504b. Surprisingly, my $3 Dealextreme "replacement tailcap", which I held as a backup for just such a purpose, is still working well--for the moment anyway. Some beefier switches are soon on the way. Others have tried to contradict my experience since they haven't experienced the same, saying it must be something else, but it's definitely the switches (working fine again after changing switches).


My TD15X is my only LED light I can feel infrared coming out of. But my high output incand against my arm vs it is like comparing a Nuke to a vinegar and baking powder mixture.... 

photon1k's picture
Last seen: 4 years 8 months ago
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Location: Lotus Land, Canada

You want the flashlight head and body to get hot. Your foil/tape/aluminun can is intended to transfer heat from the drop-in to the light's body. You should be concerned if running an XM-L on high with a good driver and your light's head/body is not getting very warm or hot, depending on run time.

Thanks for the photos Flashlight Foy - very nice.Laughing

Last seen: 9 years 8 months ago
Joined: 03/15/2011 - 11:31
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Location: Houston

Flashlight Foy wrote:

For what it's worth; since I've improved my aluminum foil wrapping technique, it does feel noticeably less hot.

Care to share how you've improved your wrapping technique ... maybe some snapshots?  Getting real close to ordering a l2p with an Ultrafire XM-L, and I know its going to require some good wrapping.  TIA!

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Location: Las Vegas

As I understand it, you want that heat to go from the flashlight body to your body - to wick the heat into your hand.  The heat you feel, used to be in the flashlight, now it's in you.  Man, I'm always the last to figure stuff out.


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