small sun zy-t13: aspheric xre (200k+ lux!!!) back from the dead!

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Pulsar
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small sun zy-t13: aspheric xre (200k+ lux!!!) back from the dead!

got my zy-t13 today. bought this light basically to make the best thrower i can afford for the money.

heres a list of what i plan to do:

  1. resistor/pot mod
  2. crelant collimator head
  3. make it a 1×18650/2xrcr123a
  4. emitter swap/dedome

i am going to need some help with certain parts of this, so i thought i would start my own thread to ask questions as i go. resistor mod will be easy, i already have a stash of resistors and pots from ecig mods thats not getting used so ill skip that question. and the collimator head, again no questions there


so lets get to getting this thing a shorty. i already know that the 7g2cs tube is a great fit. it will be $29 shipped for the tube and switch. i have also contacter a well known member around here with mad skills, and i can get the stock tube cut down and threaded. but the stock tube has bad threads, so id like to find a replacement
anyone with the zy-t13, crelant 7g5cs, 7g2cs or v9cs able to check if they have any other single 18650 tube that will fit them from a budget host?

after i get the other 3 steps done, i will get to the emitter options

thanks in advance to anyone offering help

update: it now has the crelant collimator head, and a unknown bin xre ez900 in it.
look here for a little more info

Edited by: Pulsar on 05/30/2013 - 15:23
Pulsar
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ok i mine as well ask this now too.
im not up on all the physics using aspherics. i dont know if dedoming would even have any effect with it. not sure if swapping to another emitter would change the focal point. i know xre was a go to for throwers, but not sure if that has changed since the new crees…

i was thinking either go with an xre or an xml2. but ill ask the experts, and take what advice is given.


using the collimator head, would changing the emitter mess up the focal point? if not what emitter would be the best bet for a budget minded thrower? de dome with an aspheric make any differance?

DARCANGEL
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Pulsar,consider the fact that you want to run it on 1 cell and it may not work right.I know for sure if you decide an emitter swap,you won't be able to use xre,xpg or xpc due to the stock amps being too much for those emitters not bonded to copper.Just some stuff to think about and I have tried to make mine a shorty host with no luck.The closest solution I had was to get a shadow TC-500 1x18650 tube,but I can't verify if threads will work.Just my opinion,get an XML2 in there with a resistor mod and aspheric which will get you a nice fat throw beam.I modded mine to MTG2 and it's a flood monster,so I plan to get another for aspheric mod.

Pulsar
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On a single cell, the tail current is 1.89a, on two cells its at .88a. I’ve played with it a bit with my 7g2cs tube on it, but I don’t want to keep swapping them.
Edit: looks like a monster just as a shorty, can’t imagine how bad she will look with the collimator head on

DARCANGEL
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Pulsar wrote:
On a single cell, the tail current is 1.89a, on two cells its at .88a. I've played with it a bit with my 7g2cs tube on it, but I don't want to keep swapping them.
Seems a bit low with 2 cell,I can't remember my stock output but single cell amps would work fine with xre or xrc.Either of those emitters will give you a nice laser like beam.TBH the .88 amps will be a little underdriven if you want a decent preformer.The other issue you have to tackle is the focal length of the aspheric head of the crelant,even though it fits you might have to mess with the distance from emitter to lens.
Pulsar
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Yeah, I got a few pots and a bunch of resistors to take care of the driver. And I’m hoping the focal length is close enough that the adjustments on the head will handle it.

Now testing amps at the emitter, can I just check it with my meter, or should I remove the emitter before testing? Don’t want to prematurely kill anything

DARCANGEL
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I'll watch this thread to see how you do because I'm curious about the focal length of the crelant head.GL edit:incorrect advice removed.

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Thanks, I’ll make sure I update on all I do to it. From the looks I will end up with the crelant battery tube and switch for $29, but I’m going to get the head first. Just waiting on eBay to release my funds.
Put the ea4 on hold for a while since I think later batches will fix the small issues with it.

Now looking at it, I’ll have about $100 in to this, $70 not counting the battery tube… So I hope I get some good numbers in the end.
I could have just saved up and got something pre built for $100, but I tend to be bad at saving up. And its fun building and having something one of a kind

JohnnyMac
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I wish you great luck with this, Pulsar.  I've always wanted to make a T13 into a single cell shorty.  Would make for one super sexy light IMO. Wink

Pulsar
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I’ll get a pic up later. It is

nottawhackjob
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Then do an Old-Lumen jobbie at the splice? Any decent lathe guy can open up the inside main half while turning down the tail cap end on the outside.

Done me thinks.

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

Pulsar
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I already know I can get it done, but the threads that attach to the head are crap and that part is a hexagon shape. That and between shipping and the lathe work and Crap threads, I’m almost better off getting the crelant tube

nottawhackjob
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Ok. Can they be re-chased to get them back to good?

“In many things in order to truly understand the small picture you have to understand the big picture first.”

True Color Rendition (TCR)/Simplified Definition: “On a scale of 1 to 10, with 10 being the highest rating, a TCR will equate to what true colors you see in sunlight vs the same object’s colors you see when illuminated with a flashlight. The closer the two are, the higher the TCR rating will be.”

The TCR Reference Standard is the Walmart Ozark Trail OT 50L , Model No. 6103.
It has a TCR rating of ‘10’. $1.00 including batteries.

Pulsar
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I don’t think so, it would just make them looser and be more likely to strip out

Pulsar
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well fell asleep earlier than usual last night… but heres some pics

this is the zy-t13 and 7g2cs side by side

and here is the shorty zy-t13

i think shes damn good looking myself

Rusty Joe
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Yes! That’s a handsome little guy!

Running 2 x RCR123s, you may notice sagging with a lot of use. I don’t think it’d be that bad though.

Pulsar
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I’m planning on running just 1 18650, but I’ll have to wait and see until I do some more testing with it. Seems to work atleast as good as two, but I may be wrong. Want to check amps at the emitter too.

I think it’s a pretty Damn good looking light as a shorty too. But everything but the part that holds the pill, driver and side switch will be crelant parts… So maybe I should have just bought a 7g5cs? Lol. Working on a deal for a collimator head, tailcap and battery tube right now. Hope to work something out

Pulsar
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blind now… but amps at the emitter read something like 5.6a with two cells. that dont seem right??

scaru
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Pulsar wrote:
blind now... but amps at the emitter read something like 5.6a with two cells. that dont seem right??

On mine I measured 3.1 amps at the emitter. How are you measuring it? I'm going to guess you are just shorting it and you didn't desolder the LED wires?

Pulsar
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yup, that would be the way… once i made contact the leds output dropped to barely nothing

scaru
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Pulsar, you are just shorting it. You need to desolder one of the wires to the LED and then wire the DMM in series with the LED. 

Pulsar
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so just to make sure i got this… id want to desolder the negative from the star and take my readings from the neg pad to the neg return wire?

scaru
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Pulsar wrote:
so just to make sure i got this... id want to desolder the negative from the star and take my readings from the neg pad to the neg return wire?

Yep. 

Pulsar
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any thing else to say to the questions in the first two posts? Silly pretty sure im just going to go with the crelant battery tube unless i can find a cheap host with good threads… but im not sure about the best emitter with the optics ill be using, or dedoming with aspherics…

scaru
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Pulsar wrote:
any thing else to say to the questions in the first two posts? Silly pretty sure im just going to go with the crelant battery tube unless i can find a cheap host with good threads... but im not sure about the best emitter with the optics ill be using, or dedoming with aspherics...

The XR-E is still the best for aspherics, not the quite the highest surface brightness but it does have a narrower emittance angle. The focal point will not change depending on LED (i don't think so) and de-doming will increase throw. 

Pulsar
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nice. actually have an xre on a star thats not in anything right now. im not worried about max lumens with this, im looking for max throw. and i wasnt sure if any of the newer emitters knocked the xre out yet.

viffer750
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Pulsar wrote:
any thing else to say to the questions in the first two posts? Silly pretty sure im just going to go with the crelant battery tube unless i can find a cheap host with good threads... but im not sure about the best emitter with the optics ill be using, or dedoming with aspherics...

How do you know, that the crelant collimator will fit to this light, and the focal point will be good? That's a lottery.

I'm just set the driver current to 1.4-1.5A and put a dedomed emitter in the light, and I'm happy with the 88kcd now. Eventually a same size asperical throws better than a reflector, but you loose a lot of flood lights. And it requires much more work and time ...

here are some spot beamshots I hope you can choose, which is the best for you:

1/1600, iso100, f2.8

 

t13 with modded driver 1.4A  tailcap current , with a dedomed T6 xm-l, 88kcd

it is not so greenish in reality, the wallpaper is green, and the camera white balance is crap

3

 

t13 with orig driver 1ampere tc current, 36Kcd

1

 

t13 with modded driver 1.4A tc current, 44kcd

2

 

xr-e R2 at 1.2A + 66mm aspherical, 120kcd

4

 

xm-l T6 at 3A+ 66mm aspherical,  70-80kcd

5

 

dedomed xm-l T6 at 3A+ 66mm aspherical, 130-140kcd

6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

unique engrish language... Smile

 

Pulsar
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There’s a thread on here that says it fits and works fine. If it needs to be tweaked a little I’m sure it will get it figured out. Pretty sure I’m going to go with an xre for it. The square hotspot don’t bother me, and I’m trying to get as much throw as possible http://budgetlightforum.com/node/16457

Doesn’t specify that it is perfectly focused, but yes yes it works just fine.

viffer750
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Ahh, okay, I think you should try a dedomed xm-l with the crelant aspherical.
Or with a xm-l2? Unfortunately I have no experience with it yet.

unique engrish language... Smile

 

Pulsar
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I was debating an xml2 dedomed, but I’m not sure if its possible..? If it is I may do that.

Pulsar
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just an update:
got some funds and tomorrow i will be ordering a 7g2cs battery tube, tail cap, and a 7g5cs collimator head. all they had was gray battery tubes, so the hole host will be gray, with just the center driver/emitter/switch housing being black. hope it looks ok.
not sure if im crazy or not… but the hole lot will be $50 shipped for new parts. twice what i spent on the zy-t13 Cash but its what i want, and i cant find another battery tube to fit it

havent got around to doing the driver mod yet. the hot spot with it is much more intense than my c108 with nanj 2.8a driver in it, so i want to check amps at the emitter still before i change anything. been reading up on dedome xml, and it seems like its a little more involved than i originally thought also

edit: and now after thinking about it for 5 more mins after thinking about it for 2 days, i may just get a black collimator head and wait til i can find a black, or even stainless tube that will fit…

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