ruffles' handbuilt diy contest monstrosity -- DONE! (Whew!)

36 posts / 0 new
Last post

Pages

ruffles
ruffles's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/09/2011 - 10:18
Posts: 1020
Location: California
ruffles' handbuilt diy contest monstrosity -- DONE! (Whew!)

Lotsa pics to follow (mostly of burned parts and wounds, I suspect), but here's a start.

This DIY build is supposed to be an area floodlight, driven by Dewalt 18 volt (19.2 when fully charged) powertool batteries. 

Since I've got 5 Nichia 219 emitters and some sinkpads (thanks Nitro!) kicking around, I thought those could be the base. I'm sure I'll have fun learning how to combine the two.

 

Now, I'm frankly embarrassed that my electrical knowledge is so poor, but I figure asking questions is the way to learn. So my first Q: can I direct drive 5 Nichias in series with 19.2v? (reading the datasheet, the vf seems to be between 3 and 3.5v) The math seems to suggest 6, and I can always get more from IS, but I'm sorta hoping that the 5 I have can work. Does direct drive possibly push more current than the nichias can deal with?

If I'm totally off track and I need a buck driver and to run the leds in parallel, any suggestions? Efficiency isn't that big a concern, as I've got lots of batteries and lots of housing to drain heat with.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

  


 

Edited by: ruffles on 07/14/2013 - 21:53
ruffles
ruffles's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/09/2011 - 10:18
Posts: 1020
Location: California

A few photos of some of the stuff that’s gonna get victimized for this build… (not to sound like Stalin’s apologist, but you’ve gotta break some eggs to make an omelette)

So, a little bit of threaded aluminum:

A busted charger, and a soon to be plundered tripod:

Some resistors (thanks, Ohaya; I feel like I’m actually learning something here) and switches:

More random stuff: emitters, sinkpads, lexan (perspex for some), aluminum that I’m not looking forward to cutting by hand:

Last but not least, that little bit of threaded aluminum with a little something for size reference:

(Although my inner cheapskate resented having to buy that, I feel like it might be the best 12 bucks ever.)

Thanks again to Ohaya for the excellent resistor math below… it was super helpful.


 

ruffles
ruffles's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/09/2011 - 10:18
Posts: 1020
Location: California

So, I got started messing with stuff yesterday… here’s a few pics and comments.

One very long 1.5” × 1.5” bar of aluminum. Sadly, the wrong length, and since we’re in hand-tool-only land, I have a very sore tricep in exchange for 14 minutes of hacksaw work.

Putting a hole in the end. Glad we could use cordless drills.

1/4-20 threaded insert… I was too lazy (and didn’t have the right size tap) to do otherwise.

Banged in with a bunch of JB Weld at the bottom.

So that short-ish hunk of aluminum will take 5 Nichia emitters and tir-type optics. To hold them in place, I figured some plexiglass on the front would work well. (Otherwise, it’d be a gooey mess of silicone, and that didn’t seem quite right.) I had some crazy box section aluminum that I thought I could cut a couple of bits off of to make a glorified L-bracket. Like so:

I made a fancy miter box so I could once again tire myself out cut nice miters.

Only problem was, it was way too time consuming to try break it apart without destroying the L-bracket that I wanted. I spent some time trying to cut a groove in each bit that needed to come off and then clamping the #$%@ out of it, but that just plain didn’t work.

Back to the metal dealer… you’ll have to visit again to see what transpired.

—————————————————————
Update:

Well, the contest is drawing to a close, and I was pretty sure I wasn’t gonna make the cut. However, here’s how it came out.

The earlier idea with the aluminum section really didn’t work, so I found some copper that I figured could work as a spacer between the lexan and the hunk of aluminum.

A little bit of work (okay, a h$%# of a lot!) involved in making nice miters.

Clamped up and ready to cook with the old butane torch.

But wait — what was I thinking? Clamping copper onto a massive heatsink and then trying to sweat it was not going to work. So plan B: do them one at a time.

So with that done, I could enjoy a little hand tapping action in the hunk of aluminum housing the emitters.

Oh carp! Broken hand tap. (And if you’ve ever tried drilling those out, you know that’s a non-starter.) I considered a few options (including giving up entirely and getting drunk), but in the end, flipped the darn thing over and started again.

Done! (The red that you see is silicone baking sheet, smooth both sides, to give me an extra couple of millimeters height.)

Ready to reflow some Nichia 219s onto Nitro’s sinkpads. This was my first time and the contest end was looming, so I was a bit nervous. Thanks to some good advice from here about solder paste, everything went smoothly. (I particularly loved how the emitter would suck itself perfectly into place when everything melted.)

The top one was my first, and you can see I used a little too much paste… the rest turned out nicer.

So, a couple of round bits of plywood for the top and the bottom… I couldn’t find my coping saw, so cut straight and whacked away at them with a chisel for a bit. Very satisfying and slightly time-consuming.

The item formerly known as ‘broken Dewalt charger’ is now chopped up, and its circuit board depopulated.

Top of the charger stuck onto the plywood, which is in turn stuck into the mega aluminum coupler. (Actually, I don’t really know what to call that thing. Maybe just BFAT.) There’s a judco switch stuck on the corner of the charger. The innocent tripod mount has been grafted onto the front of the BFAT, and there’s a magicshine cable for power connection in place. (This allows an extension cable…)

Jump ahead to a whole bunch of soldering being done…

This is direct drive, with 7 parallel 22 ohm, 1 watt resistors draining a bit of power. I could go into the math that I butchered from ohaya (thanks again!), but I’d only embarrass myself.

Oooh, money shot!

More posing!

Lexan on the front still needs trimming, but it wouldn’t be ramshackle if I did everything at once, right?

It lights!

Wall shot from a few feet away. I’ll try and do something late tonight, but wanted to get this all mostly up.

And one last shot. Did I mention that it actually lights up? (You experienced modders get this all the time, but it’s still surprising to me.)

So, many thanks to O-L for this contest. I grumbled, I griped. I cursed having to do metalwork by hand. And I enjoyed every bit of it. (Okay, maybe not the broken hand tap…)


 

texaspyro
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 4 months ago
Joined: 04/29/2011 - 12:43
Posts: 4593

Yeah, use 5 leds… we like flaming burnouts around here! J) 6 would be a lot better if you don’t, but 19.2V is in that area where 5 is too few and 6 too many for a direct drive light.

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13456
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

I’d love to help but I’d be leading you up the garden path.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US

To direct-drive 5 emitters in series with a 19.2V battery, you could use a current-limiting resistor in series:

- Assume 3V per emitter, so that’d be 3×5, or 15V.
- So, you need something in series with those that will take a drop of 19.2-15=4.2V.

The Nichia data sheet says “Maximum Forward” current is 1.5 amps, so you want to limit current through the series and the resistor to 1.5 amps.

So, for the current limiting resistor, you want value of R=V/I = 4.2V / 1.5 amps, or 2.8 ohms, or thereabouts.

Since you’ll be putting 1.5 amps through the resistor, power = V * I = 4.2 * 1.5 = 6.3 watts.

So, ideally, you’re going to need a 2.8 ohm resistor that can take 7 watts (rounded up from 6.3) in series with the 5 Nichia emitters, and then you’d be good to go, running them at 1.5 amps.

I don’t know (haven’t looked) if you can get a 2.8 ohm/7 watt resistor off-the shelf, but you maybe get 7 – 1 watt , “X” ohm, resistors instead and put the 7 resistors in parallel (you need to figure out what “X” is). Note that resistors of the same ohmage are usually larger for larger wattage.

Jim

Edit: BTW, those resistors might get warm, so you may need to do something to help them throw off the heat.

Edit2: 7 1 watt resistors in parallel would give you an equivalent of a 2.8xx ohm/7 watt resistor

e.g., 7 of these in parallel: http://www.vetco.net/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8421

Edit3: Better yet http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-W-Watt-20-ohm-20ohm-R-Metal-Film-Resistor-1W-1...

ruffles
ruffles's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/09/2011 - 10:18
Posts: 1020
Location: California

Thanks for the info! I’ll head to Fry’s (electronics supply, for those not in the US) this afternoon and grab a bundle of resistors.

I’m also toying with the idea of a proper driver from taskled.com… we’ll have to see.


 

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US

ruffles wrote:
Thanks for the info! I’ll head to Fry’s (electronics supply, for those not in the US) this afternoon and grab a bundle of resistors.

I’m also toying with the idea of a proper driver from taskled.com… we’ll have to see.

Hi,

If you do direct drive with resistors, keep in mind that the calculations above are “ideal”, i.e., they don’t take into account an already-existant resistances like the switch, the body, etc., so, assuming that there are such resistances, and how large they are, if you use the “theoretical” calculations, you’d end up under-driving the LEDs relative to their maximums. From an engineering standpoint, that’s a good thing, but from a hobbyist, or your standpoint, you may want to/prefer to over-drive the LEDs :), so adjust the values as you see fit.

Jim

ruffles
ruffles's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/09/2011 - 10:18
Posts: 1020
Location: California

… now I actually have to build something with them, right?


 

Foy
Foy's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 years 7 months ago
Joined: 01/02/2011 - 17:56
Posts: 3009
Location: Las Vegas

With the size reference picture, you now have Foy's full attention.

 

bigFoy

No referral links and nothing embedded . . . ever.

                      &nbsp

djozz
djozz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 23 min ago
Joined: 09/07/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 17322
Location: Amsterdam

Since a 219 on a well heatsinked sinkpad appear to give maximum output at about 4.3V  (and survive 4.7V) I see no problem at all in just going direct drive here with this setup with just 3.8V max per emitter.

Rufusbduck
Rufusbduck's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 8 months ago
Joined: 04/04/2012 - 15:34
Posts: 10389
Location: Golden state

3V per might be a little under powered for this fugly monster. 8) Adding another(or more) resistor(s) in parallel will increase the current a bit with each added resistor.

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

FmC
FmC's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 months 3 days ago
Joined: 03/31/2013 - 05:23
Posts: 2197
Location: Brisbane, AU

….just in case??? lol. Shocked

mattthemuppet
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 4 days ago
Joined: 01/04/2012 - 16:20
Posts: 1273
Location: WA

holy cow, that’s not a “little” bit of threaded aluminium, unless that drill pack happens to be one of Ken’s toy batteries!

as for cutting that solid bar of aluminium, good luck Smile I spent about 30min cutting through a bar a bit thinner than that with a jigsaw and metal blade, I shudder to think how long it would have taken by hand.

ruffles
ruffles's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/09/2011 - 10:18
Posts: 1020
Location: California

mattthemuppet wrote:

as for cutting that solid bar of aluminium, good luck Smile I spent about 30min cutting through a bar a bit thinner than that with a jigsaw and metal blade, I shudder to think how long it would have taken by hand.

I put on my man shirt and my man pants. I cursed. I moaned. 14 minutes and one very sore tricep later, I was through. Now I have to make a miter box to cut these @#$! channel bits. (At least the channel will go quick.)

Quick edit: making the miter box was way too time consuming. And the channel went quick but was a complete fail for a few reasons that I’ll detail in the build section above. Back to the metal store…


 

mattthemuppet
Offline
Last seen: 3 months 4 days ago
Joined: 01/04/2012 - 16:20
Posts: 1273
Location: WA

your man pants must have more space for swinging pendulums as that’s bloody quick. Then again, B&D probably didn’t envisage some muppet cutting through 1×2in alu bar with their jigsaw Smile

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US

ruffles wrote:
mattthemuppet wrote:

as for cutting that solid bar of aluminium, good luck Smile I spent about 30min cutting through a bar a bit thinner than that with a jigsaw and metal blade, I shudder to think how long it would have taken by hand.

I put on my man shirt and my man pants. I cursed. I moaned. 14 minutes and one very sore tricep later, I was through. Now I have to make a miter box to cut these @#$! channel bits. (At least the channel will go quick.)

Quick edit: making the miter box was way too time consuming. And the channel went quick but was a complete fail for a few reasons that I’ll detail in the build section above. Back to the metal store…

Mentioning “man shirt” and “man pants” from a user whose name is “ruffles” just seems a little odd :)… Sorry, I couldn’t help it :)!!

Rufusbduck
Rufusbduck's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 8 months ago
Joined: 04/04/2012 - 15:34
Posts: 10389
Location: Golden state

I know it’s supposed to be portable but this is shaping up to be a shoulder fired fugly monster. Keep it going, I love it! Shocked

Three Tanna leaves to give him life, nine to give him movement. But what if he eats the whole bag?

Scott

ruffles
ruffles's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/09/2011 - 10:18
Posts: 1020
Location: California
FmC wrote:
Flameproof resistors….just in case??? lol. Shocked

That’s for when the flux capacitor goes critical — duh!

Anyway, updated pics+chatter in post 3… enjoy.


 

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13456
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Fair dinkum. I’m sure OL did not realize what he would create when he was in the bowels off his shed smoking whatever dreaming up this comp. You guys doing the hand tools build all have one thing happening to you that is common through all the builds. Your all going to have arms on you like Arnold Schwarzenegger. Maybe when this comps over we could have another comp to see who has the biggest biceps off you all. Keep it up guys. I don’t think there will be any machine builds happening as you have put us all to shame.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

garrybunk
garrybunk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 22 hours ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 09:25
Posts: 6098
Location: Johnstown, PA

Wow! That threaded aluminum with the Dewalt battery shown for size reference really put it's size into perspective!  Wow!  Are you sure this thing will really be portable?  Maybe with a dolly to transport it?

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum
NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
ruffles
ruffles's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/09/2011 - 10:18
Posts: 1020
Location: California

Post three updated with lots of pics and rambling commentary.

Hope you like it!


 

ohaya
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 7 months ago
Joined: 03/16/2013 - 19:01
Posts: 5337
Location: US

Wow! You’ve come along pretty well. I’m a little surprised about that white wall shot… the beam looks not bad for a “tower of power” (you are from CA, right :))!!

labrat
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 2 days ago
Joined: 10/28/2012 - 17:04
Posts: 171
Location: Sioux Falls

Ruffles,

I don’t know if the broken hand tap is still bothering you (or if anyone reading this on the “interweb” cares).

I’ve run into similar situations before doing work on cars and completely agree drilling it out is a “no go.” The metal is harder than the vast majority of drill bits. That extreme hardness also makes it brittle so I have had good luck breaking it up with a punch and a ball peen hammer then extracting the pieces.

texaspyro
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 4 months ago
Joined: 04/29/2011 - 12:43
Posts: 4593

The traditional way of removing broken taps from aluminum and aluminium is to dissolve them out with nitric acid. The strength of the acid can be important. If it is too strong it passivates the tap material and they won’t dissolve. Too weak and the tap wont dissolve. A little googling should provide some help.

Other people report good results using alum (sold in grocery stores for pickling vegetables). You simmer the part for several hours in an alum solution. Also works for taps in copper/brass that nitric acid will dissolve.

MRsDNF
MRsDNF's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 hours 45 min ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
Posts: 13456
Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Well done ruffles. I need a new light in my shed. We enjoyed every minute off your build as much as you enjoyed building it. Thanks.

 

djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.

 

garrybunk
garrybunk's picture
Offline
Last seen: 3 days 22 hours ago
Joined: 10/31/2011 - 09:25
Posts: 6098
Location: Johnstown, PA

Congrats on a job well done. 

-Garry

My Bike Lights Thread, Optics (TIR) Comparison Beamshots, Diffusion Techniques

, MTBR’s Lights & Night Riding Forum
NOTE: Now hosting my photos from my Google account. Post up if you can’t see them. Older photos hosted on Photobucket or Flickr may disappear (PM me if you want access to them).
RaceR86
RaceR86's picture
Offline
Last seen: 4 years 9 months ago
Joined: 02/22/2012 - 08:32
Posts: 3777
Location: Norway

Congratulations!
Nice build!

BLF LED database – collaboration spreadsheet and latest news about where to buy LEDs
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19342

relic38
relic38's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 11 months ago
Joined: 12/28/2012 - 00:39
Posts: 3390
Location: Toronto, Canada

Great build, ruffles! That’s a monster, and will make a nice work light. Good job adjusting to adversity along the way. Beer

Welcome the night.

My Reviews   My Mods    http://budgetlightforum.com/search?

JohnnyMac
JohnnyMac's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 months 3 weeks ago
Joined: 04/12/2011 - 16:03
Posts: 8863
Location: Eastern PA

Nice build!  8)

ruffles
ruffles's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 7 hours ago
Joined: 07/09/2011 - 10:18
Posts: 1020
Location: California

Okay, maybe more than one, but just a note that I got a chance to light up the backyard last night.

It was too late and I was too tired to set up for beamshots, but this thing is super floody. (The 60 degree lenses may have had something to do with that!) I’m guessing something like 1000-1500 lumens, but I can’t be sure.

Thanks again, O-L, and mega-congrats to all participants. I’m thoroughly awestruck by the skill and creativity shown here.

This video clip accurately describes my role in this contest, I think:


 

Pages