Deal alert Trustfire 3xT6 $25 amazon

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RMM
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ImA4Wheelr wrote:

That’s why I like the original TR-3T6 driver so much.  Offers a lot of flexibility.  Can also drive MT-G2’s and can be easily resister modded for high currents.  I save my Dry drivers for different lights.

Thanks for posting so much about this light/driver, it has been very helpful to me. I sent back the defective copy and ordered another one, which should be here today. I ordered some trimpots that I’m hoping will be of use when resistor modding these lights. I have a few multimeters but I need to make some bigger leads for measuring the 2+ amp lights.

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I just received the 3T6 tube -JOE- had for sale. It has the coarse threads, doesn't fit the Trustfire, perfect fit for the Sky Ray. I used it with the 4 Duraloops, there was a very bright flash for a fraction of a second, then nothing, couldn't get another flicker out of it. I put the Duraloops back in the Trustfire, works fine. I removed the ext. tube and put the two 18650's back in the SR, works fine again.

Any idea what that means? Undecided

TheGloriousTachikoma
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Gj wrote:

I just received the 3T6 tube JOE had for sale. It has the coarse threads, doesn’t fit the Trustfire, perfect fit for the Sky Ray. I used it with the 4 Duraloops, there was a very bright flash for a fraction of a second, then nothing, couldn’t get another flicker out of it. I put the Duraloops back in the Trustfire, works fine. I removed the ext. tube and put the two 18650’s back in the SR, works fine again.

Any idea what that means? Undecided

It probably means the Sky Ray doesn’t use the same driver that the Trustfire does.

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I tried some more, it lights maybe 40% of the time. A half-click is as likely to make it go dark as change modes. The Trustfire is definitely the winner. I was mainly worried that flash meant something would get damaged.

ImA4Wheelr
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Yeah, I'm guessing you didn't do any damage.  Most circuits deal much better with insufficient voltage than excess voltage.  Especially flashlights that are inherently designed to deal with the high probability of encountering drained/partially highly drained cells from of sitting neglected for long periods of time.

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My second copy arrived last night (from Yes Digi) and it actually works! It is a pretty nice light with lots of potential (planning on re-wiring in series and using DRY driver).

A few quick observations:
1. Fit and finish is pretty nice, threads are decent and anodizing is good.
2. O-rings seal well but need lube.
3. Not as bright as my SRK (but can be easily changed with a resistor mod).
4. Runs off of (4) Eneloop AA’s, but the brightness is limited to about the “medium” level.
5. Perfectly centered emitters thanks to the centering rings, which may block some light.
6. The pill is a fairly large chunk of aluminum with lots of thread contact with the body. Should be able to handle being overdriven for a decent amount of time Smile .
7. With (3) protected Panasonic 2900 18650s the switch doesn’t work when screwed all the way in, I have to unscrew the tailcap about half-a-turn for it to work. With shorter cells there is no problem. I will take apart the tailcap and see what’s going on.

All-in-all a good buy for $25!

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TheGloriousTachikoma
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Mine just arrived! Big Smile The It was in just as good a shape as yours, Gj, though mine had about 3x the bubble wrap that yours did. 4 Eneloops power it just fine and it’s bright even indoors. In 2-cell mode it snugly fits 2 Panasonic protected 3400’s. I will however be going to the hardware store and looking for something plastic to sleeve the Eneloops as I don’t like how they rattle in the tube. With the eneloops she pulls a solid 4 amps. I get the feeling these batteries won’t last the advertised 1500 cycles. :bigsmile: I also need to buy a shell carrier for a hunting rifle, and mod it to fit the tail on this light. Just over 9000mWh won’t last long in this light, I’ll need a way to carry spare batteries.

Still a beautiful light. The machining and anno are perfect on this, and the strobe is more intense than my TF X9 or my UF C1, but then it’s alot brighter than either.. I just thought the box would be bigger. And it looked bigger in the photos.

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Any idea if this think will handle 12V. Thinking about 4 X cr123's  

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bikenber73 wrote:

Any idea if this think will handle 12V. Thinking about 4 X cr123’s  

Easily, if they will fit and make connection. It is made to run off (3) 18650s, which at 4+ volts initially give 12+ volts in series.

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TheGloriousTachikoma wrote:
Mine just arrived! Big Smile The It was in just as good a shape as yours, Gj, though mine had about 3x the bubble wrap that yours did. 4 Eneloops power it just fine and it's bright even indoors. In 2-cell mode it snugly fits 2 Panasonic protected 3400's. I will however be going to the hardware store and looking for something plastic to sleeve the Eneloops as I don't like how they rattle in the tube. With the eneloops she pulls a solid 4 amps. I get the feeling these batteries won't last the advertised 1500 cycles. :bigsmile: I also need to buy a shell carrier for a hunting rifle, and mod it to fit the tail on this light. Just over 9000mWh won't last long in this light, I'll need a way to carry spare batteries. Still a beautiful light. The machining and anno are perfect on this, and the strobe is more intense than my TF X9 or my UF C1, but then it's alot brighter than either.. I just thought the box would be bigger. And it looked bigger in the photos.

I cut a tube from a roll of paper towels to length, slit lengthwise, roll tighter, open slit about in half lengthwise and put it in the tube. Works great. I thought this was Budget Light Forum. Money Mouth

Besides, my 26650 to 18650 plastic spacers rattle in their tubes. If you want quiet and budget, recycle some cardboard, save some money, save some gas, save some time.

Yeah, the box was surprisingly small. I was puzzled by that short tube section in the middle. Toying around, I found that if you remove it you can run with 3x16340's in shorty mode, although it needs the tailcap backed off a turn. Doesn't seem to be a length issue per se, I think with the small diameter batteries something gets pushed askew breaking contact. Maybe a battery, maybe the driver spring? 

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Gj wrote:
I cut a tube from a roll of paper towels to length, slit lengthwise, roll tighter, open slit about in half lengthwise and put it in the tube. Works great. I thought this was Budget Light Forum. Money Mouth

Besides, my 26650 to 18650 plastic spacers rattle in their tubes. If you want quiet and budget, recycle some cardboard, save some money, save some gas, save some time.

Yeah, the box was surprisingly small. I was puzzled by that short tube section in the middle. Toying around, I found that if you remove it you can run with 3×16340’s in shorty mode, although it needs the tailcap backed off a turn. Doesn’t seem to be a length issue per se, I think with the small diameter batteries something gets pushed askew breaking contact. Maybe a battery, maybe the driver spring? 

I didn’t think of that, I’ll have to save the next paper towel tube before it goes in the recycling. And I was already out on errands, and I was thinking of 12” of plastic pipe or something like that…$3 sounds budget to me.

That does sound like an interesting problem. Maybe try taping the batteries together in a stack, and then using masking tape at the extreme ends to form centering rings? You could also just remove the brass plunger from the tailcap and dremel off the insulating pedestal for it, that would give you a bit more room (I think it would be necessary if using 3 Panasonic 18700-er, 18650s).

And I left this light on for 15 minutes…dayum it gets hot! It gets hotter than my X9 ever got. Though…even after 15 minutes of sucking down the Eneloops @ 4 amps…she was still drawing 4 amps at the tailcap. 8)

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I had to remove the cardboard to use the 16340's. It was just a test so I didn't make a shorter cardboard liner. I think they zig-zag in the oversize tube and one of the button-tops doesn't make contact with the next battery. A liner would probably fix it. Too bad they don't make 18340's, it would make a monster EDC. Tongue Out

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Just found out that minimum input voltage for the driver is 4v. So Yeah, Eneloops won’t give you much time with this, and it’s definitely not a single-18650 light, regardless what the specs say.

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Great light to have on hand, though. In an extended blackout, if your lithiums are spent you have AA's to carry on with, and medium is quite respectable.

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I probably should use this on medium when walking shadow at night, it really does light-up the area. It’s throw @ 6v is impressive if by sheer volume of output. My pulled Samsung 2800’s are (finally) charged so tonight she gets tested with 18650s! J)

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I wish I had a few 18350's to try in shorty mode.

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Um…

I said that I had tried this thing with 4 eneloops and when it got down to 1v/cell it wouldn’t turn on, it would just briefly flash…

I was bored, so I took off both tube extensions and dropped a couple eneloops in there to see if they’d fit.

And the tailcap comfortably screws-down on two eneloops in shorty mode.

And when I clicked it on, it produces a soft glow, about 80 lumens I’d guess, it’s a little softer than the Surefire P60L I just sold. No other modes, just this really low, soft light.

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I just tried it, same results. This light is pretty amazing. Surprised

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My theory is that the voltage is low enough that it’s going into some kind of direct drive. Or maybe it’s some hidden low-power teotwawki-setting. I just tested it with the DMM and on 2 AA’s it’s drawing 600mA. It however will not work on one AA. Silly

I want to know why there’s that hole of inoperability between 4v and 3v.

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Theory: The driver has a protection function that shuts the FL off when the voltage drops below ~4v. Around 3v the driver doesn't have enough voltage to operate, so no protection, and current leaks through the junctions.

 

That almost sounds plausible. Laughing

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I’ve played with the light some more, it’s pretty good. With 3×18650 it’s as bright as my custom DD MTG2 C8. It’s obviously bigger/wider than the C8 even in stubby mode and very heavy at the head, which is good for heatsinking. Build quality is excellent for the cost.

As some minor downsides, because this light uses so many large cells, the springs at the head and the tailcap are not strong enough to completely maintain tension on the cells. As a result, if you swing around the light even a little, the modes change because spring contact is momentarily lost. Thus this is not really a good light for anything where reliable operation is paramount. As a work around, I think 3×18350 cells will fit in stubby mode so I have cells on order and will do more testing. The obvious trade off is reduced runtime.

Also the pill does not appear to easily opened so I have just left it. I think it was mentioned here you have to remove the driver first to unscrew the reflector, but I don’t want to start prying and gouging the PCB.

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It looks like there’s a screw-in retaining ring for the driver, it might not require much prying. And you’re right on the modes changing like that. On the plus side you can just shake it to change modes, no messing with the tailcap. Wink I wonder if one can find stiffer springs for the tailcap/pill.

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TheGloriousTachikoma wrote:
It looks like there’s a screw-in retaining ring for the driver, it might not require much prying. And you’re right on the modes changing like that. On the plus side you can just shake it to change modes, no messing with the tailcap. Wink I wonder if one can find stiffer springs for the tailcap/pill.

Mine has a pressed in retaining ring holding the driver. I was able to carefully pry it out with some fine angled picks.

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Hmm…

I see a toroid. A big one. That means this is a boost driver, right? Then why does current draw decline linearly with voltage?

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I bought mine before I knew about these websites, manafont, cnq, aliexpress etc…. Mine was a clone and didn’t do so well. Not that it’s bad or anything, still working but I gave it away. Not sure about this seller is selling real ones or not but I would spend 5 bucks to get the extension tube for 3 batteries.

Don wrote:
It sounds like the XM LEDs won’t really be suitable for flashlight use. Pity…

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I just bought 3 extension tubes for $8.19 at the Banggood sale. Wink

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Gj wrote:

I just bought 3 extension tubes for $8.19 at the Banggood sale. Wink

TR-3T6 on 5×18650??

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Seriously though, does anyone know of a nice, spicy driver to put in this pill?

http://www.fasttech.com/products/1612/10005161/1404708-tr-0124b-84v-5-mo...

That driver is the right diameter but the ‘T’ part is about 5mm too deep to use in the 3T6 pill. I want a boost driver, something that’s going to keep a constant wattage to the emitters until the battery stack drops below 8v.

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B42 wrote:
Gj wrote:

I just bought 3 extension tubes for $8.19 at the Banggood sale. Wink

TR-3T6 on 5x18650??

No, I wanted to see what 8xAA Duraloops would do. Innocent

 

Probably too long for everyday use, but it's nice to have options. Wink

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Gj wrote:

B42 wrote:
Gj wrote:

I just bought 3 extension tubes for $8.19 at the Banggood sale. Wink

TR-3T6 on 5×18650??

No, I wanted to see what 8xAA Duraloops would do. Innocent

 

Probably too long for everyday use, but it’s nice to have options. Wink

Interesting, but then you will almost have a walking stick instead of a flashlight. Smile

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