Dismantling a Convoy C8

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Bean darach
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Dismantling a Convoy C8

Can anyone help me on how to dismantle a Convoy C8?

I just purchased one in a lovely warm tint, and am thrilled with it in all ways except that it won’t let me shut off the blinky modes.

The seller suggests that the best solution would be to solder the 3rd star on the Nanjg 105c driver (as explained here), to lock out the blinky modes permanently. I am happy to lock them out rather than just disabling them, so the mod is fine, and I have no problem doing a little soldering. It seems like less hassle and expense than sending the torch all the way back to China.

However, the driver on the C8 is partially covered by a sortofa ring, which means I can’t see the stars let alone get access to them with a soldering iron. So I guess some further dismantling is needed.

But how?

When I remove the battery holder, I am left with what’s in this picture: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/24654#comment-462967

On the other end of the head, I can unscrew the lens, which allows me to remove the reflector and expose the LED. There are two screws which secure the emitter’s mount, but that’s all. Will removing them help at all?

I am beginning to think that this is a more difficult job than I thought, and that maybe I just ask the seller to take the light back. But can anyone explain how to get a soldering iron in at the stars if I do try to fix it myself?

Thanks!

ohaya
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Hi,

My Convoy C8 has a 105C driver like yours.

If you switch it to low mode, then wait about 5 secs, and it blinks, then turn it off quickly (or half click) it should switch to the other mode group which doesn’t have blnkie modes.

Jim

Bean darach
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ohaya wrote:
My Convoy C8 has a 105C driver like yours.

If you switch it to low mode, then wait about 5 secs, and it blinks, then turn it off quickly (or half click) it should switch to the other mode group which doesn’t have blnkie modes.

Hi Jim, I know that. I have several other Convoy torches which work that way (S1, M1, another c8) , and this one is supposed to work that way.

The problem is that it doesn’t work that way. I have tried repeatedly to find a blink in low mode (waiting for up to 60 seconds), and tried switching it on and off in low mode after various intervals. All no go, which is why the sller eventually suggested soldering it.

And that’s why I need help dismantling it.

Bergtjie
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Bean darach wrote:
ohaya wrote:
My Convoy C8 has a 105C driver like yours.

If you switch it to low mode, then wait about 5 secs, and it blinks, then turn it off quickly (or half click) it should switch to the other mode group which doesn’t have blnkie modes.

Hi Jim, I know that. I have several other Convoy torches which work that way (S1, M1, another c8) , and this one is supposed to work that way.

The problem is that it doesn’t work that way. I have tried repeatedly to find a blink in low mode (waiting for up to 60 seconds), and tried switching it on and off in low mode after various intervals. All no go, which is why the sller eventually suggested soldering it.

And that’s why I need help dismantling it.

Normal dismantling is from the front , unscrew the bezel ring, this could require a rubber mat or sole of a shoe to unscrew , then the pill should unscrew to give access to the emitter and driver.

I think you have an unusual 105C driver there similar to this driver from FT
__*Mode groups:
Unlike the 4-group 105c driver, the four stars on this 2-group 105c variant do not alter mode groups*__

ohaya
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Bean darach wrote:
ohaya wrote:
My Convoy C8 has a 105C driver like yours.

If you switch it to low mode, then wait about 5 secs, and it blinks, then turn it off quickly (or half click) it should switch to the other mode group which doesn’t have blnkie modes.

Hi Jim, I know that. I have several other Convoy torches which work that way (S1, M1, another c8) , and this one is supposed to work that way.

The problem is that it doesn’t work that way. I have tried repeatedly to find a blink in low mode (waiting for up to 60 seconds), and tried switching it on and off in low mode after various intervals. All no go, which is why the sller eventually suggested soldering it.

And that’s why I need help dismantling it.

Hi,

Ok, just mentioned it because I wasn’t sure.

ohaya
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Bergtjie wrote:
Bean darach wrote:
ohaya wrote:
My Convoy C8 has a 105C driver like yours.

If you switch it to low mode, then wait about 5 secs, and it blinks, then turn it off quickly (or half click) it should switch to the other mode group which doesn’t have blnkie modes.

Hi Jim, I know that. I have several other Convoy torches which work that way (S1, M1, another c8) , and this one is supposed to work that way.

The problem is that it doesn’t work that way. I have tried repeatedly to find a blink in low mode (waiting for up to 60 seconds), and tried switching it on and off in low mode after various intervals. All no go, which is why the sller eventually suggested soldering it.

And that’s why I need help dismantling it.

Normal dismantling is from the front , unscrew the bezel ring, this could require a rubber mat or sole of a shoe to unscrew , then the pill should unscrew to give access to the emitter and driver.

I think you have an unusual 105C driver there similar to this driver from FT
__*Mode groups:
Unlike the 4-group 105c driver, the four stars on this 2-group 105c variant do not alter mode groups*__

I think that you’re referring to this FT driver:

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1127403

This one (Generic) doesn’t do the mode switching and requires the soldered star, but it looks different than the Nanjg/105C tha FT also carries:

https://www.fasttech.com/products/1186301

Notice the latter says “105C” on the spring side, whereas the former doesn’t. Also the layout of the 7135s on the spring side is different between the two drivers (circular for the generic one).

ohaya
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Hi,

This threads has info about disassembling and getting the ring off:

http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19710

Quote:
The pill itself was not easy to open. The driver retaining ring was fixed with thermal adhesive. I needed to use a rubber glove, needle-nose pliers, and a lot of force to break the bond. What I like about this design is how the driver is firmly pressed into the pill and makes very good electrical contact.

Also, on the Convoy C8 I got, I had a heck of a time getting the bezel off. I thought that it was glued, so I opened a ticket with FT and they claimed they contacted the mfr and that the mfr said that they didn’t glue it. I think put more effort into getting the bezel off and eventually came off with nitrile gloves and a LOT of grunting :)…

Bergtjie
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https://www.fasttech.com/products/1186301, Yep that’s the one, I accidentally bought that driver, thinking I would solder the star to remove blinkys, then discovered you can’t.

Bean darach
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Thanks for the pointers, everybody.

It sounds like a lot of force is required, and I’d need thermal adhesive to reassemble it properly, if I don’t damage it on the way.

I’m not confident about my ability to the fix and get it all back together again properly, so I think I;ll ask the vendor to sort it out.

Revolvr
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ohaya wrote:
Hi, This threads has info about disassembling and getting the ring off: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/19710
Quote:
The pill itself was not easy to open. The driver retaining ring was fixed with thermal adhesive. I needed to use a rubber glove, needle-nose pliers, and a lot of force to break the bond. What I like about this design is how the driver is firmly pressed into the pill and makes very good electrical contact.
Also, on the Convoy C8 I got, I had a heck of a time getting the bezel off. I thought that it was glued, so I opened a ticket with FT and they claimed they contacted the mfr and that the mfr said that they didn't glue it. I think put more effort into getting the bezel off and eventually came off with nitrile gloves and a LOT of grunting :)...

 

I've had trouble unscrewing the bezel off Convoy lights before too. At a grocery store or place like Walgreens, or even Amazon, you can find a gadget that helps unscrew over-tight jar lids. Usually called something like "Rubber Jar Grip". It is basically a thin square or round piece of flexible rubber. It gives you a very good grip without marring the finish. Get two. One for each hand. Never fails.

Bean darach
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Well, I managed to get the pill out. However, the ring covering the driver is glued on.

It is lightly made, so how can I get it off without damaging it? And would I glue it back on afterwards?

unknown00101
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I’m at the same stage Bean. I can’t tell if the retaining ring over the driver is screwed on or slides on , but it definitely has a ton of white glue all up in it. Silly

I seem to recall a good strategy for unscrewing glued bezels involving dropping the item into a ziplock bag and dropping the sealed bag into hot water for a bit, then using gloves to twist them apart… No idea if this would work on thermal glue seeing as it is designed to withstand heat.

TheGloriousTachikoma
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White glue…if the glue flexible to the touch (prod it with a pencil)? If so it sounds like Fujik, thermal potting compound (and not much to break though)