"Shallow" MCPCB connections - solid wire

I seem to have a mile (literally) of 22AWG solid copper cable. Even better, there are 2 insulated unplated copper leads and un-insulated silver plated ground lead (good to keep the polarity straight). This stuff may be difficult to work with if you have to install the driver after you terminate the MCPCB but if you can fix the driver with leads sticking through the pill, you might be in luck.

This is what it looks like when I get ready to make the terminations:

And with some fine point needle nose pliers, this is the result:

There is a slight arc in the bare wire at the edge of the MCPCB so it will never short out. Termination is a breeze.

I also use Teflon sleeving (stripped insulation from stranded wire). That allows for a generous amount of heat without the insulation deforming.
However, with the greater availability of the much softer silicone wire, this is even easier.

Today I received my Mtn Electronics order with the 24AWG silicone wire (thanks for the fast delivery!)
I was planning to order several sizes but they were not in stock so I tried the insulation from the 24AWG stranded wire on the 22AWG solid wire.
It fits like a glove!

Here is the tip for today… 22AWG solid wire has an OD of .023”. With a pair of good pliers (smooth face), you can half the thickness of the wire easily (.011”).
In this case, with a little skill and the small “bridge” at the edge of the MCPCB, you can keep the entire termination in less than the thickness of the emitter substrate.

I’m looking at this as a hybrid of several recent posts regarding this subject. You can do something very similar by terminating this to the ends of stranded wire as well if you really need the flexibility for a removable driver or other assembly constraints. Using the insulation from the silicone wire of various sizes will easily let you insulate the termination on the driver side of the pill. You might be surprised at how strong that deformed (squished) copper material still is.

I had a similar situation for the MT-G2 in my Trustfire X6. With that light you pretty much have the thickness of the substrate to work with before shorting on the reflector. I ended-up doing something similar to the Old-Lumens solution. I went to the hardware store and got a copper pipe bracket. I cut some small strips from that to bridge-out over the holes in the emitter shelf, and the leads are simply end-soldered to those strips. One just has to be careful that the bare end of the wire doesn’t touch the shelf or the mcpcb.