Help - Disassemble the Hugsby XP-2 Head and driver mod?

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ohaya
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Help - Disassemble the Hugsby XP-2 Head and driver mod?

Hi,

This is a followup to another thread (http://budgetlightforum.com/node/36758), but specific to the Hugsby XP-2 (and maybe XP-1) AAA lights.

I have a couple of the XP-2 (2 x AAA) and have been trying to disassemble the head.

As mentioned in that other thread, I tried to push the driver etc. out the back but ended up cracking the (apparently AR) lens.

So, now, I’ve removed the driver, by de-soldering (and cutting) it from the brass ring:

Here’s the driver:

and:

Is this driver moddable at all?

After removing the driver, I was kind of surprised that this appears to have a solid shelf for the star (seen from the back below):

So now, I’m trying to disassemble the rest of the head. I’m kind of sure that the head must unscrew into (at least) 2 pieces, because (a) it doesn’t open from the front and (b) there’s the shelf in the middle, but I haven’t been able to take it apart any further.

Here’re a couple of more pics:

Has anyone taken this head apart? If so, how?

Edited by: ohaya on 01/03/2015 - 13:56
cajampa
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That rectangular shape kind of looks like a 7135, if it is maybe it is possible to stack them?

I don’t think it is in two parts on the outside but that it is a brass sleeve that is pressfitted into the head with the star and led already mounted on the lens side with the o ring and lens dropped down first.

But i hope i am wrong and it is screwed together somewhere around the knurling Smile

ohaya
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cajampa wrote:
That rectangular shape kind of looks like a 7135, if it is maybe it is possible to stack them?

I don’t think it is in two parts on the outside but that it is a brass sleeve that is pressfitted into the head with the star and led already mounted on the lens side with the o ring and lens dropped down first.

But i hope i am wrong and it is screwed together somewhere around the knurling Smile

Hi,

I think that that chip is a FET, and the smaller one is a (Schottky?) diode.

I don’t think you’re supposed to stack (parallel) FETs like you can with 7135s, because you normally need to balance the current amonst the FETs.

EDIT: But, if you had problems killing the 1xAAA (vs. working with the 2xAAA) when using 1xLi-ion, maybe it’d be possible to mod the 1xAAA driver by replacing with different version FET and/or diode.

EDIT 2: Since you have some dead 1xAAA heads, can you pull the driver out like I did (cut the 2 solder joints) and post pics of the driver?

ohaya
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cajampa,

I had thought the same thing as you suggested, but the LED shelf is a couple of cm down from the end of the brass ring, and the inside of the head is black, so I don’t know if it could be that way.

cajampa
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Sorry that wasn’t me, i was the one who put a 10440 in my xp-1 and i didn’t get any light at alll, now i know i was fortunate because,i had i got some light it would be dead now.
I was the one who liked his hugsby to much Smile to be rouge with it before i got the others in the mail for sacrifice Evil

EDIT
what…. so the brass ring is just a retaining ring for the driver………i don’t know what to make of this how do they get it in there???

EDIT2
I think i got it, if you take off the o ring it looks like maybe it is glued in or pressfitted in where the shiny aluminum stops and the anodizing start.

ohaya
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cajampa wrote:
Sorry that wasn’t me, i was the one who put a 10440 in my xp-1 and i didn’t get any light at alll, now i know i was fortunate because,i had i got some light it would be dead now.
I was the one who liked his hugsby to much Smile to be rouge with it before i got the others in the mail for sacrifice Evil

EDIT
what…. so the brass ring is just a retaining ring for the driver………i don’t know what to make of this how do they get it in there???

EDIT2
I think i got it, if you take off the o ring it looks like maybe it is glued in or pressfitted in where the shiny aluminum stops and the anodizing start.

Did you actually get it apart there? Post some pics!!!

cajampa
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Sorry to get your hopes up, no as i said i will not try to rip it apart before i get some more in the mail for sacrifice, i like it to much and use it surprisingly often.

But if you take of the o ring and check where i described it looks like it could be fitted there by glue or pressfit.

AlexTG
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The chip is boost IC, obviously (most likely BL8505, BL8530, LY8530 or something similar).
There’s no easy way to mod this driver, I’m afraid.

ohaya
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AlexTG wrote:
The chip is boost IC, obviously (most likely BL8505, BL8530, LY8530 or something similar). There’s no easy way to mod this driver, I’m afraid.

Hi,

Thanks. So this:

http://www.belling.com.cn/2011p/BL8530_en.pdf

?

ohaya
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cajampa wrote:
Sorry to get your hopes up, no as i said i will not try to rip it apart before i get some more in the mail for sacrifice, i like it to much and use it surprisingly often.

But if you take of the o ring and check where i described it looks like it could be fitted there by glue or pressfit.

FYI, I’ve tried using a pair of pliers in the emitter wire holes but it wouldn’t budge (tried both counter-clockwise and clockwise, just in case), so maybe, as you said it’s glued :(?

AlexTG
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ohaya wrote:
So this:
http://www.belling.com.cn/2011p/BL8530_en.pdf
?

Yep, SOT-89-3 5.0V variety
cajampa
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This is a bit disheartening, i guess i will just have to use the Hugsbys as nice aaa gift lights, they really didn’t want anyone to open them is seems, it is like the complete opposite of the jexree mini.

ohaya
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Since it’s not a FET, I wonder if it’d be ok to stack them, as cajampa was thinking earlier?

cajampa
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I would guess not, i would not stack anything other than the 7135 or resistors, boost drivers are finicky, i haven’t seen any very suspenseful attempt at modding them.

How deep is the driver compartment? check out wight new 12mm driver

At least the driver is somewhat accessible so it is still upgradeable, depending on how deep the space are.

bikedude
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heat up the pill before attempting to remove driver/emitter.

musicmagic
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have you tried carefully pulling out the front o-ring, and seeing if it disassembles that way?

If you can’t blind them with your brilliance, baffle them with your bullcrap.

The real currency in the world is not money, it’s trust.

ohaya
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musicmagic wrote:
have you tried carefully pulling out the front o-ring, and seeing if it disassembles that way?

Hi,

By “front o-ring” do you mean the one that’s between the front of the reflector and the inside of the head? If so, that O-ring came out awhile ago, when I cracked the lens. The reflector cannot come out the front of the head, as there’s a lip there.

It also doesn’t seem to come apart at the other end of the head, where the threads are, either.

Totally puzzled at this point.

cajampa
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Check where the threads are, if you remove the o ring on top of the threads, i think it looks like it could possible be as seam there.

And could you measure how deep the driver area is for me, if it is at least 4,9mm deep (and maybe smaller if one shaves some components), wights 12mm FET driver could fit in there for a driver upgrade at least.

ohaya
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I’ll try measure the depth later today.

But, off-topic: I found the stock XP-2 light, with 1×10440 and a dummy battery is kind of crazy bright! We were out last night, doing some snow blowing, and that was the only light I had on me, and I used it light up across our entire driveway (and brightly).

cajampa
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Good update on the 10440 Smile i have some xp-2’s coming soon, i can’t wait to get them Smile

ohaya
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cajampa,

I measured the depth of the driver side of the head, from the rearmost edge, it was 8.21mm

Still no progress getting the head apart though, so if anyone does figure that out, please post!!

Thanks,
Jim.

cajampa
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Thanks Jim, 8,12mm should be plenty to get one of wights small 12mm fet drivers in there, and i already like the tint of the stock hugsby so i think i will try to upgrade one when i got everything i need to build them.

It is weird we can’t figure out how to disassemble it.

When the lens is out of the head is it possible remove the reflector then? if so could you measure how deep & wide it is? i like the reflector in the Hugsby so i thought maybe i could use it to upgrade the reflector in the Jexree Mini.

Have you seen this AA/14500 Hugsby it got modes and is lithium ready, i will probably get one sooner or later…….

ohaya
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cajampa wrote:
Thanks Jim, 8,12mm should be plenty to get one of wights small 12mm fet drivers in there, and i already like the tint of the stock hugsby so i think i will try to upgrade one when i got everything i need to build them.

It is weird we can’t figure out how to disassemble it.

When the lens is out of the head is it possible remove the reflector then? if so could you measure how deep & wide it is? i like the reflector in the Hugsby so i thought maybe i could use it to upgrade the reflector in the Jexree Mini.

Have you seen this AA/14500 Hugsby it got modes and is lithium ready, it will probably get one sooner or later…….

Hi,

With the lens gone/cracked/removed, “no”, I cannot remove the reflector. That part of the head is one piece, i.e., there is no ‘bezel ring” to remove, so basically, the reflector (and the emitter+star) are stuck inside the head, unless I can figure out how to take the head apart.

I’m getting close to putting a hacksaw on this darn head, just to see what’s inside, if nothing else.

Re. the 14500, no I haven’t before, but I want to get this AAA/10440 modded first.

cajampa
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Before you saw it in half, could you try to fix it in a vice with something to protect the anodizing between and try to wrench it on the threads or maybe the other way around fix it by the threads, that is one other way had thought to try to open it when i get some new hugsbys for the sacrifice, because i am not sure even if it could work if it is even possible to do non destructively.

If that is not working maybe try heating it up before, if it is epoxied in there.

If that don’t work, then i am totally out of ideas how to get this head open, well maybe if it don’t work and you take a hacksaw to it finally, we can draw some conclusion then on how they have put this head together.

Good Luck & remember to take some pictures so we hopefully can get some leads on how to disassemble it.

ohaya
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Well, I was able to get the brass ring out, just grabbed it with a small pair of needle nose and pulled, and it popped out.

But, the head? No luck. I’ve tried heat, and also some BGA epoxy remover, but it just won’t come apart. At this point, I’m still not 100% sure where the head comes apart, but looking at it, it HAS to be at the driver end of the knurled area. But even knowing that, I can’t get it open, so it must have some super, super glue or something :(!!

EDIT: This shows where I think (guess) the joint is:

cajampa
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Ok, good to know that the brass ring isn’t glued.

On you picture i see that your bottom o ring above the threads is still on, that is where i think the joint is, if you take off the o ring you will see uneven material where the bare aluminum & anodized aluminum meet, that is where i suspect the seam with glue are.

4,7mm to 5mm down from the lower part of the knurling.

wight
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cajampa wrote:
Ok, good to know that the brass ring isn’t glued. On you picture i see that your bottom o ring above the threads is still on, that is where i think the joint is, if you take off the o ring you will see uneven material where the bare aluminum & anodized aluminum meet, that is where i suspect the seam with glue are. 4,7mm to 5mm down from the lower part of the knurling.
Of course I don’t actually have one of these in hand, but it’s pretty common for the anodized portion to be larger than the bare portion on a solid object. The whole light was anodized and then machining operations were done to it (eg it was turned on a lathe). This applies anywhere that you see bare aluminum.
ohaya wrote:
Well, I was able to get the brass ring out, just grabbed it with a small pair of needle nose and pulled, and it popped out.

But, the head? No luck. I’ve tried heat, and also some BGA epoxy remover, but it just won’t come apart. At this point, I’m still not 100% sure where the head comes apart, but looking at it, it HAS to be at the driver end of the knurled area. But even knowing that, I can’t get it open, so it must have some super, super glue or something :(!!

EDIT: This shows where I think (guess) the joint is: [snip]

Looks like a good guess to me. What tools have you tried so far? Strap wrenches? Wrapped vice grips? etc?

Are you willing to destroy this one “for science” since it’s taken a fair amount of damage already?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

ohaya
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Ok, it’s done, and the joint is where I surmised. I tried to cut it to make a cross-section, but it came apart before I was done. Pics below.

I don’t think it was glued, but just really darn tight? I also don’t think it was reverse threaded, though I’m not 100% of that now.

You can see the tiny emitter board:

Hopefully these pics will help someone come up with a way to open this head up without destroying it… and if so, please post (incl pics)?

ImA4Wheelr
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^ Wow, talk about taking one for the team.  Thank you Ohaya.  Anodized threads that appear well cut, nice.  They do appear to be normal right-handed (clockwise) threads.  There appears to be some type of substance stuck to parts of the threads in the second to last picture.  Doesn't appear to be any of the typical thread lock colors though.  The below table is from here.

Typical properties of thread-locking fluids [4]
TypeTypical color-codeTorque to break freeTorque to continue turningTemperature range
Low strength Purple62 in-lb (7 N-m)27 in-lb (3 N-m)−54 to 149 °C
Medium strength Blue115 in-lb (12 N-m)53 in-lb (6 N-m)−54 to 149 °C
Medium strength surface insensitive Blue180 in-lb (20 N-m)62 in-lb (7 N-m)−54 to 149 °C
High strength Red230 in-lb (25 N-m)225 in-lb (25 N-m)−54 to 149 °C
High temperature Red180 in-lb (20 N-m)270 in-lb (30 N-m)−54 to 232 °C
Penetrating Green90 in-lb (10 N-m)310 in-lb (35 N-m)−54 to 149 °C
wight
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Hah! Good work.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

ohaya
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Now that we can see how the head is designed, I guess that we (anyone) has to figure out how to open it without damaging it?

So far, I’ve had no success with the others I have (I just got 2 of the XP-1s in).

Jim

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