An/peq-14 lam 1000

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usmchiker
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An/peq-14 lam 1000

I have an AN/PEQ-14 – LAM 1000 and I am looking to do an LED conversion on it. Does anyone have any experience on that or know where I can turn to find some info?

Thanks Rob

WarHawk-AVG
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EOTech?

Semper Fi

usmchiker
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Yes, that is it.

WarHawk-AVG
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Need to know what it looks like under the lens where the emitter is, need to know the voltage running the emitter

That is one heck of a nice laser/light pistol setup…daggum!

usmchiker
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warhawk, I can’t figure out how to attach the pics.

wight
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You’ll need to use an image hosting service. Flickr, Photobucket, Imgur, etc.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

WarHawk-AVG
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click image for full size

peq 14

IMG 9550 zps595d4453

IMG 9548 zps5989cb1e

IMG 9547 zps7a203f98

IMG 9546 zps8d30166a

IMG 9545 zps3ea5d458

Looks like a little module and an incandescent bulb…do you know the voltage it takes to run the bulb?

It looks like you screw down the front of the light to turn it on?

very interesting setup…I see a ledge on the base piece that could possibly hold a 16mm star, the incandescent bulb looks like maybe a XM-L would fit thru the hole in the reflector

wight
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  • Looks like 2xCR132A, so 6v.
  • Do you need to continue using CR123A or can you convert to 16650?
  • This thing doesn’t focus… does it? It totally looks like it focuses. ergh.
  • The assembly is very deep and all synthetic (aka plastic). This will need to be driven at a very low current. Think Maglite LED levels or lower – that’s around 200 lumens or so. Not impressive, but normal pistol weaponlight levels probably?
  • The shelf WarHawk-AVG sees is approximately 1.0CM to 1.5CM below the focal point if the reflector. The LED will need to be shimmed forward a long way. There may be room down there for a 17mm driver.

IMO this project is going to be a pain, eg not a good beginner project.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

WarHawk-AVG
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Yeah…good call wight, NOT going to be a beginner mod…now if you can find a drop in LED bulb like one of these…possibly…but a full bore internals re-working, probably not

These are drop in replacements for the maglight incandescent bulbs (choose right voltage) but…there ya go
https://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/b-series/

I wonder if you could shave off the flange and shoe horn it in…but how to keep it polarity correct?

djozz
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..and you need a different reflector, the led needs to go in a cm or so to be in the focus point, difficult and wasting part of the reflector, and leaving little reflector area leftover for making the hotspot, but with much spill. Better take a shorter focal length led reflector with flat bottom for less spill and a bigger hotspot.

usmchiker
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Thanks, Wow, I definitely came to the right place. It does have a variable illuminator, however it is not a feature I need. So if the mod works better without, I am cool with that. 200 to 250 lumens is perfect. It is going on a suppressed Glock 21 45 acp. the IR side will get the most use, but want the light and laser for backup. I want the longevity of the LED, the power consumption and durability. I would like to keep it with CR123’s simply for compatibility with my other lights.

wight
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In that case WarHawk-AVG’s suggested bulb assembly may be the best. I’d go with “PR2-3WHP-x” in the 3.5v-9v flavor (PR2-3WHP-9V).

That should give you approximately the amount of light you’re looking for (on the low side, but I did already warn you) plus the most room to work with when assembling your adapter to put it down the tube where the stock bulb sits.

@ djozz, it appears that the focal point may be somewhat lower than normal in this incan reflector… but I could be wrong!! Either way the LED must be shoved in there at least a few MM.

@OP again: Now, you don’t have to go that route. If you are an advanced modder / maker you could consider building a brass or copper pill with a small buck driver and a tower:
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?375245-Drop-in-module...
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?375235-LED-tower-module-for-Surefire-turbohead

With a big enough bulb opening in the reflector it can even be done in aluminum using a cut down MCPCB:
http://www.cpfmarketplace.com/mp/showthread.php?304952-sold-LED-Tower-module-for-Surefire-KT1-KT2-KT4
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?257037-LED-options-for-Surefire-M6&p=3235697&viewfull=1#post3235697

EDIT: Maybe you could also just use a linear driver. Even with the CR123’s being somewhat weak cells, that’s a lot of heat for a plastic host….

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

usmchiker
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I appreciate all the advice on how to do this, but this is way out of my league. Is there anyone here able to do the mod?

wight
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That’s a fairly pricey item. I’d be pretty hesitant to send it off myself.

We have many modders, some of whom regularly do a little custom work for hire. Nobody here has demonstrated that they have done a mod very similar to what you want.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

usmchiker
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Thanks for the response, do you have any recommendations?

wight
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usmchiker wrote:
Thanks for the response, do you have any recommendations?
It appears that this mod does not have to be beyond the capabilities of your local machinist.

The bulb WarHawk-AVG suggested… buy it. See whether you can get it up into the reflector in an acceptable way. If you can’t do it without cutting the reflector… don’t do it. Check disassembly options and see about using another reflector (again, to protect your EOTech investment in case this project goes south!). This is all simple stuff so far, you must be able to do these things yourself if you can shoot a firearm.

If the bulb fits and goes in high enough to get a properly focused beam, now it’s time to see your local machinist. Have the machinist turn a brass or copper pillar/basket combo for the bulb to sit in. You’ll have to work with the machinist to ensure that both positive and negative contacts are setup correctly.

There’s no need for a collar to retain the bulb. Just solder it around the edges once it’s sitting in it’s little basket/receptacle. I’d say you’re looking at $20 of work from a friendly machinist, $100 from a less friendly one.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

usmchiker
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wight,

I appreciate all the info, but all this is new to me and wouldn’t even know where to start. Thanks Again,

Rob

wight
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Err, you know how a lightbulb works, right?

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)

usmchiker
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I do, not sure what this is – brass or copper pillar/basket combo – is this the set up I need – 3 Watt Flashlight Bulb
Product Code: PR2-3WHP-x What else do I need ?

wight
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  • The bulb is approximately the same size as a Maglite D bulb. I assume that the Maglite bulb is much shorter than the bulb which came with your EOTech.
  • The bulb requires a + and – connection. It’s coaxial, – (GND) is on the outside and + is on the inside. Just like a household “Edison” / medium base bulb.

You’ll need a metal pillar designed to do two things:

  • Hold the bulb in the appropriate place.
  • Allow for the electrical connections.

The GND connection is pretty straightforward. Since the exterior of the mag retrofit bulb is already GND, all you need to do is solder the bulb to the pillar and you’re done. The positive connection on the other hand… the pillar will need to be bored through the center for a positive wire which connects to the base of the bulb. Furthermore the positive wire must go down to the base of the pillar and connect to one of those two little springy contacts. I’d look into ripping part of the base of the stock bulb out (it’s disposable anyway, right?) and having the pillar machined to accept it.

Still fine, still on a break. One day I’ll catch up with you folks! previous wight catchup Wink
list of my drivers & variants (A17DD, FET+1 stuff, WIP stuff, etc)