Shadow JM35: MT G2 one one cell!!

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MG
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M4D M4X wrote:
do you have more info about the driver you used?

Dale, I am also interested in the driver you used. Do you have a source?

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These are the same “monster” driver for TR-J 12/18 back then

The only way to do a great work is to love what you do.

DB Custom
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The driver is the one for the DQG Tiny, the triple with 26650 that’s so small. They sell it separately. I did have to remove the e-switch and swap it over I think, as the new driver didn’t come with one installed.

I merely cut a small place for the corners of the larger die substrate, removing the very minimum from the reflector base. After the XHP-70’s came out, I put one of those in this light in place of the MT-G2.

6A boost driver

My JM26 is nice, very well finished and clean as a whistle. I like it’s style, am still thinking about putting a kill switch in the tail for lockout as it DOES have a drain that will sap the big cell over time.

DB Custom
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My memory is worse than I realized, checking my order history with CNQG I ordered that light and driver on Christmas Day last year. Shocked

Hikelite
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DBCstm wrote:
The driver is the one for the DQG Tiny, the triple with 26650 that's so small. They sell it separately. I did have to remove the e-switch and swap it over I think, as the new driver didn't come with one installed. I merely cut a small place for the corners of the larger die substrate, removing the very minimum from the reflector base. After the XHP-70's came out, I put one of those in this light in place of the MT-G2. "6A boost driver":http://cnqualitygoods.com/goods.php?id=2198 My JM26 is nice, very well finished and clean as a whistle. I like it's style, am still thinking about putting a kill switch in the tail for lockout as it DOES have a drain that will sap the big cell over time.

It is a 2A boost driver ( meaning MT-G2 will get 2A output at 6V from 3.6-4.2V input source). So of course it is is not a 6A boost output as the title implies, I guess it was specified/targeted towards people who are are not familiar with step up and step down drivers, but with linear drivers. But well, I am talking only based on specs, I mean what makes the specs accurate? only testing the output current for various LED voltages 6V, 9V, 12V.

itsonlyme
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It is 2A(*3) on turbo. Designed to give 2 amps to each emitter on a triple setup. So it will give 6 amps to a single emitter in turbo mode give or take.
Am I way off here? Seeing some of Dale’s flashlights, I seriously doubt he would settle for 2A in a Xhp70

Hikelite
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itsonlyme wrote:
It is 2A(*3) on turbo. Designed to give 2 amps to each emitter on a triple setup. So it will give 6 amps to a single emitter in turbo mode give or take. Am I way off here? Seeing some of Dale's flashlights, I seriously doubt he would settle for 2A in a Xhp70

Yes you are way off, see what I wrote above. 

DB Custom
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I just took a current reading with a Gold King Kong 4000mAh cell and got 2.67A. I don’t think I did anything to bump the output, but that’s asking a lot of my memory if I did that 5 months ago.

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Usually that’s correct, I wouldn’t settle for that low of a current. But if the light impresses me and it’s difficult to repair or place the driver then I tend to play it safe and just enjoy the light. I’ve got plenty of hot rods and dragsters, sometimes it’s nice to just have a smooth ride. Wink

Hikelite
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DBCstm wrote:
I just took a current reading with a Gold King Kong 4000mAh cell and got 2.67A. I don't think I did anything to bump the output, but that's asking a lot of my memory if I did that 5 months ago.

Output current reading, or input (a.k.a. tailcap), Dale?

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DBCstm wrote:
I got the very nice looking Shadow JM26 some months back. Also bought driver for the DQG Tiny. With that driver, I was able to put the MT-G2 into the JM26 and run a single 26650 to the big emitter. Very nice light, and yes, unique running a 6V emitter off a 4.2V cell.

Very quickly became a favorite. Wink

Nice. Looks more comfortable to hold but it’s a tad bit larger, so maybe a bit less pocket-able:

JM35: 130mm x 55mm (length x head)

JM26: 142mm x 63.5mm

EDIT: Who sells the DQG tiny driver? And did you have to mod the driver in any way? you posted answers while I was typing!

 

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hmmmm

if the 3 original LEDs are switched in parallel and get each 2A then the driver delivers 6A… (at 4V)
if they are in series it just boosts the Voltage up to 12V to get 2A over the led

am I right?

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Hikelite
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M4D M4X wrote:
hmmmm if the 3 original LEDs are switched in parallel and get each 2A then the driver delivers 6A... (at 4V) if they are in series it just boosts the Voltage up to 12V to get 2A over the led am I right?

Yes you are, but  a boost driver cannot work with LEDs that need less voltage that the cell has (LED in parallel, for that you need linear drivers or certain buck drivers)

DB Custom
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According to the specs, it’s a 6A driver.

“3. Turbo mode up to 6A, 1250 lumens”

If my cell were fully charged it would probably be very close to 3A on the XHP-70, which of course is a 6V emitter, so that would be the equivalent of a 6A current to a 3V emitter, right?

Regardless, it works, and with a single cell to what is otherwise a dual cell emitter. So it’s magical, special, unique, and a winner. Beat the dead horse if you will, it’s not ALWAYS about maximum output. (I said that? really? I better go lay down for awhile….)

DB Custom
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The original DQG Tiny Triple XP-G2 is wired in series, making the emitters need 9.xxV to run. And this is done through the single 26650 cell by this very large and complicated driver.

Edit: Sorry, I see what you did there. The boost driver has to push current to emitters that need a higher voltage than the power supply, hence “boost”. This is why they’re wired in series. Got it.

Hikelite
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3V* 6A = 18W (parallel LEDs)
9V* 2A = 18W  (series LEDs)
Same amount of power, which is all that matters.

It's boost driver, so you need to measure the output current of the driver, as the input need to be higher, because you have 6V at the LED but the input is 4.2V so the driver needs to use extra current to boost the voltage, thus input current is higher than output current on a boost driver. So that is why it is totally unlike a direct drive circuit or a linear circuit.

 

 

beam0
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Hikelite wrote:

3V* 6A = 18W (parallel LEDs)
9V* 2A = 18W  (series LEDs)
Same amount of power, which is all that matters.

It’s boost driver, so you need to measure the output current of the driver, as the input need to be higher, because you have 6V at the LED but the input is 4.2V so the driver needs to use extra current to boost the voltage, thus input current is higher than output current on a boost driver. So that is why it is totally unlike a direct drive circuit or a linear circuit.

 

 

So a “boost” driver Steps up the voltage, resulting in lowered output current (vs input current) Reading this it sounds like the JM35 isn’t going to work on 2+ cells?

This is probably a dumb question i’m sure but are/were all MT-G2 emitters 6v? How does the driver work to put the correct voltage to the LED in multi cell MT-G2 lights, (for example the JM30 that can run on 2 or 3 cells)

 

Hikelite
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beam0 wrote:
So a "boost" driver Steps up the voltage, resulting in lowered output current (vs input current)

Yes in essence, more current is drawn to boost the voltage.

beam0 wrote:
Reading this it sounds like the JM35 isn't going to work on 2+ cells?

That would mean the voltage is over that the LED requires, cannot be boosting, but of course that should result in burning the driver or nothing to happen if there is protection added.

beam0 wrote:
This is probably a dumb question i'm sure but are/were all MT-G2 emitters 6v? How does the driver work to put the correct voltage to the LED in multi cell MT-G2 lights, (for example the JM30 that can run on 2 or 3 cells)

Some MT-G2 are 9V, but I am not sure if any manufacturers uses those.

The driver does not put correct voltage, the driver puts constant current and the LED's voltage is maintained based on that current. If the input is ok with both 2 or 3cells then mostly likely the driver is buck.

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I used 3 of the 9V MT-G2 in the BTU Shocker, with it’s 3 cell carrier. I figured the 3 cell configuration had too much current for the 6V emitter, overhead would be too far above, but with the 9V emitters and in 3 parallel it works out quite well.

The MT-G2 is offered in 6V, 9V and 36V.

Hikelite
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DBCstm wrote:
well. The MT-G2 is offered in 6V, 9V and 36V.

Yes 36V also, I forgot about the 36V one since the voltage is so high it is quite non-flashlight friendly.

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wedlpine wrote:
Nicolaas wrote:
It looks great, works on one (good) cell and has a side switch, I allready love it!

+1

+2! Smile

I seriously considered the JM30 but the lack of a side switch and not being able to use one 26650 cell were the deal breakers for me. This really looks nice!

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The Shadow JM35 has arrived to Banggood with MT-G2 or XHP-50 option for $49.95, although it isn’t expected to be actually in stock till 17th of May. I didn’t know it also had a tail switch as well, the Banggood page confuses me. Link here Banggood

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ReAvenger wrote:
The Shadow JM35 has arrived to Banggood with MT-G2 or XHP-50 option for $49.95, although it isn't expected to be actually in stock till 17th of May. I didn't know it also had a tail switch as well, the Banggood page confuses me. Link here "Banggood":http://www.banggood.com/Shadow-JM35-Upgrade-CREE-MT-G2XHP-50-1900LM-LED-...

interesting..

CNQG left, BG right.

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Well, it looks like they haven taken up my idea do combine the head of the new JM35 with the batt. tube of the BTU STR1.
A normal switch for on/off and the side button for mode selection would be nice indeed.

Grtz
Nico

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Nicolaas wrote:
Well, it looks like they haven taken up my idea do combine the head of the new JM35 with the batt. tube of the BTU STR1.

Isn’t it the batt. tube of the JM30?

Or are those the same?

This is great, I guess that’s what the “upgrade” is? Now it will have a lockout switch for parasitic drain.

I think I will be getting this and the JM30 Body Extension Tube. I will make up a 26650 dummy battery because I like a longer handle for home use along with the option to convert to a shorty for pocket carry. So happy I waited and didn’t get the JM30, side switch and single cell option were the only things missing.

Now we just need M4DM4X to get us a discount code! Wink

 

Nicolaas
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I do think that this is a clear case of lego…..don’t have the JM30 but the batt tube of the STR1 looks exactly the same.

Grtz
Nico

Bytheway: Me buying a JM35 will have to be postponed a little while because the “Wonderfull & Intelligent Financial Executive” (aka W.I.F.E.) has strongly advised me to postpone this due to the number of ongoing projects and recent purchases…… Silly Wink :_(

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I’m in doubt of which one I should choose (the JM30 or JM35), I want to be able to use one and two batteries…
Anyone know yet if we will be able to use two 26650 batteris (with extension tube) in this one?

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I am looking longingly at this Shadow JM35 (1xMTG2), or SL3 (3xXM-L2). Both available from Ric @ CNQG/EDC-Light.
Still undecided between these – any kind advice?!

Does anyone know if the SL-3 currently stocked by CNQG/EDC-Light is the very latest version, with the improved anodising and spring contact in the head? (As pictured here: https://www.fasttech.com/product/1359103-shadow-sl3-3-cree-xm-l2-4-mode-...)

I have asked Ric by email but responses are sometimes quite slow. Nice guy and shop to do business with though so far.

Currently waiting to see if M4D M4X might be able to get a code – if so could justify getting the JM35 from BangGood instead…

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any reviews?

FL Newbie

M4D M4X
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39 usd… Wink

details Come later

PLEASE NOTE
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maybe M4D M4X will return one day, but until then:

THANK YOU FOR YEARS OF YOUR SUPPORT AND FRIENDLY CONTACTS!

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