TIR mod for Olight S15, S20 (S10 would work too)

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xelario's picture
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Joined: 04/25/2014 - 05:50
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Location: EU
TIR mod for Olight S15, S20 (S10 would work too)

A little backstory…

A few years back Fenix E05 made me fall in love with “wall of light” TIR optics. I’ve since put them in Convoy S2+ hosts and was very happy with the results (a bit of info and pictures in this thread).

I also love Baton series of lights. I enjoyed my S15 so much I got another, just in case Wink But the second one had even more noticeable green tint, and after some deliberation (scared to destroy my not-so-budget light), I decided to try and put in a different LED. And I did, XM-L2 U2 1A on Noctigon worked, the tint changed to the rosy side, light survived, great success!

Fast forward to the present, I was trying to find a use for my SolarStorm SC01 (that horrible PWM in low mode kills it for me), thought maybe if I put it on my bicycle when I ride in daylight I’ll be less likely to see the actual beam and notice the PWM? But a light with a TIR, like my Convoy S2+ would be better in case it gets dark before I’m back… And bam, I got an idea: the head diameters of SC01 and S2+ look similar, would the same TIR fit? But wait, SC01’s head looks exactly like S15’s, and I already had it opened, so I decided to try that, instead. And it fits! The only thing I can’t stop thinking about is why in the world I couldn’t connect the dots earlier? Big Smile

It fits, but not quite. You have to do some work for the bezel to screw back tight. Forgot to mention I also have an S20, didn’t like the green tint (again) and smooth reflector, so I put a TIR in it, too. Here’s a picture with modded S15 on the left and S20 on the right:

As you can see, the TIR is a bit too long. The gap is bigger in S15 because of the thicker Noctigon board. Not a problem a little sandpaper can’t fix. For S15 I used P80 grit to get some material off fast, finished with P800 grit. S20 only needed P800. Here’s an original one compared to one sanded to fit the S15:

I didn’t measure, but I’d say it’s about 1-1.5mm difference, a lot less for S20.
The result:

Love that red Noctigon shining through Smile

If you want to try this on your S10, S15, S20, first get a TIR of your liking. I used this one from LEDDNA (they have 10, 25, 45 and 60 degree TIRs, also elliptical, frosted ones, whatever floats your boat).

Now you need to unscrew the bezel, remove the glass lens, o-ring and unscrew the reflector. When I did the emitter swap on S15, I needed to also remove the pill, and this guide helped me out. But if you’re only installing the TIR, I’d suggest to try and leave the pill in place, because that way you’re decreasing the chances of breaking the switch: removing the pill shaves off a piece of silicone button “leg”. I fixed it by sticking the cut piece in place with tape:

So if you don’t want to risk it, try it the way I did with the S20.

1. Unscrew the bezel. Method that worked for me is well described in the already mentioned guide:

Firelight2 wrote:
Use one of those rubber pads from the grocery store used to open stuck jars. Hold the light in your right hand and the pad in the palm of your left hand. Press the bezel into the pad firmly and unscrew. It should come right off with no possibility of scratching the bezel.

I used a peace of old bicycle inner tube as my rubber pad. S15 was hard to crack open, S20 was a breeze, so your mileage may vary.

2. Remove the lens and o-ring. These lights use a custom o-ring which wraps around the glass lens, so they usually come out together. I simply hit the light on the table bezel down a few times until they reached the end and I could remove them Shocked

3. Unscrew the reflector. The reflector is screwed into the pill which contains the driver. I lucked out it wasn’t screwed in very hard and just used my fingers to carefully unscrew it. Yes, there were some fingerprints left on the edges, but a simple cloth helped to remove them well, also I wasn’t planning on using the reflector ever again anyway.

4. Sand down and put in the TIR. As I mentioned, for tiny adjustments you’ll need to do P800 grit or similar super fine sandpaper works well.

5. Screw the bezel back on and you’re done. There’s no o-ring anymore, so waterproofness might take a hit, if that’s a concern for you.

That’s all, folks!

MRsDNF's picture
Last seen: 2 months 5 days ago
Joined: 12/22/2011 - 21:18
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Location: A light beam away from the missus in the land of Aus.

Thanks for sharing the mod.Its a shame the boot tears when they are pulled apart.


djozz quotes, "it came with chinese lettering that is chinese to me".

                      "My man mousehole needs one too"

old4570 said "I'm not an expert , so don't suffer from any such technical restrictions".

Old-Lumens. Highly admired and cherished member of Budget Light Forum. 11.5.2011 - 20.12.16. RIP.


keithd's picture
Last seen: 1 year 7 months ago
Joined: 04/12/2014 - 00:35
Posts: 803

Given that they are a close copy, I wonder if the Solarstorm SC0* series would work with this, especially the smaller SC03. Also the BLF A6.

edit – I’m an idiot, especially past bedtime. You already pretty much said that in the beginning. Wink

ChibiM's picture
Last seen: 20 hours 41 min ago
Joined: 05/09/2011 - 10:25
Posts: 7039
Location: Holland

Some great ideas! Thanks for trying and sharing.

DBSAR's picture
Last seen: 6 days 16 hours ago
Joined: 02/11/2013 - 23:28
Posts: 6467
Location: Newfoundland, Canada

I did the same mod to both my S20 and S15, and my brothers S15 last year eliminate the green tint of the beam. (Also added Xm-L2 4C emitters to improve them even more.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

xelario's picture
Last seen: 1 year 5 months ago
Joined: 04/25/2014 - 05:50
Posts: 388
Location: EU
MRsDNF wrote:

Thanks for sharing the mod.Its a shame the boot tears when they are pulled apart.

Maybe it’s possible to remove the switch from the outside, I don’t know. Thankfully my clear tape fix works good enough, can’t tell the difference.

DBSAR wrote:
I did the same mod to both my S20 and S15, and my brothers S15 last year eliminate the green tint of the beam. (Also added Xm-L2 4C emitters to improve them even more.

Yeah, I’ll change the emitter to something more neutral sometime in the future. Haven’t decided on a particular tint yet.

Gunga's picture
Last seen: 4 hours 45 sec ago
Joined: 11/28/2014 - 16:56
Posts: 2144
Location: Vancouver, Canada

Thanks for this awesome thread! I got a great deal on an S15R. And now I love it. I put in a Nichia 219B on noctigon (does that part of the button get sliced off every time?). And I’m using a 45 degree optic for a nice fat hot spot. I don’t like bare optics but they are cheap I guess. I didn’t file it, used an orange oring to fill the gap and increase water proofing. Love it. I even put in a trit in the tail lanyard hole. It’s well shielded in norland.

JohnnyMac's picture
Last seen: 6 days 20 hours ago
Joined: 04/12/2011 - 16:03
Posts: 8879
Location: Eastern PA

Excellent information, Xelario!  It's a mod I may do to my S20 one day as well.  One thing I found very interesting is the pill itself from the Olights is EXACTLY the same as used in the ThruNite Archer series of lights.  I would have bet money the one in your photo was from an Archer if you hadn't specified it was from the Olight. Smile