Author: Jim Conner. Youtube link: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cUpJs6Z41YM
I'm impressed. Perfect to make a bigass external laptop battery pack from a 4S li-ion battery, for example. A shiteload of runtime for cheap where needed. :THUMBS-UP:
Just posting this because, on top of that, it is possible to get it for $10 or very little more. Yeah!
Cheers ^:)
P.S.: had to edit this because too much fellows mis-crediting me for it. Fixed.
Do you have a link to it Barkuti? Great video by the way thanks :+1:
Available nearly everywhere: Aliexpress, eBay, Banggood, etc.
Some hot links:
Its performance and accuracy is noteworthy.
Cheers ^:)
P.D.: I didn't made the video, but since the stuff is so good I thought it would be a good idea to post this. 
I have the same one, using it to run a CXA 3070 led from a 12V source.
This one is a good one (a keeper , as Barkuti said...) , BUT , because I have 2 of these and played a lot with its , I'll have some suggestions to make in order to be able to achive about 400 real Watts !
First of all change the inductor core with a bigger one (I used a core T184-52 ) , just be careful to use the same 52 material for the core !. Bigger the thoroid , better results !
Second in row , use some copper wire larger in diameter , or use 2 parallel wires , but the same number of turns (a bigger thoroid will make your work easier ..).
A small heat sink on the integrated stabilizer circuit will work better at higher input voltages.
This particular circuit has some problems of stability if you try to use it with small differences between input and output (example : input:26V ; output:35V ; current limit 3A , trying to power a 100 W led , I got a strobe light !)
On higher power demands ,you'll need to use a small fan for the heat sink.
In rest , Barkuti was right (as always , right?)
Whaaat? Are you sure you didn't left strobe mode on? 
That's really weird. Maybe your unit has some sort of damage/issue somewhere?
There's also another fact, this unit has been available for quite some time already. Maybe there are up to a handful of minor variations of it.
Not gonna comment on that last quote of yours, because @#$% and etc.
Oh! “That one is a keeper!” is a claim from the reviewer, credits to him.
Cheers ^:)
The one with "strobe mode" is a good one.., I like your humor !
I didn't mean to be sarcastic, but if it looked like , I do apologize...
I had seen this video about 2 years ago when I first purchase this boost converter , and tried everything that was described in the video.
Both of my modules behave the same , in similar condition , so , I doubt that was a faulty ones . But the claim of 600W is just theoretical , it means 60Volts and 10 Amps INPUT (!!!!).., just a little weird way of calculate the power , for a boost converter.
For us , the ones that are using these , mostly for led powering the 600W claimed , means only a 120W with 12 V input , 240 W with 24V input .., and so on.., because of the 10Amps limit input , and believe me , at 10 A , the coil was 105 degrees centigrade , the heat sink to 85 and rising...
The whole story is just to understand the real limitations of this module and ways to improve it , because , basically , is a very good booster.
I hope I didn't bored you too much...
Does this one do current limiting or is it a constant current one? I wanne use it to power my laptop from 12V. So it needs to be constant voltage and current limiting. I see 2 blue potentiometers(?) so I’m afraid it’s constant current.
Please post you channel in my topic about BLF and family youtubebchannel I like to add it in the OP 
[quote=dekozn]
Does this one do current limiting or is it a constant current one? I wanne use it to power my laptop from 12V. So it needs to be constant voltage and current limiting. I see 2 blue potentiometers(?) so I'm afraid it's constant current.
[/quote]
dekozn, could you please try to explain what the h1ll are you trying to imply? 
A CC/CV power supply will limit itself to its adjusted output voltage up to the tuned in current, at which point it will reduce the voltage as much as required to limit the current. Thus, if you select your desired maximum current (CC trimpot) and 12V as output voltage (CV trimpot), that's all you need.
Nonetheless, I see no point in current limiting whatever to feed a laptop, the device will just pull whatever it needs. Don't mess with the CC trimmer I'd say, just give it clean stable constant voltage.
Cheers ^:)
P.S.: The Miller, go to youtube and message the video author, it wasn't me. ;-)
Unfortunately, there’s a lot of ambiguity in terminology for this stuff. What people call CC / CV for “constant current / constant voltage” in power supplies would be better described as something like TV / MC for “target voltage / maximum current” in my view. We’ll never change it now, though - just like electrons ended up flowing the “wrong way” through circuits 
For anyone who wasn’t aware, you can get constant current sources that raise or lower their output voltage in order to maintain a fixed current into a varying load. Think of them as the other side of the coin to a simple voltage regulator (i.e. constant voltage source) that sources a higher or lower output current in order to maintain a fixed voltage over a varying load. The voltage regulator is a much more common application, though.
That’s what I mean: I got a buck/boost module that limits/lowers the output voltage to keep the output current constant. That cannot be good for feeding into my laptop. I connected that module to a 12V accu and setup to 19V 2A. When Iplugged the output into my laptop the voltage dropped slowly but current stayed 2A.
My question is if this module works the same way (I know the one from op is just boost but that shouldn’t matter) or does it maintain output voltage and lowers current as needed. I need one that maintains output voltage.
Thanks Barkuti. I appreciate your video. How hot does the inductor get during heavy load? (I’ve tried using an XL6009 boost converter to power an XHP35 LED with a 2S battery and the inductor gets HOT (>80C) at 1.5A output.
dekozn…
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Why are you messing with the CC trimpot? Just raise it to the freakin' ∞. Thanks.
Your laptop likes this. 
Cheers 
No he doesn’t and the module either both ran hot
Well dekozn, this may be of interest to you:
Seems you're trying to use the module in a similar paradigm, and it incurs in the issue mentioned by cera@1967. Is it?
Cheers ^:)
Nonono, I haven’t expressed myself right. I got a totaly different module. My module has 3 trimpots for example and can be used for charging Liion batteries for example. I just tried it out to charge my laptop as a test cause I had it laying around my module
I am asking how the module in the OP behaves.
But if the module in the op has problems with boosting a variable input from 14to12v to a constant 19V output well then it’s crap in my book and I have no need for it.
Wow! What a ripoff! I just can't condone overpaying to middlemans/middlewomans, and eBay is filled with 'em. Take a peek: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/LM2577S-LM2596S-DC-DC-Step-Up-Down-Boost-Buck-Voltage-Power-Converter-Module/32785440068.html
That module may not have enough power delivery for your computer. If you need a different boost/buck unit, I have these on my wishlist:
Cheers 
I have had a few modules like the one you picture to the left, they all kicked the bucket after a few weeks/months. Although I’m not sure that they had 2 trimpods, IIRC there was just 1trimpot.
But now I still don’t know how the module in the OP behaves. Is it or is it not a constant voltage that limits the current to keep the output voltage constant and is it reliable to give a constant 19V output when connected to a 12V battery?
dekozn, more than probably there's something you don't seem to comprehend in these matters. So let me explain the basics.
According to Ohm's law, I = V / R, where R represents the total circuit impedance (source + load) to current flow which, for the sake of simplicity here, we'll assume it to be the load resistance. Since the load resistance is the load's business, it is easy to understand that the only parameter the source can control is its voltage output level. Because of this, when I read what you said before…
tad nonsensical, bear in mind.
Anyway, take a look here: Marty's Techno Blog Software Engineer - MingHe buck/boost converters – handy, if you’re careful!
The device seems to be called D3806 (and DPS3806 too). Advisable to disconnect the load on power down first to avoid voltage overshoots.
Cheers ^:)