Lexel wrote: “I am working on a CFT-90 driver for GT”.
Hmmmmmm…..I think I already know where part of my holiday allowance will go to
Djozz and I did some measurements this evening, at 21, 13 and 8 meters.
Djozz’ light performs quite a lot less less then mine, so we measured only my light at all three distances.
And Djozz has his work cut out to find out what’s wrong with his light.
Results:
Djozz light: 21 mtr = 832.167Cd
My light at 21 mtr = 1.142.190Cd
Mine at 13 mtr = 1.139.060Cd
Mine at 8 mtr = 1.142.336Cd
(We measured with Djozz’ calibrated Gossen Luxmeter and deducted the ambient light @ 61Cd).
At first I was baffled by the lower readings at higher distances and thought it might have to do with the convergance of the light but I saw others posting
similar results, so……it looks like the BLF GT is already fully focussed at 8 meters.
1.142.336Cd is not bad, not bad at all, but still a little bit lower then I had hoped for.
So, thinking of replacing the led with the latest bin and maybe giving it a little more power as well, say 2,8A instead of 2,5A.
Then again, a custom Lexel driver and a CFT-90 might be really nice as well
Cheers and wishing you all very bright days and nights,
Nico
I would like to mod my GT with an XHP70.2, someone can kindly tell me which resistor to replace on the original driver, and possibly which value to use?
Thanks.
Driving a XHP70 with just a 0.047 Ohm resistor will be disappointing at 6V
This would result in 5A
Also switching frequency would not be ideal, the diode would be quite close to its limit
I changed the Inductor, MOSFET, capacitors and diode with better parts for higher currents also the switching frequency will be set to a point where the drivers efficiency gets optimal
Also reducing the current sense resistor and lowering the current control voltage divider helps reducing heat
I should get next week the 20-40A synchronous Buck driver boards that I developed for CFT-90 and going to assemble and test the first prototype
With an xp-g* why not just use one cell per holder and use a bit of wire as a jumper, that way you can easily revert back to standard, same with two cells for 6v leds, and use three cells for those hard driven 6v leds Cheers David
I would like to mod my GT with an XHP70.2, someone can kindly tell me which resistor to replace on the original driver, and possibly which value to use?
Thanks.
Driving a XHP70 with just a 0.047 Ohm resistor will be disappointing at 6V
This would result in 5A
Also switching frequency would not be ideal, the diode would be quite close to its limit
I changed the Inductor, MOSFET, capacitors and diode with better parts for higher currents also the switching frequency will be set to a point where the drivers efficiency gets optimal
Also reducing the current sense resistor and lowering the current control voltage divider helps reducing heat
I should get next week the 20-40A synchronous Buck driver boards that I developed for CFT-90 and going to assemble and test the first prototype
I was thinking in driving the XHP-70.2 LED at 12v not 6v, but I have decided to wait until a better driver is available…
Dr. Meter released the LX1330B , and later the other no-name LX1330B appeared . I don’t know if the internal components and it’s calibration are the same or not .
The first test of the XHP70.2 driver for the GT went well tonight. We just need to figure out how to bypass the carrier button top springs.
Some tweaking is needed but at least it works. More will come as I have time.
Maybe awg 22-24 outside the spring will fit under the brass button , haven’t tried it .
For a DIY setup there are a few possible options but they are not simple. I am trying to find a more consistent option that is simpler.
Worst case this is what we might have to do.
I have the worst case situation setup in the GT right now with the ultra low Vf 80cri 4000k emitter. I am going to do some testing and see what the limits of the system are. I am worried that it could overdrive the emitter as it maxes out lower then P2 bin emitters.
I am testing a Texas Avenger driver for the xhp70.2. Since the GT is so large it was pointed out that we might as well give it all the power.
The stock buck driver is good for around 6A, which is good enough but also leaves a few thousand lumens on the table with a P2 bin emitter that maxes out around 10-12A (at 12V).
I plan to order a P2 emitter for testing this weekend or next week.
In the early test I am guessing it was around ~7A but I was only using laptop cells since I did not want to melt the springs. With high drain cells it would be a lot more power.
Properly setup I am guessing it will be around ~10A+ with high drain cells and bypassed springs on a P2 emitter. That should be good for over 9k lumens (possibly peaking over 10k lumens for the first few seconds).
Lexel wrote: “I am working on a CFT-90 driver for GT”.
Hmmmmmm…..I think I already know where part of my holiday allowance will go to
Djozz and I did some measurements this evening, at 21, 13 and 8 meters.
Djozz’ light performs quite a lot less less then mine, so we measured only my light at all three distances.
And Djozz has his work cut out to find out what’s wrong with his light.
Results:
Djozz light: 21 mtr = 832.167Cd
My light at 21 mtr = 1.142.190Cd
Mine at 13 mtr = 1.139.060Cd
Mine at 8 mtr = 1.142.336Cd
(We measured with Djozz’ calibrated Gossen Luxmeter and deducted the ambient light @ 61Cd).
At first I was baffled by the lower readings at higher distances and thought it might have to do with the convergance of the light but I saw others posting
similar results, so……it looks like the BLF GT is already fully focussed at 8 meters.
1.142.336Cd is not bad, not bad at all, but still a little bit lower then I had hoped for.
So, thinking of replacing the led with the latest bin and maybe giving it a little more power as well, say 2,8A instead of 2,5A.
Then again, a custom Lexel driver and a CFT-90 might be really nice as well
Cheers and wishing you all very bright days and nights,
Nico
Driving a XHP70 with just a 0.047 Ohm resistor will be disappointing at 6V
This would result in 5A
Also switching frequency would not be ideal, the diode would be quite close to its limit
I changed the Inductor, MOSFET, capacitors and diode with better parts for higher currents also the switching frequency will be set to a point where the drivers efficiency gets optimal
Also reducing the current sense resistor and lowering the current control voltage divider helps reducing heat
I should get next week the 20-40A synchronous Buck driver boards that I developed for CFT-90 and going to assemble and test the first prototype
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
Did someone find transparent 12/14mm switch covers?
I find only green and orange in the chineese flashlight shops
[Reviews] Miboxer C4-12, C2-4k+6k, C2, C4 / Astrolux K1, MF01, MF02, S42, K01, TI3A / BLF Q8 / Kalrus G35, XT11GT / Nitefox UT20 / Niwalker BK-FA30S / Sofirn SF36, SP35 / Imalent DM21TW / Wuben I333 / Ravemen PR1200 / CL06 lantern / Xanes headlamp
[Mods] Skilhunt H03 short / Klarus XT11GT, XT12GTS / Zebralight SC50+ / Imalent DM21TW / colorful anodisation
[Sale]
Drivers: overview of sizes and types
DD+AMC based drivers Anduril or Bistro OTSM 12-24mm, S42, 24-30mm L6, Q8, MF01(S), MT03, TN42
Anduril or Bistro 8A buck driver for 20-30mm, MF01/02/04, TN40/42, Lumintop GT, MT09R
UVC and UVC+UVA drivers
programming key
Remote switch tail DD board with FET
Aux boards:
Emisar D1, D1S, D4, D4S, D18, Lumintop FW3A, Fireflies ROT66, Astrolux MF01, Tail boards like S2+
The only ones I know
13.6×6.3mm https://goo.gl/V3LJqr (it goes against my principles, but the link does not work without shortening it, sorry)
14×8mm http://kaidomain.com/p/S024710.Silicone-Tailcaps-14mm-x-8mm-Transparent
.
Sorry for my bad English (gogole transtorla)
Or buy the solarforce dummy batteries.
I got a higher reading at 15 meters when compared to a 10 meter throwing distance when I tested my GT.
Hardusvd70
Yes, most get higher readings are 15-20m.
If you do not then that is usually a sign that there is too much particulate in the air, be it humidity, dirt, dust, pollen ect.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
I was thinking in driving the XHP-70.2 LED at 12v not 6v, but I have decided to wait until a better driver is available…
Speaking of said better driver. I have the parts incoming to test the prototype XHP70.2 TA driver for the GT next week if all goes well.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
First in line when you start selling…
Also getting a prototype XHP70.2 mcpcb to test as well.
Really pressing for them to make these for modders.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Thanks Ta , this is awesome !
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
Lux reading at 7 meter throwing distance for BLF GT.
1.163Mcd which give a throwing distance of 2157 meters.
.
.
Measured at 20 meters. 1.153Mcd
.
.
Thrunite TN42.
Measured at 10 meter 701Kcd
Hardusvd70
TN42 should be doing 750-800.
I would recommend investing in a real luxmeter.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
NO 750Kcd to 800Kcd is much much too high for a non mod TN42.
Hardusvd70
Where did you get that from? Highest number I’ve seen is 728.. The rest hover around 700.
You’re right, my bad, it’s 700-750.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
Any suggestions?
I see 720Kcd from my TN42.
Read above, but the LX1330B is the best budget luxmeter.
The OPTOFIRE - 4.63Mcd aspheric LED flashlight The SYNIOSBEAM - 10Mcd recoil LED flashlight List of the farthest throwing flashlights
OK,I’ve got it right now from Amazon.de.
I would get the “real” LX1330B (Dr. Meter brand) , but shipping + import fees is 29$ extra !
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
Why do you say the others aren’t real.
Do you have a reason to believe they are different?
Dr. Meter released the LX1330B , and later the other no-name LX1330B appeared . I don’t know if the internal components and it’s calibration are the same or not .
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
The one that TLF tested and found good was actually no-name:
http://www.taschenlampen-forum.de/threads/luxmeter-check-1-6-ger%C3%A4te...
The first test of the XHP70.2 driver for the GT went well tonight. We just need to figure out how to bypass the carrier button top springs.
Some tweaking is needed but at least it works. More will come as I have time.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Maybe awg 22-24 outside the spring will fit under the brass button , haven’t tried it .
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
For a DIY setup there are a few possible options but they are not simple. I am trying to find a more consistent option that is simpler.
Worst case this is what we might have to do.
I have the worst case situation setup in the GT right now with the ultra low Vf 80cri 4000k emitter. I am going to do some testing and see what the limits of the system are. I am worried that it could overdrive the emitter as it maxes out lower then P2 bin emitters.
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
Are you testing a buck driver for xhp70.2 ?
How many amps can provide max ?
- George
My Reviews : KDlight C8 / ThruNite Archer 1A V3 / Thorfire C8s / ThruNite TN12 (2016) / Utorch UT01 / Utorch UT02 / Jetbeam WL-S2 (xp-l) / ThruNite TC12 V2 / Massdrop Brass AAA / Manker LAD / Lumintop SD26 / ThruNite Mini TN30 (3x xm-l2) / Qualilite D81 / Nitecore MH20GT / Odepro TM30 / Klarus XT30R / Nitecore NU20 CRI / Ultrafire XM-L2 / Foursevens Mini MK II / Manker E02 / Manker E14 II / Teekland Flashlights / Lumintop Elfin / Thorfire S70S / ThruNite Neutron 2C / Jaxman M8 / KDLITKER C8.2 / Zanflare F1 / Nitecore Concept 1 / Emisar D4 / Astrolux MF-01 / ThruNite TC10 V3 / Amutorch JM70 (xpl hi)
I am testing a Texas Avenger driver for the xhp70.2. Since the GT is so large it was pointed out that we might as well give it all the power.
The stock buck driver is good for around 6A, which is good enough but also leaves a few thousand lumens on the table with a P2 bin emitter that maxes out around 10-12A (at 12V).
I plan to order a P2 emitter for testing this weekend or next week.
In the early test I am guessing it was around ~7A but I was only using laptop cells since I did not want to melt the springs. With high drain cells it would be a lot more power.
Properly setup I am guessing it will be around ~10A+ with high drain cells and bypassed springs on a P2 emitter. That should be good for over 9k lumens (possibly peaking over 10k lumens for the first few seconds).
Texas Avenger Driver Series
My LED Test series - XP-L2 V5 - Nichia 219C 90+ CRI - Latticebright "XM-L" - XHP35 & PWM efficiency - XHP50 - XP-L V5 - XM-L2 U2 - XP-G3 S5 - XP-L HI V2 - Oslon Square & direct comparison to Djozz tests - Nichia 319A - Nichia 219B 9080 CRI - Nichia 219C D320 - Nichia 229AT - XHP70.2 P2 - XHP50.2 J4 - Samsung LH351D
Easy comparison tool for all my LED tests
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