What should I put this thing in?!
I had a host and ruined it trying to take the old driver out.
Any ideas?
I am looking for an E-SW host too.
No driver mounted side switch.
Most headlamps would be a good start…I recently put a 17mm e-switch driver in a Lumzoo GH10 about a week later RMM put the D4 firmware out there as an option…so it’s got moppydrv. I know the Skilhunt H02 & 3 headlamps are moddable as are the Xtar H3s.
so…. i put my driver in a K2 e switch light.
PROBLEM- seems to work fine but not getting direct drive? ramps up to the end of the regulated chip and wont go brighter.
also blinks like its at max…but not getting brighter.
any help would be great.
everything else works.
I would remove all components from old board.
I know the SW board feeds back to resistors on the old board, among other things. I don’t recall a way to disconnect the Sw board from old driver board without loosing strength.
tried that, no luck.
bypassed switch with one from MTN still not getting brighter after 7135 blink.
Ok so i removed the driver from the other driver so there will not be any controversy between them.
here is a video showing what its doing.
if I saw correct, your batt check is 4.2V.
Just as important is the current (amps) getting to the emitter. Not sure how the ground is connected in the test vid. Leads quality and length and battery may be an issue.
On the K2 the top flat of the body tightened into the head makes the ground on the outer ring.
On the batt side of the original driver, where you soldered the outer ring on the MtnE driver to the OG… that solder point (inner ring) is not the same ring as the outer grounding ring.
Put another way, on the batt side of the original driver… I do not get continuity from the ring you soldered the MtnE driver to and the outer ring.
That inner ring that the MtnE driver is soldered to was a POS contact on the OG board.
From the component side of the outer ring on MtnE driver, I would solder a jumper wire to the outer ring of the OG driver.
were you able to get the cap off the back of the tube body?
If so I would then tighten the tube into head to help the ground contact. Otherwise that aluminum insert does not ground well. Insert a batt into tube and just bridge the neg of batt to the tube for test.
Here is a pic of My spring bypass on the K2. I wedged a punch between the spring coil end to hold apart and clamped the coils (while spread) into vise to hold flat, then stripped and soldered a wire between. Then soldered to top of spring.
I took it completely out of the other driver to eliminate all possible bad connections. It still won’t ramp past 7135.
Even with small wires for testing it should at least try for a second?
Did I get a bad driver?
if you tested it alone on the bench and it didn’t work I would say yes.
Richard did get back to me and is taking care of the preblem.
Man I love good customer service!