35$ on AE…
I already have a C8F – tho first one with triple XP-G3 (now triple 219C)… pretty rare light, huh?
I will buy this one, also.
One can never have too many C8s.
Nice review Dale and great pics! I got my version last week and put a D4 V2 driver in it. Had to alter the lighted e-switch switch, it was making the driver do silly things!
Great light, love the ramping!
Hey KB,
What did you alter on the SW and why do you think it causes the wonky driver?
Considering the D4 UI driver too with lighted SW on the C8F and ther lights.
Did you keep the OTC or remove it?
Nice review Dale and great pics! I got my version last week and put a D4 V2 driver in it. Had to alter the lighted e-switch switch, it was making the driver do silly things!
Great light, love the ramping!
Hey KB,
What did you alter on the SW and why do you think it causes the wonky driver?
Considering the D4 UI driver too with lighted SW on the C8F and ther lights.
Did you keep the OTC or remove it?
Kept it. Removed the resistors and LED’s, they share a common ground with the switch. Had the Green Led’s working. looked cool behind the smoked button. Driver would just blink and ramping was screwed. Look at the back of the switch, there are only 3 contacts, 2 switch 1 LED.
Nice review Dale!
Yes I talked with Sofirn and currently I’m waiting for a C8F host and some XP-L2 leds from kaidomain
I will make some FET+1 driver with Narsil in it.
Narsil needs a specific hardware design to work in addition to the Attiny85. This driver is completely different. Best option might be to replace with a Lexel driver with NarsilM or a MTNELEC driver with RampingIOS (used on D4 lights). Assuming the emitters can handle it, of course.
—
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
The HI emitter really needs the reflector tailored to it, without special attention to it’s placement the beam can have some ugly colorations and not give a nice beam at all. I’ve had my own ups and downs with the HI, find it works decently behind optics but can be a real bear to get perfect in a great many reflectors.
So, let me get this straight… y’all expect an entry level company to come in with UI’s like the high dollar proprietary firms? Interesting. $80 lights for $30 huh? And this is realistic, how?
I’ve dealt with hundreds of lights, and I suppose you wouldn’t guess that some of those named lights are my least favorite. ZebraLight I’ve never bought, I do have one, never use it as it’s UI is freakishly weird to me. (You know that’s a personal opinion, right?) Armytek, well, they’re the only major brand name light that has ever taken MY PHOTO’s and used them in their Facebook ad without asking. Also have a weird UI that frustrates me every time I try to use the one headlamp of theirs I have. And while I do like Olights, they tend to be somewhat stuck on their designs and are proprietarily overpriced for the most part. I have seem them doing some amazing things to help a “family” member and they’ve given some nice discounts in the past few months so I can’t complain about em too much. The last one I got though, I pulled their emitter and changed it within a couple of hours of receipt.
All to one’s personal taste, of course, but for me the major players make major mistakes in their UI. But that’s only my own personal finding after dealing with some 5 or 600 lights…. My own memory issues directly influence the UI preference I choose, so of course that is my own opinion and everyone else has theirs. (I can say this kind of thing in my own thread, right? )
I’m not too big of a fan of most of the major players engineering myself. I swear that at times it’s as if they have a minimum of three engineers working on each product demanding that their input be included whether it helps the final product or not. Over-engineered is putting it mildly.
This new light seems like a winner to me. I’ve made a few C8 triples myself over the years using the reflectors out of cheap headlights and they are nice lights to have around but they are a lot of work to make and I can’t make them even close to as cheap as these.
As for the UI, it’s got more going on than most of the local guys I sell/gift lights to want. Outside of us flashaholics most people are more than content with three or four modes so long as they work without flickering. I always try and remember that a ton of people are used to having a flashlight with two modes (on and off, lol) and were perfectly content with them that way. I actually get far more complaints about my lights if I try and go with a UI that is overly complicated to use. People think the light is broken when they can’t get it to do what they want and just try and explain that it’s user error. So you are absolutely correct everyone has their own opinion on what makes a UI the best. If I was giving them my input it would be to also offer the light with a simple four mode, from moonlight to turbo. Maybe something like TomE’s early circular one or even a simple ramping and nothing more.
Great review by the way.
Oh and forgive me if I missed it, but was there any parasitic drain on this light?
—
I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.
Yup. I’ve been wanting the measure the parasitic drain on my illuminated tailcaps but unfortunately my DMM’s resolution for amps doesn’t go that low. For that reason I’ve been debating about picking up one of the ZT102 that I see codes popping up for around $10. It supposedly measures down into the uA range.
I used a Mastech multimeter set at 20m? or 20u? and it showed between 9.8 and 10.7, is that the milliOhm’s?
I also removed the pcb in the tail cap and pulled the spring from it, removed the small gauge wire bypass and soldered the spring onto a copper disc, put a 20ga wire bypass in. And it made no difference in the lumens readings. So the stock pcb and spring/bypass are as good as it gets.
Oh, I also filed the anodization off the end of the head and also cleaned it off the shoulder on the battery tube, so the ground path is direct in that tight junction…. the end of the battery tube doesn’t quite seat down onto the shelf around the driver. This effort produced just about as much gain as the copper in the tail cap, in other words, nothing. Still makes the same output as before I did all that.
(Essentially, in other words, they already have it working great and most of the tricks and tweaks produce nil.)
Ok, so I went back and also put a 20ga Turnigy bypass on the driver, now, with the highest performing SonyVTC5A it’s making 4378.05 lumens out the front.
Tracy tells me that her engineers informed her that the XP-L Neutral White emitters are V6 2D or 2C. I like em, they’re just a tad bit whiter than a 3D and that works beautifully to my eye.
I think the only way to get more out of this light is to go with XP-L2’s, not intending to change it though as I like it very much as it is right now. The UI works for me, easy enough to get directly to moon or Turbo and in between are 5 useable modes… a bit of a jump between 2 and 3 but it’s fine.
Edit: I can remember being excited to get 4000 lumens from the quite large TK75, and again to get that much from the 4 headed Black Shadow Terminator… This C8 is doing what yesterday’s big boss lights did! How cool is THAT?!
Hmmm, that UI sounds like a pain. Couldn’t they make it one click on/off, press and hold to cycle through the brightness settings? Dbl click for turbo. Have memory stay on all the time.
It still looks like a good host for a TA fet driver, though. Wire up the switch leds so you know when the tail cap is tight or loose. It might give my modded supfire a run for its money.
Maybe you can try the SP32A. 2 Light Groups (6 brightness levels and dimming), with memory, one click on and double clicks for turbo. Here is the code and link.
—
Sofirn is owned by a factory. Contact us for any lights you would like to make or to become a Sofirn dealer
Doug, It handles the heat surprisingly well. The MCPCB is a large copper DTP, I confirmed that it is in fact Direct Thermal Path, and the shelf is pretty thick under this piece. The head has proper fins and also has the mass of the 3 protrubences that make the C8 what it is. Sure, it’ll warm up given some run time on Turbo, but it takes a bit longer than I would have thought.
The top cell I’ve found is the Sony VTC5A, other cells won’t push it as hard and so the heat and run time will of course be affected in a positive way with a lower discharge capability and higher capacity. Like with our FET drivers, it’s pretty easy to control the parameters by proper cell choice.
35$ on AE…
I already have a C8F – tho first one with triple XP-G3 (now triple 219C)… pretty rare light, huh?
I will buy this one, also.
One can never have too many C8s.
Hey KB,
What did you alter on the SW and why do you think it causes the wonky driver?
Considering the D4 UI driver too with lighted SW on the C8F and ther lights.
Did you keep the OTC or remove it?
View BLF with NO Commercials Here!
btw
Where can I get the D4 driver from?
I love this Ui and I love Side-Switch-Only lights
Probably Mountain Electronics. Richard also has other drivers that he can flash with the D4 firmware.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Kept it. Removed the resistors and LED’s, they share a common ground with the switch. Had the Green Led’s working. looked cool behind the smoked button. Driver would just blink and ramping was screwed. Look at the back of the switch, there are only 3 contacts, 2 switch 1 LED.
KB1428 “Live Life WOT”
Nice review Dale!
Yes I talked with Sofirn and currently I’m waiting for a C8F host and some XP-L2 leds from kaidomain
I will make some FET+1 driver with Narsil in it.
Reviews: Olight Seeker2 pro, Lumintop GlowI, Sofirn SP36, Convoy 4X18A, Convoy M21C, Brinyte SR8 Rescue Angel, Astrolux MF01 mini, Astrolux FT03S, YLP Sherp S15, Sofirn SP40, YLP Panda 3R and Unicorn, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Acebeam M50, Imalent MS18, Convoy M3, Nitecore TIP2, Imalent RT70, Wuben T70, Sofirn SP32A, Thorfire VG15S, Thorfire VG10S, Thorfire TG06S
Mods: Imalent MS18 dedoming, Astrolux MF01-20K, Small sun T08 MT-G2, Eagle eye X6 triple XPL, Ultrafire F13 MT-G2, Convoy C8 XHP70, Solarstorm T3 triple XP-L HI
Big flashlight measurement and beamshot collection
3D printing stuff for flashlights
My flashlight related Instagram
My Flashlight related Youtube channel called Zozzlights
Can original driver be flash with narsil?
There’s no Attiny 85 on that driver to flash.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
Ok thanks forgot to look at picture of driver
Narsil needs a specific hardware design to work in addition to the Attiny85. This driver is completely different. Best option might be to replace with a Lexel driver with NarsilM or a MTN ELEC driver with RampingIOS (used on D4 lights). Assuming the emitters can handle it, of course.
Texas Ace Lumen Tube and JoshK Sphere calibrated with Maukka lights
Click this to go to signature links. I'm still around, just not reading many new threads.
I’m not too big of a fan of most of the major players engineering myself. I swear that at times it’s as if they have a minimum of three engineers working on each product demanding that their input be included whether it helps the final product or not. Over-engineered is putting it mildly.
This new light seems like a winner to me. I’ve made a few C8 triples myself over the years using the reflectors out of cheap headlights and they are nice lights to have around but they are a lot of work to make and I can’t make them even close to as cheap as these.
As for the UI, it’s got more going on than most of the local guys I sell/gift lights to want. Outside of us flashaholics most people are more than content with three or four modes so long as they work without flickering. I always try and remember that a ton of people are used to having a flashlight with two modes (on and off, lol) and were perfectly content with them that way. I actually get far more complaints about my lights if I try and go with a UI that is overly complicated to use. People think the light is broken when they can’t get it to do what they want and just try and explain that it’s user error. So you are absolutely correct everyone has their own opinion on what makes a UI the best. If I was giving them my input it would be to also offer the light with a simple four mode, from moonlight to turbo. Maybe something like TomE’s early circular one or even a simple ramping and nothing more.
Great review by the way.
Oh and forgive me if I missed it, but was there any parasitic drain on this light?
I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.
Yah, well, tell that to my C8 army… Sometimes they make me nervous.
(I’m surrounded.)
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.
09 F9 11 02 9D 74 E3 5B D8 41 56 C5 63 56 88 C0
LOL
I’m a junky, I mod lights so I can sell lights so I can buy more light to mod so I can sell lights to buy more lights to mod.
LOL LOL LOL
Doug S.
To be honest, I don’t remember how to check for parasitic drain.
meter inline, or pass through meter between power supply.
May be a better way but that is what I have done.
Not all meters have mA or less capability.
View BLF with NO Commercials Here!
Yup. I’ve been wanting the measure the parasitic drain on my illuminated tailcaps but unfortunately my DMM’s resolution for amps doesn’t go that low. For that reason I’ve been debating about picking up one of the ZT102 that I see codes popping up for around $10. It supposedly measures down into the uA range.
Excellent review thanks! I’m also reviewing this hope to have it done soon.
I used a Mastech multimeter set at 20m? or 20u? and it showed between 9.8 and 10.7, is that the milliOhm’s?
I also removed the pcb in the tail cap and pulled the spring from it, removed the small gauge wire bypass and soldered the spring onto a copper disc, put a 20ga wire bypass in. And it made no difference in the lumens readings. So the stock pcb and spring/bypass are as good as it gets.
Ok, so whatever this means that’s how much parasitic drain it has.
Oh, I also filed the anodization off the end of the head and also cleaned it off the shoulder on the battery tube, so the ground path is direct in that tight junction…. the end of the battery tube doesn’t quite seat down onto the shelf around the driver. This effort produced just about as much gain as the copper in the tail cap, in other words, nothing. Still makes the same output as before I did all that.
(Essentially, in other words, they already have it working great and most of the tricks and tweaks produce nil.)
Ok, so I went back and also put a 20ga Turnigy bypass on the driver, now, with the highest performing SonyVTC5A it’s making 4378.05 lumens out the front.
Tracy tells me that her engineers informed her that the XP-L Neutral White emitters are V6 2D or 2C. I like em, they’re just a tad bit whiter than a 3D and that works beautifully to my eye.
I think the only way to get more out of this light is to go with XP-L2’s, not intending to change it though as I like it very much as it is right now. The UI works for me, easy enough to get directly to moon or Turbo and in between are 5 useable modes… a bit of a jump between 2 and 3 but it’s fine.
Edit: I can remember being excited to get 4000 lumens from the quite large TK75, and again to get that much from the 4 headed Black Shadow Terminator… This C8 is doing what yesterday’s big boss lights did! How cool is THAT?!
WOW!
That is amazing! How well does it take the heat?
Doug S.
If you want to purchase it again, we would love to offer a code for you. Please pm
Sofirn is owned by a factory. Contact us for any lights you would like to make or to become a Sofirn dealer
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Maybe you can try the SP32A. 2 Light Groups (6 brightness levels and dimming), with memory, one click on and double clicks for turbo. Here is the code and link.
Sofirn is owned by a factory. Contact us for any lights you would like to make or to become a Sofirn dealer
Sofirn official website
Ebay Store: sofirnlight
Sofirn AMAZON US Store
Sofirn Flahlights Group
Sofirn Flashlight Deals Group
Authorized AMAZON DE Store
AMAZON UK Store
AMAZON JP Store
AMAZON CA Store
AMAZON AU Store
AMAZON IT Store
Thailand Shopee Store
Malaysia Shopee Store
Philippines Shopee Store
Thank you Tracy. Much appreciated.
Doug, It handles the heat surprisingly well. The MCPCB is a large copper DTP, I confirmed that it is in fact Direct Thermal Path, and the shelf is pretty thick under this piece. The head has proper fins and also has the mass of the 3 protrubences that make the C8 what it is. Sure, it’ll warm up given some run time on Turbo, but it takes a bit longer than I would have thought.
The top cell I’ve found is the Sony VTC5A, other cells won’t push it as hard and so the heat and run time will of course be affected in a positive way with a lower discharge capability and higher capacity. Like with our FET drivers, it’s pretty easy to control the parameters by proper cell choice.
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