EDC-able, CR123, High CRI, Neutral White, decent distance

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hank
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? 16340s?

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1430876#comment-1430876
“It does work with 16340s, although with reduced performance.”

MascaratumB
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hank wrote:
? 16340s?

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1430876#comment-1430876
“It does work with 16340s, although with reduced performance.”


He’s referring to the D4. It acts better with the Aspire/Vapcell…1100mAh (10A) or with the high drain 18650s than with the 16340s (3A) !
jon_slider
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Dr Forinor wrote:
the perfect one

How about a Tana H17f programmable module w High Cri for your McGizmo Haiku? (no USA shipping)

if you add a Sundrop XRU head to your kit, you will have all the bases covered, flood and throw.

Heads and LED modules are interchangeable.
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?418984

The Aspheric Sundrop beam is vastly more consistent across the beam, than any reflector based beam with a hotspot, like the Haiku and HDS you already have.

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?444422

eala;5190768 wrote:

BlueSwordM
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Doesn’t that light use an aspheric lens?

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

jon_slider
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McGizmos are modular
you can mix and match bodies, heads, and light engines
No the Haiku does not use an aspheric lens
Yes the Sundrop does use an aspheric lens

I LOVE Aspheric lenses for indoor and close range use. The lack of a hotspot makes them fantastic work lights, and also produce excellent even illumination for photos.

Here are photos of McGizmo beams with various heads and LEDs

and Sundrop compared to Mule

http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1061131#comment-1061131

Dr Forinor wrote:
Since realising I enjoy neutral tints, I can’t actually stand to use the XM-L2 Haiku

It was also Low CRI

You still have a Haiku, just swap the light engine to High CRI
you have Tana to sell you other light engines, and you have CRX who can mod anything, living nearby

I vote for you buying a complete Sundrop with Nichia 083 from Don.

but if you dont want to order from US, buy the H17f light engine from Tana, w N219b, and stick it in your Haiku..

instant High CRI Haiku..

lfowner
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I would not recommend you any more light with CR123/16340. I would endorse lights with 18350.
The reason is simple: 16340 was a very reasonable size about 10 years ago. But actually the lights are so powerful that you have to change (or charge) battery very fast. 18350 has got much more capacity but is only a very little bit bigger.

Dr Forinor
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jon_slider wrote:
Dr Forinor wrote:
EDC-able, CR123, High CRI, Neutral White, decent distance

well… after reviewing your post history, I see you have owned HDS Rotary, Haiku, Sinner, and many others, yet you are still searching..

there must be a few criteria (size? weight? beam?) that are causing you to keep looking.. at least now you want High CRI

I note you dislike Green Tint, I do too. Hope to hear if you find the SST-20 in the D4 not too green

most of the lights you bought have just 3 or 4 modes

imo the HDS Rotary has the most intuitive and flexible UI.. I suggest you get it modded to an N219b 4500k 9080 (or do you find the HDS too large and heavy?)

you are not far from CRX, he is an exceptional modder, the trick is to find an N219b.. the 4500k 9080 is the pick of the litter imo. Not sure which host you would prefer for it.

Im carrying an N219b 4500k 9080 in a Jetbeam RRT-01 magnetic rotary. It weights almost half as much as my HDS Rotary. I like the RRT-01 UI better.

you seem to favor expensive lights, and seem to like titanium.. the Niteye Eye10 TIC might be your cup of tea, with a Nichia 219b LED mod it would be unbeatable imo.. My RRT-01 (same light, but not Titanium) makes over 350 lumens, more than any HDS, and the low is also lower than any HDS.. Plus the grip to use the light is imo much more comfortable, and there is no need to push a button before turning the dial…
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?346026

Part of the search is not necessarily because I am unhappy with my collection, but it’s as much an addiction as it is a “desire for better” all the time.

My criteria for this particular search is: 1: High CRI 2: 4000-5000k 3: HAS to be pocketable for all me scenarios 4: Initially it’s an area light but I would prefer it to have some throw also 5: Dont want/need extra/silly modes (strobes, SOS etc etc)

- I still own my HDS Rotary, and I love it. When I bought it I didn’t have as much knowledge/experience as I do now so I didn’t realise I would eventually grow to dislike cool white as my main light use.

- Still have my Haiku (XPG2 warmer version, got rid of my XML2 cooler version). Love this light, and I still use it, it’s almost perfect except for the fact it’s not EDC-able for me. 2 main reasons for this, firstly it’s slightly on the larger side – so I can’t use it on every occasion. Secondly it’s expensive and I want my EDC such that I don’t mind allowing others to use it.

- Sinner I got rid of very very quickly. It didn’t offer (for me) more than what my Manker E14 Nichia light offered (as far as funcionality is concerned). Yes it was shorter but also fatter being a 18350, so still not as pocketable as a 16340.

- I hate green tint. I want as completely as neutral as possible.

- For my purposes I don’t REALLY need more than 4 modes. I love the HDS Rotary system because of the infinite adjustability of the light – but that rotary function is not readily available. I understand now we have drivers with ramping, which I hope to try.

- I didn’t realise I could get my HDS rotary modded, I thought it was supposed to be a ballache? Even though I do use my HDS, and I love it for what it can do, every time I do use it I always think to myself (I hate this cool white). So that will definitely be on my list to do, at some point, thank you.

- What is the CRI of this N219b 9080? And the upper limit of it’s brightness/lumens, (at a safe level so it can last – not a 30 second burst mode)?

- I went through a period of trying a whole bunch of different lights. IMHO it’s the only way to find out what you really like. Titanium is nice and I am drawn to it but I would not prefer it over functionality. As far as favouring expensive lights, I wouldn’t say that either. Again, it was a period of buying a whole bunch of lights and I wanted to see what an expensive light is like compared to a cheap(er) light. I will not run from an expensive light now, but I am much less drawn towards them UNLESS they will offer something that is clearly better than what a cheaper light can do. In this day however, that’s becoming harder and harder for a more expensive light to do. With access to such cheap hosts, good emitters and great modders, it’s almost a no brainer.

- Where is CRX based?

- I have a module from Tana. A triple Nichia emitter, no reflector, in a modded Surefire 6P host. I LOVE this thing, but obviously it’s designed for closeup, having no throw at all. And not pocketable clearly.

Thank you for your advice. I will look into Niteye Eye10, and the RRT-01 (which brand is this one?).

And I will look into the Sundrop you suggested also.

mmalive
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CR123A battery based lights are not good for long run time. Lights drop output and run hot. Unless you have multiple CR123A batteries then flashlight will eat these up.

Ironically, I sold off my lone CR123A light BUT got 1 return of purchase.

Dr Forinor
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Perhaps I need to change to 18350s? But they are not readily pocketable in some scenarios for me?

lfowner
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Why not? They are only just a small little bit more in volume.

Dr Forinor
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Perhaps I’ve not seen a “slim” version of an 18350? All the ones I have seen are quite bulky.

I like to take it to work, and for work I have to wear smart trousers. A bulky light is quite uncomfortable.

BlueSwordM
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That’s why I recommended to you to buy some 18350s.

Plop them in if you really need some power/runtime.

Otherwise, just stick to 16340s most of the time when you don’t need super high power.

My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Dr Forinor
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Any specific 18350 people recommend?

BlueSwordM
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My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Dr Forinor
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And that’s the only one?

BlueSwordM
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My very own high current Beryllium Copper springs Gen 3:
http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67401
Liitokala Aliexpress Stores Battery Fraud: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/60547

Dr Forinor
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Excellent, thank you.

So either Vapcell and KeepPower are the brands to go for.

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Dr Forinor wrote:

> HAS to be pocketable for all me scenarios

> my Haiku… it’s almost perfect except for the fact it’s not EDC-able for me. …it’s slightly on the larger side – …it’s expensive

> – What is the CRI of this N219b 9080?

HDS are also quite large, and heavy

Olight S Mini are quite small, and much brighter than an HDS,
also much less expensive, but do not have the LED you want..
Maybe CRX could mod one for you.. he can also do your HDS LED swap, he is in Edinburgh

the N219b CRI Ra is more than 90
PLUS it has some of the highest CRI R9 (the Red part), of any LED available.
HDS used some, set to 200 lumens.

Here is a Titanium Olight S Mini next to an HDS Rotary, for size reference

personally I choose not to use 18350 (they are unprotected), I much prefer Protected 16340, particularly the ones that can be recharged by USB, like the Olight version in the photo.

The Titanium S Mini has a NW emitter btw.. I hate the tint and the Low CRI, but tastes vary, ToyKeeper likes it.

I sent you a PM also.

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Dr Forinor wrote:
I like to take it to work, and for work I have to wear smart trousers. A bulky light is quite uncomfortable.

Same here. I find the D4 to big for this and almost always EDC one of my 16340 lights.

Dr Forinor
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Can someone link me up to CRX contact details please?

lfowner
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Dr Forinor wrote:
And that’s the only one?

You can also use:
https://dampfplanet.de/akku-vapeonly-inr18350-1300mah-15a
As I used Liteflux LF3XT in the past, my new BLF A6 is the actual favorite EDC:
From 23 to 24mm diameter and from 80 to 87mm length.
BLF A6 = easy to use with good modes for me, cheap, much more powerful than the Liteflux and likewise reliable.

Liteflux was some of the best of it’s age, but that’s more then ten years ago…

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Dr Forinor wrote:
Excellent, thank you.

So either Vapcell and KeepPower are the brands to go for.

Yup, those are the best high drain cells for the Emisar Wink
First they were sold as “Aspire” but now they have those brands!

BTW, and just because I’ve been following the conversation here, I know what you feel about carrying the 16340s/CR123A. Recently I’ve been buying and using my flashlights that use those cells (On The Road M1 / i3 / M3 Pro, Jetbeam RRT01, Olight S1R Baton / M1T Raider) and I know that they are thinner than the 18350s. But they don’t have the same “kick” in power/output and have smaller runtimes.

However, if you want to have longer runtimes and have your pocket with a “thin” flashlight, you can try using 14500 flashlights!
Some 14500 Li-Ion batteries will give more runtime that 16340s and eventually more “kick” on the output. As example, recently a Vapcell 14500 1000mAh was released. So it will have more juice to run than a 700mAh 16340 battery! Wink

It is just a note/suggestion Wink

Dr Forinor wrote:
Can someone link me up to CRX contact details please?

About CRX, here is his user profile: http://budgetlightforum.com/user/7164
And here is his mods & builds thread: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/46542

Hope he can help you modding any light you may have under sight Wink

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Geuzzz wrote:
Dr Forinor wrote:
I like to take it to work, and for work I have to wear smart trousers. A bulky light is quite uncomfortable.

Same here. I find the D4 to big for this and almost always EDC one of my 16340 lights.

I don’t have a photo on hand, but an 18650 D4 fits perfectly inside a Leatherman Wave holster. Since these are available in smart leather, they are perfect for formal wear on a leather belt.

Beam me up!

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jon_slider wrote:
Dr Forinor wrote:

> HAS to be pocketable for all me scenarios

> my Haiku… it’s almost perfect except for the fact it’s not EDC-able for me. …it’s slightly on the larger side – …it’s expensive

> – What is the CRI of this N219b 9080?

HDS are also quite large, and heavy

Olight S Mini are quite small, and much brighter than an HDS,
also much less expensive, but do not have the LED you want..
Maybe CRX could mod one for you.. he can also do your HDS LED swap, he is in Edinburgh

the N219b CRI Ra is more than 90
PLUS it has some of the highest CRI R9 (the Red part), of any LED available.
HDS used some, set to 200 lumens.

Here is a Titanium Olight S Mini next to an HDS Rotary, for size reference

personally I choose not to use 18350 (they are unprotected), I much prefer Protected 16340, particularly the ones that can be recharged by USB, like the Olight version in the photo.

The Titanium S Mini has a NW emitter btw.. I hate the tint and the Low CRI, but tastes vary, ToyKeeper likes it.

I sent you a PM also.

I think your picture is the perfect conclusion on what is an EDC light. Even if I own about 40 lights, my Smini is my no.1 EDC light. I would take it before any of my HDS for EDC.

jon_slider
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derfyled wrote:
my Smini is my no.1 EDC light.

I like everything about Olight S Minis, except they are Low CRI, and not N219b compatible (they use XM-L2 architecture). There IS One High CRI version, the Olight S1 Mini High CRI. But the LED is XP-G3, with very green tint, and modding that model is difficult (the bezel is sunk into the body and removal is destructive).

for small 16340 with High CRI off the shelf, the Klarus Mi1c is a winner.

FWIW, that particular light does Not use an Aspheric lens, it has a reflector, a wide spill, and a throwy hotspot.
http://budgetlightforum.com/comment/1258733#comment-1258733

RobertB wrote:
I have the Cu version with the op reflector and have to say the beam is quite nice with a large hot spot and nice wide spill.

The Klarus UI is not my favorite, requires a long press to turn off.

But the light is small, very pocketable, and it includes a USB rechargeable battery. No charger required, just a phone cord.

There are also copper and titanium versions,

they are Low CRI, but not difficult to modify to N219b, CRX could do it easily.

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Dr Forinor wrote:
Can someone link me up to CRX contact details please?

Just drop him a PM mate!

FS : SFT70 20mm DTP 6V 6500k / BLF A6

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