They are functionally identical. I have the L2T (which was sent to me by mistake!) and I really like it. I also have an L2P which I like even better. I don't have an L2.
I'm still trying to decide/decipher the Solarforce choices. Jaygnar bought this one, the L2: http://www.itc-shop.net/product_detail.php?t=LF&s=45&id=305 which he really likes. Looks good to me too, but I'm trying to spot the differences, if any, between the 5 mode version of this model, and the L2P: http://www.itc-shop.net/product_detail.php?t=LF&s=44&id=223&sname=L2P&xpage=2&sh=1
As Dperreno said, they are functionally the same. I have no experience with the L2T, I like the L2P's and I find that they are better quality fit and finish than the L2, so, if you choose the L2, my recommendation would be to get the L2P, instead. Same look, although the bezel is less aggressive.
Good point about the switches. It looks like SolarForce has gone to using forward clickies on all their lights except for the L2. I prefer reverse-clickies.
@ dperreno: "It looks like SolarForce has gone to using forward clickies on all their lights except for the L2."
Does that mean the L2P is also now a forward clickie? I'm thinking of jonhobart's advice, but I also prefer reverse, seems almost essential for multi-modes.
If you haven't noticed yet you can mix and match parts and make just the light you want. Click on the "Flashlight Accessories" link in the Products area on the left. You can pick the body, head, bezel, drop-in, tailcap, lens, etc. and put it together yourself. Just make sure the drop-in voltage matches your battery choice (body).
So it's the drop-in that governs battery choice? I had the impression it was the driver. Or are they part of the same package? I've a UF 504b from DD with a 3 mode XM-l drop-in. Nothing about voltage tolerance appears to be written on it,is there a way to tell the voltage of the drop-in if it comes with the flashlight?
I would assume that the DD XM-L has a 4.2v max. That means a 3.7v Lithium max. No (2) 3v CR123's, or you will pop the bulb. Maybe an E-mail to them asking for the specs?
Thanks for posting ri chevy, but truth is that if they responded, (and if they actually addressed my specific question), I honestly couldn't rely on their info. Not saying they'd deliberately mislead me, but most Chinese sellers are notoriously innaccurate in their specs. I'd prefer to trust BLFers.
What you say about the voltage makes sense, but what's confusing is this: http://solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=LF&s=44&id=267 Sure, they're different lights, and the fact that the 504b is a SF clone isn't necessarily relevant, but I'm wondering why the L2 has the CR123 versatility and the 504b doesn't. Maybe the L2 in the link has a higher voltage drop-in and the site just doesn't mention this.
“ri chevy” pretty much answered about the voltage limits on most XM-L drop-ins. Unless they are stated to run up to 8.4V it is safe to assume they are limited to 4.2V max. Oddly enough, it seems that drivers made for less demanding LEDs (XR-E, XP-E, XP-G, etc…) are easier to find that will accept 6V safely.
To answer your other question, the driver is indeed part of the drop-in pill. Generally when you purchase a full "drop-in" you get the reflector, pill (heatsink), emitter, and driver all pre-assembled and ready to "drop-into" your P60 flashlight body.
Yes, and thanks again. I actually started a new thread here https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/5751 as I realized I was accidentally hijacking this one in my hunger for knowledge! Slooowly starting to understand. Appreciate your input buddy
No problem. Glad to help a friend out. Also, regarding wrapping/heatsinking the drop-ins. I use beer/soda bottle aluminum cans cut into 3/4" strips by 6" long and coil them up, then wrap them around the drop-in to better heat sink the drop-ins. It also tightens them up. It really does work well. And cheap.
