SolarForce Confusion-Please Help..

LED Flashlights – General Info
1

..Before I go mad ! For weeks now I've been through the BLF search/Flashlight Wiki etc trying to suss the SF system. Result: more confused than ever (SF's website doesn't help in this respect). Just when I think I'm getting on top of it, I come across a thread like this one: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/4643 and I'm back to square 1 again

I was set to buy the 5 mode version of the L2 till I read that it won't tailstand out the box. Then I read that you can get a tailstanding version of it (not found on SF site, btw), but that this was dearer. Now I read that all switches are forward clicky (deal breaker, see above link) Also they've hiked the price of the L2 so now there's less advantage over the L2P. But THIS model now seems to have only forward clicky, and at $35 + shipping is a bit pricey if I need to customize it. TBH, I'm still wondering if it's a truly worthwhile upgrade for the $ over my £8 UF 504b from DD, or if I should just buy another of those instead..

Basically, to be as brief as poss, what I want is: L2/L2P shape with anti-roll. 5 mode, although pref a lower low than the default XM-L dropin. Tailstand reverse clicky (both these functions essential) Crenellated bezel, pref modest, though even L2 style better than smooth. Mode memory (I believe this is standard). Also basic LED recomendations for all round use (XM-L?). Do I need to buy seperate parts to make my own flashlight? And if so, is this way much more expensive than ready made?

Any advice greatly appreciated, as always.

2

Unless you want to own an SF I'd say get another UF 504b host and a P60 drop-in of your choice.

Do you own an XP-G drop-in? Because if not I'd say get one. They are great all-rounders. Think of them as a mini-XML.

If you want a genuine SF light for peanuts then get this L2i body and you can use an 18650 in it or 3*AAA in an emergency. It has the bezel and reverse clickie you want. Then just buy any P60 drop-in you want to go in it. Here too I would suggest an XP-G drop-in from any supplier.

My XP-G UF 502b is my most used light and in most situations bright enough for all practical purposes while being far less cell draining than an XM-L.

3

I do not think you will be unhappy with the Solarforce L2P. They make a great light. The website has many different options with tail-standing switches. Good advice from above member. The Solarforce XP-G 5 mode is an excellent drop-in with good long run times. I believe it has a lower low than the XM-L. I must say the Solarforce XM-L is one of my favorite drop-ins, as it is driven a little lower than most others. I prefer 3 mode H-M-L drop-ins with no blinkies. The L2P host is one of their best. The HA III is excellent quality, and gives a great feel. I wouldn't be too concerned over the forward or reverse clickies, as the newer switches are of excellent quality, and work fine. The forward clicky gives you momentary on with a half press or constant on with a click. I feel they are much better than reverse clicky switches. You can buy the host that you want, along with the drop-in that you want, and then assemble it when you get it. I prefer it this way. Shipping from them is $2 US dollars.

I think this is what you are looking for. http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=7&id=17 with this drop-in (Link does not seem to be working but this is the number (Cree Input Volt (4.2v-8.4v)-XPG-5MOP) http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=28&id=208. If you want a lower low, then I would go with the 3 mode XP-G H-M-L http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=10&id=207, as the low is 10% (32 lumens) as compared to the 5 mode which is 30% (96 lumens). The colored versions of the host are a bit more expensive, but it depends on what your looking for. I hope this helps.

4

If you are insistent on getting the Solarforce L2 host, then this one looks as if it will tail-stand. It is a little cheaper, but you lose the HA III. It has the newer 2011 3A forward clicky switch http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=1&id=301.

Sometimes the wording on the Solarforce site can be misleading or confusing, from the translation of Chinese to English. With that said, they still make a great light!

5

L2P is a great host and will give you the reverse-clickie tailstand function you are looking for. I would agree with what is said above and go with the 3-mode drop-in, XML or XP-G. XML if you want a true wall of light.

Here is a link for the tailstanding foward clickie, I would prefer this for a multi-mode light instead of a reverse clickie because it will allow you to have a momentary on function and change modes more easily.

http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=FB&s=7&id=17

I think people have good luck with the mantafont XML 3 mode drop-in. You could also just get the solarforce XML drop in, I don't think its driven as hard but this will give you longer run time and a cooler running light.

http://www.solarforce-sales.com/product_detail.php?t=RB&s=40&id=369

6

Solarforce forward clickie switch and Ultrafire 3-mode drop-in don't always play nice. https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/4643

I ended up replacing the switch with a reverse clickie and now it's my favorite light.

7

I don't recommend FW clikies with multimode lights, unless modes are changed by twisting the head or with secondary button/switch. I really like my L2P with MF Ultrafire 3 mode XM-L drop-in :bigsmile:

8

Lens,

You can get exactly what you want, but you have to order the body and match it up with a drop-in. I bought the L2 2011 finish with the tailstanding switch which is the one that ri chevy links to. However, I would recommend stepping up to an L2P, if you can swing a few extra $$. I use the MF Ultrafire XML 3 mode drop-in in all three of my SF flashlights and they work well, even though they are all forward clicky (I think).

I still have to do a mini review of my 3 SF's, but while the L2 2011 with tailstanding switch is a nice host, I find the L2P's to be of a higher quality. It appears to me that SF came out with the tailstanding version of the 2011 L2 because they must have gotten a batch of L2P switches that did not meet the tighter tolerances of the L2P (with my lone sample, the knurling on switch much shallower than even the knurling on the L2 body and is much shallower than either of my L2P's, but otherwise it appears to be exactly the same switch used on my L2P's). A nitpic and not really a concern since I will use that host at work where I am more likely to drop it, get abraided, etc.

9

I have one L2i XP-G driven at only 1A and one XM-L at 1,4A.

Very usable runtimes. Have been thinking even to try XM-L and 1A... :o

10

Thanks for all your replies so far. In order of appearance:

@ VFMaddict: It's true I do like the 504b. It's a 3 mode (was listed as 5 by DD) XM-L, Hi, Lo and Strobe. IMO the low output is perfect and I'm a strobe fan . I love the design, solid tailstand and effective anti-roll. However the boot is a bit squishy, knurling is on the timid side and build quality feels more "ok" than excellent. For the price it was a steal, and I'm not complaining, but I guess I'm curious to see how it compares to an L2/L2P, as so many BLFers are huge SF fans. The L2i is a possibility, though it probably wouldn't be my first choice; thanks for the link.

I don't yet own an XP-G. Got XM-L into my head now largely because it's so popular, and because of the higher lumen claims; on SF site, it's 820l for XM-L (doubless exaggerated) compared to 320l (I think) for XP-G. But happy to try an XP-G if you guys recommend. Apart from anything else, it'll be interesting to compare with the 504b's XM-L. And they're interchangeable, right?

@ ri chevy: Thanks for the links. Yes, the L2P is a nice host, but the quality upgrade would be wasted because I really dislike forward clicky with a multi-mode light. My Romisen RC-29 is a great little torch but I seldom use it for that reason. I'm sure the SF FW clickies are excellent quality as you say, but it's the mechanism that I've a problem with. I guess I could get used to it in time, but it's too much money to pay for something I don't like.

@ motodeficient: Thanks for your input. But are you sure the L2P comes with a reverse clicky? Your link, as you say, is a forward clicky and I can't find a reverse version of this model on the site. From the thread I linked in the OP, it seems that ALL SF switches are now forward clicky. And I honestly can't agree that this type are easier to change modes with. Of course I respect your opinion, but to me it just seems so annoying to have to switch off and back on again.. As for the three mode dropin for a lower low but without strobe.. Hm, not 100% sure yet, but I think I'd probably rather have the strobe. Or just get another 504b if all else fails.

@ dperreno: Your link is the same thread I linked in the OP! When I first read your posts there I wondered, if SF parts all lego as we're so often told, why did you have such a problem getting a suitable reverse clicky switch? This is what I meant about getting more confused the more I tried to learn..

@ jonhobart: Yes, the L2 in ri chevy's link does tailstand, but it's a forward clicky. And for the small(ish) price difference between that and the L2P, I think you've all persuaded me that the L2P would be worth the extra. From the SF site, both the L2 and L2P come in 5 mode XM-L versions straight out the box. Not sure about the XP-G though, have to look again.

So, now looking for a reverse clicky L2P. FWIW, I've emailed Jo at SF a few times. He usually replies within about 24 hrs, polite and friendly but not really all that helpful. Typically the gist will be that "all SF parts are interchangeable so you won't have problem, just email your order and we'll do our best to help.." etc.

11

A lot of people really like Solarforce drop-ins but I've never been happy with them . . . at least the ones I got. I've never tried their R5s but I have two SF single mode XM-Ls and an SST-50. E1320 has fixed the SST-50 twice (small gauge wires fried) and one of the solder joints fell off on one XM-L. The SST-50 has an awesome tint but I hate the tint on the XM-Ls and niether are as bright as even an R5 drop-in I got from Manafont. They've demonstrated distinct underperformance.

I have dozens of drop-ins from everywhere and my experience has been: Solarforce flashlights/hardware quality is second to none but I've had bad luck with their drop-ins. I guess they're fine if you're not a brightness/lumen whore like me. When E fixes my stuff, he says that I'm fairly brutal with electronics. I fry everything so . . . YMMV.

breakseverythingFoy

12

Thanks Foy, I hoped you might contribute. The last review of yours I read was the L2 https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/1838. Reverse clicky but no tailstand..

Was there a tailstand version? Is there still, do you know? If so, the tailcap might be available for a L2P. In the review, you're unhappy at the different tailcap/body diameters, but I'd guess this is unconnected with the apparent demise of SF reverse clickies..

13

You may be able to ask Jo at Solarforce if they have any reverse clicky tail-standing switches laying around. I know one thing, they are about ordering any money. If they have it, they will sell it and get rid of it. You may be able to ask for exactly what you are looking for, the exact host and switch.

For all of the issues people have been having with multi mode bulbs and forward clickies, I to have noticed that they are a little picky, but with a little practice, you can get the switch to do just what you want it to do. For me, I prefer the forward clicky momentary on constant on operation. It is more tactical. For others, I can see how a reverse clicky would be useful.

14

Lensman -

That review was for the previous version L2. The new L2's tail cap matches perfectly and frankly, the 2011 version is so good I wonder what real value a more expensive L2P offers. Use to be, you could open up an L2P and see the "Golden Grade Milspec" whateverthehell . . . it was gold inside. (whatever advantages that offered) My latest black L2P is indeed gold inside but the grey and blue L2Ps that arrived with that exact same order are both silver inside and in fact, in appearance seem to be nothing more than an L2 with a tail standing cap and "L2P" labeling.

Supposedly, the L2P has better "HA III" but this reviewer fails to see any real value in paying more for an L2P. The L2P was significantly better than the old L2 but to me, that is no longer the case.

/02Foy

15

I'll put in a second for the xpg drop ins ..and even a suggestion that you have Erik make you one ..But if you're a strobe fan there are plenty of choices .Even buying a 504b silver and stealing the drop in out of it ..If for some reason it comes as a 3 mode have DD fix the problem for you .I was impressed with the xml 5mode drop ins because they didn't have the foul PWM that normally comes with cheap lights .

Solarforce is a decent light I like the matte finish on the new models better than the older slicker models .

get a friend interested and buy it for him ..if you like his , buy one yourself :P

16

Foy,

The tailcap on my recently ordered 2011 L2 with tailstanding tailcap did not match as well as the two L2P's (and actually the black L2P I ordered, the tailcap matched less well than the grey L2P). Strictly an aesthetic thing and does not affect performance. But if you want the looks to go with the performance you step up to the L2P.

17

Ok, progress, based on various suggestions above:

@ VFM and Boaz, I've ordered a silver 504b: https://budgetlightforum.com/t/-/4370 to go with the black one I mentioned above. Should have done it before really, for the $ you can't go wrong (unless unlucky enough to get a poor sample of course; apparently there were a couple). You're right Boaz, if there's any PWM with my three mode, it's totally invisible to my eyes. Assuming I get another good one, and DD don't muck up my order, as a worst case I'll get a decent drop in and various lego-able spare bits.

As an aside, I have to say that I've learned to love the 3 mode XM-L drop-in that came with the black 504b. I don't care so much about SOS, and its low mode is so spot on that, surprisingly, I don't miss a medium output as much as I would have thought. Low on my 504b is bright enough to see where you're going, yet not so bright that it hurts my eyes reading in the dark, and it has a memory. If I could be sure of getting the same one, I'd order another black version for the drop-in alone, or just the drop-in if it's available seperately.

I'll also go with above advice to try an XP-G drop-in as well. Any specific source/brand recommendation? Preferably 5 mode, but I'd also be happy to buy an XP-G version of the 3 mode 504b drop-in mentioned above; i.e. Low, Hi, strobe. Does one exist? I don't mean to be lazy here, and I'll gladly do my own research, but I need to be pointed in the right direction. There are so many out there it's hard to know where to start, and they can't all be equal.

Back to SolarForce, and my reasons for wanting one. Based on BLF fandom, I'm hoping for a noticeably better build quality than Ultrafire and, even more important, hopefully the greater reliability that should accompany this. Also the CR123 battery versatility; I believe the 504b isn't compatible with 2 X Cr123?

Jon, I've paid close attention to your (and other's) L2P recommendation, and i'd be glad to pay a bit more for a superior product. But truth is I'm very much a build/reliability/function guy, and TBH I could hardly care less about aesthetics. (I work in construction, so nothing stays looking nice for very long anyway). For me, a torch will always be first and foremost a working tool; give me reliability, grippable knurling, solid tailstand, effective anti-roll, useful output spacings and I doubt I'd even notice "beam artifacts" - whatever they are - or a less than beautiful tint.

So Foy, you've brought me back to the L2 again (madtoignorefoy'sadviceonsf). I'd prefer one to my requirements straight out the box, but I've emailed Jo (again) re tailstanding reverse clickies. If none are now available then I'm afraid all the above is moot, but if he still has a few I may go the lego route, depending on price, and if you all think it's worth it over more UF 504b's (even without CR123 compatibility).