Overdriving XHP70.2 aircraft anti-collision light

1 post / 0 new
lgrant
Offline
Last seen: 2 years 6 months ago
Joined: 05/08/2019 - 09:37
Posts: 1
Overdriving XHP70.2 aircraft anti-collision light

Hello everyone, noob here – first post.

I’m looking to cobble together an anti-collision flashing light system for a small aircraft. The lights would be bright white (cool – 6500) and there would be one on each wingtip and one on vertical stabilizer, for a total of 3. Looking to use an automotive type flasher unit with an adjustable cycle and would probably be in the 60 cycles per minute area, or maybe a little lower than that.

The aircraft has a 12v electrical system and while running, the system at the main bus bar will be functioning at 13.5v to 14v. Lights will have to be wired parallel. The first 8’ of wire to the parallel junction will be 14 gauge aircraft wiring and then 3 loops of 20 AWG wire 15’ out and back (30’ total) to the 3 lights. The vertical stabilizer loop may be a little shorter. Of course, the lights will be on copper pads and further heat sinked on either copper or aluminum plate mounts.

I’m not sure what the duty cycle of the lights will be. Anyone care to guess? In designing a cheap adjustable flasher unit, would an engineer make the light interval constant or proportional to the length of the cycle? I’m hoping constant and therefore the longer cycle will reduce the duty cycle percentage.

Questions:
1) Assuming direct drive (at the moment), will the vehicle voltage (say 13v with wiring resistance) limit the overdrive of the lights or will the available amperage get involved (I don’t know that much about electricity)? The battery and alternator are capable of supplying well more than the 2400mA, which is theoretically the LED-chip “max.”
2) What voltage is required to get to 2400mA? There’s probably a formula?
3) Is the 4300 lumen available at 2400mA? Regs call for 400 candela (per light) which one could argue is about 5000 lumen. I think in practical application, 4300 lumen would serve quite nicely.
4) How insane would it be to go without a current driver? I’m thinking the long runs are going to impede the voltage at the lights and also the 50% or less duty cycle will keep the LED cooler than if it were constant on.
4) What are the advantages/disadvantages to the domed version vs the flat version? Making reference to some flashlight products that use an “undomed” version of the LED. I’m not sure what that means.

I thank everyone in advance for their input.
Larry

Edited by: lgrant on 05/08/2019 - 17:07