Lumintop FW1A discussion and review

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JCS
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Received my light and I’m very disappointed. A light that activates in my pocket is a no go and this light has already done it twice in two days. I’m hoping I can figure out how to modify the tail switch. I’ve never taken a light apart but the modification seems fairly straight forward. Could anyone provide me with a video on how to do it? I can’t seem to find one on YouTube. Also can anyone tell me the o ring size or products they’ve used? Thanks!

DarkOutHere
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Can anyone comment on the waterproof rating of this light? I definitely want one for EDC/outdoor use but if I’m going to take it backpacking or walking in the rain it needs to be reliable in all weather. I’ve never owned a Lumintop or a forum light so I don’t have a sense of the build quality. Is this a toy with nice design and specs, or a day in, day out, all-weather user?

Lumens is the GHz of flashlights
Candela is the FLOPS

jasontheguitarist
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JCS wrote:
Received my light and I’m very disappointed. A light that activates in my pocket is a no go and this light has already done it twice in two days. I’m hoping I can figure out how to modify the tail switch. I’ve never taken a light apart but the modification seems fairly straight forward. Could anyone provide me with a video on how to do it? I can’t seem to find one on YouTube. Also can anyone tell me the o ring size or products they’ve used? Thanks!

The proper solution is to lock the light out. When the light is OFF, tap the button 4 times. The light will flash twice. Once it’s locked it’ll work in low mode only when the switch is held down, but it won’t stay on.

To unlock it tap the button 4 times.

Rayoui
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DarkOutHere wrote:
Can anyone comment on the waterproof rating of this light? I definitely want one for EDC/outdoor use but if I’m going to take it backpacking or walking in the rain it needs to be reliable in all weather. I’ve never owned a Lumintop or a forum light so I don’t have a sense of the build quality. Is this a toy with nice design and specs, or a day in, day out, all-weather user?

I’d say it’s more of a toy than a rugged outdoor light. It does have o-rings and should be ok in the rain or getting splashed, but I certainly wouldn’t submerge it or anything like that. All it takes is one spec of lint on an o-ring and the seal is compromised. It’s very finicky about how the signal tube makes contact with the head and tail so if you might be dropping it or banging it around a lot, I’d probably look elsewhere.

DarkOutHere
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Sounds like its not my best choice for a woods/hunting/backpacking light. Anything small and budget that you think is reliable? I’m looking at variants of the Convoy S2+ right now that would fit my needs.

Lumens is the GHz of flashlights
Candela is the FLOPS

BOO5TED
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JCS wrote:
Could anyone provide me with a video on how to do it? I can’t seem to find one on YouTube. Also can anyone tell me the o ring size or products they’ve used? Thanks!

Disassemble the tail cap, if it has a retaining ring you can remove it with snap ring plyers or the end of a binder clip. I used the binder clip because that’s what I had.

It should look something like this when done.

Remove the little “nub” (as some people call it) from the center of the rubber part of the button and replace it with the o-ring. It should look like this.

Reassemble everything without the “nub”.

I forget what size the o-ring is but I’ve heard the o-ring from inside of the valve caps on your tires works also.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

atobe
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O-ring #008, your local hardware store should have them. 3/16” ID, 5/16” OD, 1/16” Width is the spec.

"☚ (<‿<)☚"

JCS
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BOO5TED wrote:
JCS wrote:
Could anyone provide me with a video on how to do it? I can’t seem to find one on YouTube. Also can anyone tell me the o ring size or products they’ve used? Thanks!

Disassemble the tail cap, if it has a retaining ring you can remove it with snap ring plyers or the end of a binder clip. I used the binder clip because that’s what I had.

It should look something like this when done.

Remove the little “nub” (as some people call it) from the center of the rubber part of the button and replace it with the o-ring. It should look like this.

Reassemble everything without the “nub”.

I forget what size the o-ring is but I’ve heard the o-ring from inside of the valve caps on your tires works also.


Thank you very much for that. I had a pair of snap ring pliers and they didn’t work for this however the binder clip did! I was very nervous to do this mod and worried about ruining the threads. I think going slow and easy is the key. I did the mod and I must say the light is now amazing. So far no accidental activations. This is how the light should’ve came from the factory. IMO the light out of the box is dangerous and shouldn’t be carried without this mod or locking it out. Locking it out is a pain and if you use the light a lot so I’m glad I found this mod. A member on here hooked me up with some o rings. This is a great community!
Oli
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3300k 7A has been on my belt since Sept 2019 when it came out. It’s been dropped on concrete and other hard surfaces. I finally put an o-ring in the tail cap. I like it even more.

BOO5TED
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JCS wrote:
Thank you very much for that. I had a pair of snap ring pliers and they didn’t work for this however the binder clip did! I was very nervous to do this mod and worried about ruining the threads. I think going slow and easy is the key. I did the mod and I must say the light is now amazing. So far no accidental activations. This is how the light should’ve came from the factory. IMO the light out of the box is dangerous and shouldn’t be carried without this mod or locking it out. Locking it out is a pain and if you use the light a lot so I’m glad I found this mod. A member on here hooked me up with some o rings. This is a great community!

No problem. Thumbs Up

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

hodor
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Finally bought a FW1A and gotta say I’m disappointed. What’s up with the artifacty reflector/beam?

Also with everyone raving about how much better the FD2 was compared to the FB4 I can’t see why. Maybe I just lost out in the tint lottery again.

trakcon
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I’m pretty sure the reflector has changed from the first run. The artifacts are disappointing.

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hodor wrote:
Finally bought a FW1A and gotta say I’m disappointed. What’s up with the artifacty reflector/beam?

Also with everyone raving about how much better the FD2 was compared to the FB4 I can’t see why. Maybe I just lost out in the tint lottery again.

I think it’s designed for XP-L HI, so SST-20 doesn’t look quite right. Also, SST-20 generally looks even more green when used in a reflector, and the tint bin probably isn’t better enough to fix that. Even the “good” bins look green at low levels, and a reflector makes the effect even stronger.

Of course, given how many times the FW3A has been changed, the FW1A also could have changed since the initial release.

trakcon
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Here is a comparison photo.

On the right is my original FW1A (with SS bezel).

The left is a photo I requested from Craig/Illumn of his latest batch.

treellama
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My FW1A SST-20 is green tinted and artifacty too. I might try an sw40 in it. Mine has the thick plastic ring as pictured on the left.

bmengineer
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trakcon wrote:
Here is a comparison photo.

On the right is my original FW1A (with SS bezel).

The left is a photo I requested from Craig/Illumn of his latest batch.


Wow that’s drastic

Find all my reviews of flashlights and more gear at www.bmengineer.com

trakcon
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bmengineer wrote:
Wow that’s drastic

Yep. Has me a bit concerned about the FW1T.

Scallywag
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trakcon wrote:
Here is a comparison photo.

On the right is my original FW1A (with SS bezel).

The left is a photo I requested from Craig/Illumn of his latest batch.


Holy crap, that’s bad.
BOO5TED
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trakcon wrote:
Here is a comparison photo.

On the right is my original FW1A (with SS bezel).

The left is a photo I requested from Craig/Illumn of his latest batch.

The pic on the left looks like the Pro reflector imo.

These are my two FW1A lights. The pro is on the left, regular model on the right.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

trakcon
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BOO5TED wrote:
trakcon wrote:
Here is a comparison photo.

On the right is my original FW1A (with SS bezel).

The left is a photo I requested from Craig/Illumn of his latest batch.


The pic on the left looks like the Pro reflector imo.

These are my two FW1A lights. The pro is on the left, regular model on the right.

I had wondered if they decided to just use one reflector for both models.

BOO5TED
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I bet that’s it, only need one reflector now instead of two.

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

cabfrank
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ToyKeeper wrote:

Of course, given how many times the FW3A has been changed, the FW1A also could have changed since the initial release.

Yes, and given all that went into the design and production of these lights, free to Lumintop, this is very disappointing, to say the least.

treellama
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So, is there anything that can be done about this new reflector? Anybody know of a better one that would fit?

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I don’t know how the FW1A differs from the FW3A in the MCPCB shelf/cavity, but I used the Convoy S21A reflector. I was probably one of, if not the very first to convert an FW3A into a single emitter. . Currently with a sliced 4000k SST20 —Tiny, tiny hotspot. Looking to try a 3500k LH351 from Digikey next.. Very happy with it overall.

AmperSand
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Just received a Nichia FW1A, must be from new batch because can confirm has new reflector with wide spacing, a little disappointing to be honest.

varbos
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Disappointed to learn of the reflector issue. Lumintop are total cheapskates who have no pride in the quality of their products.

hodor
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Yup, hugely disappointed. Along with the smushy, doomed to fail switch on the GT mini, its unlikely I’ll be buying another Lumintop product.

jon_slider
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trakcon wrote:
The artifacts are disappointing.

large hole at base of reflector with small LED, is not a good match

some possible ways to improve the beam

1. Use a wider LED such as the LH351d

or

2. move the small LED closer to the reflector, by creating a 0.5mm thinner centering ring

WTB Novatac Pocket Clip

treellama
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What about filing down the back of the centering ring?

I could use a bigger LED, but I was hoping for some throw in a little pocket light. I was expecting more than the S2+ since the reflector is wider, but it’s actually less throwy than the smaller S2+ reflector.

jon_slider
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treellama wrote:
What about filing down the back of the centering ring?

I avoid modifying the original part
fear of breaking

I sand down one these alternative centering rings instead

so I can go back to stock if all fails

WTB Novatac Pocket Clip

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