JakeDjanitor wrote:

fluke wrote:

I asked elsewhere, what is the trim pot for.?

Anyone know? Where is this trim pot?

JakeDjanitor wrote:

fluke wrote:

I asked elsewhere, what is the trim pot for.?

Anyone know? Where is this trim pot?

Thanks guys

JakeDjanitor wrote:

Thanks guys

I was waiting to get a PM with my GB code. I never got one. This whole GB process was very confusing & it seems many people were able to “jump the line.” And now the 3,000 units allocated for the GB is closed? I saw that the auction listing for the version with batteries still had some inventory so I submitted an offer for it, but not hopeful…

xevious wrote:

I was waiting to get a PM with my GB code. I never got one. This whole GB process was very confusing & it seems many people were able to “jump the line.” And now the 3,000 units allocated for the GB is closed? I saw that the auction listing for the version with batteries still had some inventory so I submitted an offer for it, but not hopeful…

See here

Success getting the bale lined up with the button. djozz had it right. Take the screws off the driver and un-twist the wires. Pull the bolt off the top and lift. With plenty of room, you see the two tabs DBSAR was talking about. It’s soft plastic. I just grabbed the tabs with pliers, snapped them off, then cut the left over tab with a sharp knife.

As DBSAR mentioned, the o-ring was a bit tricky to get back on. I rolled the o-ring down onto the shade, then slowly rolled it back up to seat on the top of the shade. Lined up the top cap and replaced the bolt.

Putting the driver back in, take a sharpie marker, and mark where the charging port is, so you can line it up. Twist the wires back up, line up the charge port, and put the screws back in.

Driver off, un-twist the wires

Pull up on top cap, and snip off the plastic tabs on the center post

Mark the charging port with a marker, twist the wires back, and install screws

Done

The first step by step LT1 mod!! Of course, DBSAR gets some of the credit here. Thanks for the pictures, i can see doing this soon.

sbslider wrote:

The first step by step LT1 mod!! Of course, DBSAR gets some of the credit here. Thanks for the pictures, i can see doing this soon.

DBSAR and djozz both get the credit ! Just remember, if and when you change the batteries, to grab the head around where the button is to unscrew the battery tube. If you grab it by the top cap, you risk twisting it since the stopper tabs are no longer there.

I guess the diffuser is epoxied or some how else attached to the base for protect against water intrusion? Else it seems like one could just rotate the diffuser/top to line up the bail with the switch, and not have to cut the tabs. Not really sure the tabs are needed, but perhaps are part of the normal production assembly process.

sbslider wrote:

I guess the diffuser is epoxied or some how else attached to the base for protect against water intrusion? Else it seems like one could just rotate the diffuser/top to line up the bail with the switch, and not have to cut the tabs. Not really sure the tabs are needed, but perhaps are part of the normal production assembly process.

I should have looked at how the diffuser was attached, but didn’t. I believe it is screwed into the base and an o-ring between the bottom of the diffuser and the body. I can definitely see why they put those tabs in there, to keep from rotating the top cap where the MCPCB is attached, thus, preventing further twisting of the wires.

The base of the diffuser has 3 screws that holds it to the base. I was thinking of trying to turn it that instead. I just cut the tabs and was able to turn it so it matches with the button. Added some loctite to the bolt but it probbly won’t back out on it’s own anyways.

I completed the mod, took about 20 minutes? Would have been quicker but I added a twist, not really sure if/how much of a difference this makes. I put aluminum foil over the center diffuser post. Figure whatever light might have gotten absorbed there is now reflected. Hard to say if its any brighter or not, but it can’t hurt. The foil extends from the base to about 1/4” of the top, just cause that’s how my cut ended up. It would be interesting to compare this LT1 with another now.

Think that’s my first flashlight mod.

sbslider wrote:

I completed the mod, took about 20 minutes? Would have been quicker but I added a twist, not really sure if/how much of a difference this makes. I put aluminum foil over the center diffuser post. Figure whatever light might have gotten absorbed there is now reflected. Hard to say if its any brighter or not, but it can’t hurt. The foil extends from the base to about 1/4” of the top, just cause that’s how my cut ended up. It would be interesting to compare this LT1 with another now.

Think that’s my first flashlight mod.

Ha, I asked about this exact mod being part of a potential future production run or if it will be a one-off thing. Though looking at how the lantern functions, it’s probably only a few lumens different.

Just a small warning: the protective tabs on the bottom of the 18650 cells shipped from Sofirn can leave glue after them. Noticed that when I popped them into a charger and one of the cells didn’t charge correctly until I cleaned the bottom connection properly.

Camo5 wrote:

sbslider wrote:

I completed the mod, took about 20 minutes? Would have been quicker but I added a twist, not really sure if/how much of a difference this makes. I put aluminum foil over the center diffuser post. Figure whatever light might have gotten absorbed there is now reflected. Hard to say if its any brighter or not, but it can’t hurt. The foil extends from the base to about 1/4” of the top, just cause that’s how my cut ended up. It would be interesting to compare this LT1 with another now.

Think that’s my first flashlight mod.

Ha, I asked about this exact mod being part of a potential future production run or if it will be a one-off thing. Though looking at how the lantern functions, it’s probably only a few lumens different.

Ran a capacity test on the 18650:s from Sofirn that came with the LT1 on my Opus and they deliver: 2951, 2952, 2985 and 2985 mAh.

3121, 3113, 3067, 3054 here.

Received mine yesterday, very pleased to learn that standard Sanyo GA cells work fine, no button tops needed.

Beautiful work, DBSAR! Also, ToyKeeper, Lexel, Del, Sofirn, and many others!

Just a heads up, mine was ordered on 10/12 , shipped via speedpak. So far speedpak with USPS sucks.went from DC to NJ , then to Indiana and next Kentucky. I am in Ohio . The updates for tracking happen seemingly the next day after it moves. It’s finally in Ohio. Should have it today or tomorrow. Again thanks for the team that made this.

I just had a chance to try out my first LT1. It will be a gift, so I didn’t really do a complete run-down. But it seems to work fine, and the candle flicker mode looks realistic. I didn’t find any manufacturing defects. It’s a very nice light. I left positive feedback for Sofirn in eBay, as they requested.

My LT1 has a problem.

After charging I found the USB port flap had come off. I am not rough with my lights. I have 3 Wubens that I have used more than the LT1 and never had a problem. I have a Nitecore several years old that has never had a problem. Not to mention a couple of phones with port flaps that have been used for 5 years or more and have the original flaps. Anyhow I thought I would mention it. I’ve sent a PM to Sofirn and to Barry. Here’s a photo.

MtnDon wrote:

My LT1 has a problem.

After charging I found the USB port flap had come off. I am not rough with my lights. I have 3 Wubens that I have used more than the LT1 and never had a problem. I have a Nitecore several years old that has never had a problem. Not to mention a couple of phones with port flaps that have been used for 5 years or more and have the original flaps. Anyhow I thought I would mention it. I’ve sent a PM to Sofirn and to Barry.

ouch, did it just pop out or did the tab break?

I’ve had the same problems with the SP36. At least the LT1 driver comes out easily so pulling a new tab through the hole isn’t a big deal.

I thought the USB port flap coming out was a definite possibility when I got my LT. Hopefully Sofirn will make them available for sale when they inevitability get lost.

I need to order a half dozen or so SP36 versions. I might as well add a few of these to the list too.

DBSAR wrote:

ouch, did it just pop out or did the tab break?

The round stem that goes through the hole of the head body snapped. It appears to have broken off where I expect there is/was a larger ball or whatever, that is on the inside of the head to retain the opened flap. I simply pulled the little tab to open the flap and folded up to insert the USB plug and it came off in my fingers. Totally unexpected because, as mentioned, I have had good luck/experiences with port cover flaps on other lights and devices.

I hope they can at least send me a few, not just one and that it is not too difficult to insert.

MtnDon wrote:

I hope they can at least send me a few, not just one and that it is not too difficult to insert.

It looks like a replacement would feed through the body and one could grab the piece before the retention piece has to squeeze through the body. Likely a little isopropyl alcohol would help with the job also.

It looks like it broke right where the widened portion is. With length like that it should be easy enough to pull through. Thanks for the photo

I was about to forward this light to a relative in CA, but they are definitely not going to be able to install a new one themselves. So I’ll delay the sending I guess.

MtnDon wrote:

It looks like it broke right where the widened portion is. With length like that it should be easy enough to pull through. Thanks for the photo