BLF LT1 Runtime test *updated 12/11 with step level 2*

85 posts / 0 new
Last post
GreenCampfire
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 11/27/2019 - 00:51
Posts: 19
Location: USA

Haha, whoops BFLAlias is my roommate and I was replying on his computer (I also convinced him to order a lantern). Yes please feel free to link on the main LT1 topic.

DBSAR
DBSAR's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 10 hours ago
Joined: 02/11/2013 - 23:28
Posts: 6387
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
GreenCampfire wrote:
Haha, whoops BFLAlias is my roommate and I was replying on his computer (I also convinced him to order a lantern). Yes please feel free to link on the main LT1 topic.

ok Thumbs Up link added to the main topic.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

Madtoffel
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 1 day ago
Joined: 05/07/2018 - 09:46
Posts: 94
Location: Germany (TLF member)

After reading all your current measurements during the tint ramp, I was wondering if you also measured the brightness, because I am not sure if we even need a linear current curve during the tint ramping. At least theoretically the effiency (lm/W) of the Leds should be higher when the current is spead over more leds, which means that we should have a slight dip in the mid of the current curve, although I am not sure how noticible the effect is in this case.

toobadorz
toobadorz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 32 min ago
Joined: 01/10/2017 - 09:04
Posts: 184

Unfortunately the firmware programming “holes” om LT1 don’t work for me.

I do have the Lexel programming key, 3 pieces, purchased from Fireflies. This tool worked for Fireflies E01 and PL47G2 (I upgraded their firmware successfully more than once), however it didn’t work with Fireflies ROT66G2 and BLF LT1. ROT66G2 and LT1 have a newer design of programming “holes”, while E01 and PL47G2 have the old design — programming “pads”. The old “pads” make much better contact with the pogo-pins, so you can easily reflash as long as the pins are aimed at the pads correctly. However with the new design of “holes”, the contact cannot be made reliably.

I have spent more than 3 hours on my ROT66G2 and LT1, hundreds of times, making sure that the pogo-pins are all pushed into the “holes” each time, however AVRDUDE couldn’t even read the MCU id correctly, each time. The only reliable way to reflash the firmware for ROT66G2 or LT1 is to pull out the driver and use a programming clip directly. That involves removing the soldered wires each time, and it’s tedious.

I also sanded the tips of the pogo-pins on the programming key, slightly or heavily, and tried several times, still didn’t work.

I like both ROT66G2 and LT1, however I think the programming feature is fairly important and should have been well tested… Facepalm


EDIT: I just soldered wires directly from those programming “holes” to the USBASP programmer. However it didn’t work either. So most likely those holes themselves are not working at all in the design circuit, or both my ROT66G2 and LT1 are defective units.

Lexel
Lexel's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 3 weeks ago
Joined: 11/01/2016 - 08:00
Posts: 5895
Location: Germany

toobadorz wrote:
Unfortunately the firmware programming “holes” om LT1 don’t work for me.

I do have the Lexel programming key, 3 pieces, purchased from Fireflies. This tool worked for Fireflies E01 and PL47G2 (I upgraded their firmware successfully more than once), however it didn’t work with Fireflies ROT66G2 and BLF LT1. ROT66G2 and LT1 have a newer design of programming “holes”, while E01 and PL47G2 have the old design — programming “pads”. The old “pads” make much better contact with the pogo-pins, so you can easily reflash as long as the pins are aimed at the pads correctly. However with the new design of “holes”, the contact cannot be made reliably.

I have spent more than 3 hours on my ROT66G2 and LT1, hundreds of times, making sure that the pogo-pins are all pushed into the “holes” each time, however AVRDUDE couldn’t even read the MCU id correctly, each time. The only reliable way to reflash the firmware for ROT66G2 or LT1 is to pull out the driver and use a programming clip directly. That involves removing the soldered wires each time, and it’s tedious.

I also sanded the tips of the pogo-pins on the programming key, slightly or heavily, and tried several times, still didn’t work.

I like both ROT66G2 and LT1, however I think the programming feature is fairly important and should have been well tested… Facepalm


EDIT: I just soldered wires directly from those programming “holes” to the USBASP programmer. However it didn’t work either. So most likely those holes themselves are not working at all in the design circuit, or both my ROT66G2 and LT1 are defective units.

I can not verify your problem

I have here both lights, plugged the programming key in just a minute ago, started Atmel Studio and flashed with Attiny25 command so it gives me error wrong MCU
I have flashed several drivers without any problems with the programming key, both all vias and with only 2 align viases
The design was changed to all viases after another programming key maker said to me when all pads are viases the flash proces is more reliable

The v3.1 key has mirror problem, so the leads need to be soldered not as marked on the key, did you check that?

The main goal is to have a key with aligned Pogo pins mine is not perfect but works

toobadorz
toobadorz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 32 min ago
Joined: 01/10/2017 - 09:04
Posts: 184
Lexel wrote:
The v3.1 key has mirror problem, so the leads need to be soldered not as marked on the key, did you check that?

Yes. And with the same key/configuration I successfully flashed PL47, PL47G2, E01, E07, so I believe the same thing should work with ROT66G2 and LT1 directly. But it didn’t work.


I even soldered wires directly from those ROT66G2 programming viases to my USBASP programmer (so no key was involved) and tried again, however that didn’t work either.


Is your ROT66G2 / LT1 unit a mass production one?


EDIT: my Lexel programming key is v3.2.

GreenCampfire
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 11/27/2019 - 00:51
Posts: 19
Location: USA

I updated the original post with a runtime test for for step level 2. I also updated the charts above for step levels 4 and 3 to more accurately reflect what the relative lumens output is at each step. The steps levels is not a linear progression, for example, step 4 is not 80% of max, step 3 is not 60% of max, etc. This is done intentionally since our eye wouldn’t perceive the change in output as linear even if it was.

ToyKeeper
ToyKeeper's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 18 min ago
Joined: 01/12/2013 - 14:40
Posts: 10809
Location: (469219) 2016 HO3
toobadorz wrote:
I successfully flashed PL47, PL47G2, E01, E07, so I believe the same thing should work with ROT66G2 and LT1 directly. But it didn’t work.

I was doing some work on the PL47 G2 and ROT66 G2 last night, and it took forever to get the ROT66 G2 to flash sometimes. I’m not sure why, but it worked pretty okay a few times and then failed, and it took hundreds of tries to get it to flash again. I was sure I had bricked it somehow, even though the fuse values weren’t touched.

So I’m wondering if maybe there’s still some sort of interaction with the aux LED board like what happened with the first few iterations of the aux LED boards. On the E07 I have to physically disconnect the aux LEDs before flashing firmware.

Eventually I got the ROT66 G2 to flash again, so it’s not bricked. It seemed to respond more often when using a 3.3V setting instead of 5V… but I’m not sure if that was actually relevant.

I haven’t had this issue on a LT1, but I still don’t have a production model.

dealgrabber2002
Offline
Last seen: 45 min 20 sec ago
Joined: 06/20/2014 - 23:51
Posts: 815
Location: California

Thank you so much for doing this GreenCampFire!

toobadorz
toobadorz's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 32 min ago
Joined: 01/10/2017 - 09:04
Posts: 184

ToyKeeper wrote:

I was doing some work on the PL47 G2 and ROT66 G2 last night, and it took forever to get the ROT66 G2 to flash sometimes. I’m not sure why, but it worked pretty okay a few times and then failed, and it took hundreds of tries to get it to flash again. I was sure I had bricked it somehow, even though the fuse values weren’t touched.

So I’m wondering if maybe there’s still some sort of interaction with the aux LED board like what happened with the first few iterations of the aux LED boards. On the E07 I have to physically disconnect the aux LEDs before flashing firmware.

Eventually I got the ROT66 G2 to flash again, so it’s not bricked. It seemed to respond more often when using a 3.3V setting instead of 5V… but I’m not sure if that was actually relevant.

I haven’t had this issue on a LT1, but I still don’t have a production model.

I did try to disconnect the aux LED wires before flashing, but that still didn’t work either after so many times of trials…well, at least I’m not alone Tired

GreenCampfire
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 11/27/2019 - 00:51
Posts: 19
Location: USA

Hi all, I wrote my review of the LT1 lantern here: https://greencampfire.com/blf-lt1-lantern-review/

sbslider
sbslider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 01/22/2017 - 13:41
Posts: 1649
Location: United States

A nice review GreenCampfire. Thumbs Up

One small critique, the statement below could use a tweak.

Quote:
I think the most useful is the battery checker. A triple click from off will make the light blink to show the voltage remaining in the batteries. For example, 3 long blinks followed by 7 short blinks means the batteries are at 3.7V.

The only short blinks during bat check are for a zero.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

dealgrabber2002
Offline
Last seen: 45 min 20 sec ago
Joined: 06/20/2014 - 23:51
Posts: 815
Location: California

You misspelled Sofirn otherwise Great write-up!

raccoon city
raccoon city's picture
Offline
Last seen: 7 hours 47 min ago
Joined: 10/06/2010 - 02:35
Posts: 17291
Location: रॅकून सिटी Palm Desert CA USA

dealgrabber2002 wrote:

You misspelled Sofirn.

And BLF.  ;)

DBSAR
DBSAR's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 10 hours ago
Joined: 02/11/2013 - 23:28
Posts: 6387
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
GreenCampfire wrote:
Hi all, I wrote my review of the LT1 lantern here: https://greencampfire.com/blf-lt1-lantern-review/

Great review! Thumbs Up Beer I will certainly bookmark your website and share the review with others asking about it.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

GreenCampfire
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 2 months ago
Joined: 11/27/2019 - 00:51
Posts: 19
Location: USA

Thanks for the corrections sbslider, dealgrabber2002, and raccoon city, I’ve updated the review to correct the spelling mistakes and blinking behavior.

Also, the manual says the LEDs are 2700K and 5000K, not 3000K and 4000K like I originally wrote which I have updated in the review as well.

Lumeniac
Lumeniac's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 13 hours ago
Joined: 12/19/2016 - 13:47
Posts: 814
Location: Russia

hi, guys.

i`m working on review of this gem, will compare it to CL30R.

 

and i faced question  - what is manual and automatic memory in 5 clicks? tried to search , but couldnt find answer

Kame Sennin
Kame Sennin's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 year 6 months ago
Joined: 09/24/2018 - 14:38
Posts: 347
Location: France

IIRC

Manual : You set the level you want, set the memory to manual and after that the lantern will start with this level at each power On.

Auto : When powering On the lantern will start at the same lvl it was at last power Off.

Lumeniac
Lumeniac's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 13 hours ago
Joined: 12/19/2016 - 13:47
Posts: 814
Location: Russia

grand mercy,

red manual several times, found nothing. strange. 

btw, manual (at least the one i got from sofirn) contains lots ot copy-paste from regular Anduril UI, which dont refer to LT1 -)

 

sbslider
sbslider's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 week 3 days ago
Joined: 01/22/2017 - 13:41
Posts: 1649
Location: United States

English manual is here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1HIFCFcBus5XRjKMfgkjAR7nH1R62qp_5

While the LT1 is on, 5H clicks (not releasing the 5th click, but hold) sets it to manual memory, or where it was last turned off. This is the default. 5C (just 5 clicks) from on sets it to auto memory, where it turns on at the level it was at when you set auto memory.

PocketSammich wrote: I don’t need this, but I want it. Please sign me up.

vestureofblood
vestureofblood's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 7 hours ago
Joined: 08/17/2012 - 15:21
Posts: 2001
Location: Missouri

sbslider wrote:
Out of curiousity I decided to measure the current at 100% WW, 100% NW, and default tint at the five defalut stepped levels.

Level ( WW ) ( NW ) ( Default )
1 (0.016) ) (0.016) ) (0.016 )
2 (0.158) ) (0.158) ) (0.178 )
3 (0.490 ) (0.492) ) (0.492 )
4 (1.01) ) (1.01) ) (1.27)
5 (1.80) ) (1.80) ) (2.23)

For levels 1 and 3, the current is the same for each tint mix. But for levels 2, 4 and 5 the default tint mix current is higher. Used a button top 30Q cell for the measurements.

So with the drive current being 16ma on level one it appears we could reasonably assume 600 hours run time before the first stepdown?

That would make the output on level one like 6 lumens?

In Him (Jesus Christ) was life; and the life was the light of men. And the light shineth in darkness; and the darkness comprehended it not.
http://asflashlights.com/ Everyday Carry Flashlights, plus Upgrades for Maglite.

DBSAR
DBSAR's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 10 hours ago
Joined: 02/11/2013 - 23:28
Posts: 6387
Location: Newfoundland, Canada

vestureofblood wrote:
sbslider wrote:
Out of curiousity I decided to measure the current at 100% WW, 100% NW, and default tint at the five defalut stepped levels.

Level ( WW ) ( NW ) ( Default )
1 (0.016) ) (0.016) ) (0.016 )
2 (0.158) ) (0.158) ) (0.178 )
3 (0.490 ) (0.492) ) (0.492 )
4 (1.01) ) (1.01) ) (1.27)
5 (1.80) ) (1.80) ) (2.23)

For levels 1 and 3, the current is the same for each tint mix. But for levels 2, 4 and 5 the default tint mix current is higher. Used a button top 30Q cell for the measurements.

So with the drive current being 16ma on level one it appears we could reasonably assume 600 hours run time before the first stepdown?

That would make the output on level one like 6 lumens?

His measurements were close to that i was getting too when i was testing the amp loads. (with the 5-AMCs default per channel) 6 lumens average seems to be about that output on the lowest of the stepped ramp setting.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

vestureofblood
vestureofblood's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 7 hours ago
Joined: 08/17/2012 - 15:21
Posts: 2001
Location: Missouri

On the bottom of the driver I see the solder brides to enable more 7135 chips. I also see a screw. What is the screw for?

In Him (Jesus Christ) was life; and the life was the light of men. And the light shineth in darkness; and the darkness comprehended it not.
http://asflashlights.com/ Everyday Carry Flashlights, plus Upgrades for Maglite.

DBSAR
DBSAR's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 days 10 hours ago
Joined: 02/11/2013 - 23:28
Posts: 6387
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
vestureofblood wrote:
On the bottom of the driver I see the solder brides to enable more 7135 chips. I also see a screw. What is the screw for?

correct, there are two extra bridges for enabling up to 7 of the AMC regulator chips for each channel of the tint ramp, (meaning it is even possible to have a lower maximum output on one channel than the other, ( as in a brighter 5000K N/W end and a dimmer maximum 2700K W/W ramp end, or have both equal to increase the total outputs (but loose some run time) I believe Lexel mentioned the varisistor (adjustable resistor as some control of the side switch glow operation, (which has its own mode selections from low, high, candle flicker, off, etc.

That Canadian flashlight guy & Lantern Guru -Den / DBSARlight

Pages