New Olight i1R 2 EOS

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Unheard
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Thanks for the pictures! Yes, it needs a transplant. Terrible tint. Olight sells its gradmother for the last few advertized lumens.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

moderator007
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I couldn’t figure out how this light went together. Played around with it a few minutes and managed to get the head off the battery tube.
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You’ll have to excuse my teflon grease, I greased it up and was about to reassemble before I decided to share what I found.
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It works by having three different contact points. The center stud, spring, and the tube. Off, Low, and High.
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The driver + led look like they are pressed in and may not be easy to get out. I didn’t try it but hopefully someone else may hate the tint way more than me. Wink
I found that when the head is screwed all the way out exposing the usb port if you keep rotating the head there is one place in the rotation that allows the head to kick a little sideways and wiggling the head around in that spot the head came right off without a lot of force. It seems its almost a press fit joint where the tolerences are kept pretty tight but fit with enough force. The key for me was that one little spot rotating the head where it allowed the head to become sideways.

Blackbeard
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I also got the green, seems like they made a lot of green ones.

71k5
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I got lucky and received a free i1R2 in the color I was hoping for, Red.
Yahoo!!!
It came with the Olight early order I placed on 8-10, for the BALDR mini bundle, that included the OD Green i5T.
I noticed the OD Green i5T has a Neutral tint, as compared to my Copper i5T, and my all Black i5T, which have a CW tint.

An Amazon two star review, regarding the OD Green i5T, mentioned it as having a “warm” tint, and returned it for that reason. Anyone else have the ability to confirm there is a difference in tints?

I actually prefer the Neutral tint, and I wish there was an easy way to swap it into the Copper i5T, without damaging them.

xevious
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phouton wrote:
The head does not come off, or at least I have not found how to remove it.

Recently I got a bit worried when it remained charging for three hours before the green “charged” light came on. I had used it a fair bit but the light was still bright, so the battery wasn’t flat. I wondered if it simply wasn’t charging or something was wrong.

The next time, it took an hour, but that was when it had not been used much at all. Olight’s site says it can be fully charged in 75 minutes.

In spite of its two shortcomings (sealed battery, cool low-CRI emitter) I would be quite disappointed if it died. This is the light I use most often, because it’s there when I need it.

I have both the original and the successor. Charging usually takes about 1 to 1.5 hours from low energy state. There are times when I don’t activate it for over a month. I’m charging like once every 6 months. Because of this infrequent cycle, I’m expecting the battery should have a considerably long life.

As for battery replacement… this light is so cheap, there’s really no point. It’s pretty much “disposable.” But I do appreciate the curiosity… you know, that time when in a pinch where you’re on very limited resources and would find use in replacing the battery.

phouton
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@xevious Replacing the battery is not just about cost, but also not being wasteful with the rest of a useful device.

moderator007 wrote:
I found that when the head is screwed all the way out exposing the usb port if you keep rotating the head there is one place in the rotation that allows the head to kick a little sideways and wiggling the head around in that spot the head came right off without a lot of force.

Right you are! I was trying to unscrew, but at that fully opened and somewhat sideways position, pulling the head off works. Although, I did not disassemble further than what is shown in your pic. Still not sure how easy it would be to replace the battery, but I don’t feel like killing it to find out.

I still don’t quite understand how the (three?) contacts and modes work though.

Unheard
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Looks like the spring makes permanent contact, next the button, last the battery tube.

In the most simple case, button and body connect to the driver with resistors, so both are parallel. Spring would be plus, the others minus.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

redmars
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FYI for Australian customers, on their website Olight is currently offering the i1R 2 EOS “for free” by sharing via fb or email and logging in/register – Offer Available at 8pm 24th-midnight 28th Aug(AEST). Just have to pay postage Smile

Hmmm. I currently have a Nitecore tube for my keychain. I’m guessing this will be a nice upgrade, but?

Nitecore weighs 9.6g with battery. Olite 13g. How noticeable will that difference in weight be in the pocket?

p.s. was alerted of this Olite deal via the OzBargain website… and now I’m on the BudgetLF… hmmm……..

First purchase being made right now! ;)

phouton
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@Unheard The spring definitely always makes contact. It looks to me like the threads on both the body and head are unanodized, so I would think they are always in contact too when not completely unscrewed.

High mode is activated before “bottoming out”, i.e. it can still be twisted 2/3 of a turn after turning on High. Since the button does not seem to have any play, the threads of the body and head might indeed be responsible for High, but I don’t get it yet.

@redmars I suspect the smaller dimensions will be more noticeable than the weight difference. It would be impressive to be able to sense a 3.4g difference in the pocket. Big Smile

moderator007
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Unheard wrote:
Looks like the spring makes permanent contact, next the button, last the battery tube.

In the most simple case, button and body connect to the driver with resistors, so both are parallel. Spring would be plus, the others minus.


That’s about the same as what I would guess. I dont think the battery is a cyclinder, probably a small lipo pack formed around the tube. That’s probably what allows the spring to be positive and not the center pin.
Pete7874
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redmars wrote:
I currently have a Nitecore tube for my keychain. I’m guessing this will be a nice upgrade, but?

Nitecore weighs 9.6g with battery. Olite 13g. How noticeable will that difference in weight be in the pocket?


I’m using Nitecore Tube on my keychain as well. I like that the Tube is flatter than i1R 2, weight difference aside. The i1R 2 feels bulkier, even though it’s shorter.

korpzgrinda
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Blackbeard wrote:
I also got the green, seems like they made a lot of green ones.

The package arrived today. It was also that minty green! I’d bet that not many people wanted that color, so they are overloaded with those in stock.
xevious
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phouton wrote:
@xevious Replacing the battery is not just about cost, but also not being wasteful with the rest of a useful device..
True, although considering the cost saved by NOT making it user serviceable for battery replacement makes it a good bit cheaper. So inexpensive for them to make that they can periodically offer them for free as an Olight “product marketing” tool.
contactcr
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moderator007 wrote:
I didn’t try it but hopefully someone else may hate the tint way more than me. Wink
Thumbs Up

The only thing stopping me is this: (see below link for i1r 2 dissasembly)

So not only can I break it once but then a second time since LED is probably on driver board.

Done it before no problem but then this weird LED is probably one with no thermal pad then I’m screwed. Surely its E21A footprint right? Lol

joebob4501
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Someone on r/flashlight disassembled the light down to the emitter/driver board: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/ic381p/does_anyone_recogniz...

It looks similar in size to an E21A or E17A, someone more skilled than me needs to try lol

contactcr
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joebob4501 wrote:
Someone on r/flashlight disassembled the light down to the emitter/driver board: https://www.reddit.com/r/flashlight/comments/ic381p/does_anyone_recogniz...

It looks similar in size to an E21A or E17A, someone more skilled than me needs to try lol

Interesting, wish he showed if there were components on underside of that board and at least measured something.

Unheard
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It is a Luxeon TX, right? That LED has a thermal pad.

Edit: On the original i1R, it looks like you’d need to rip off gasket and polarity protection, then reflow over a candle. Optimal position can be found with a scratch MCPCB and an IR-meter. Was easier with the i3E since it had a button contact. But if that assembly is press fit, all hope is lost for me. I’d need two lights to do such a mod. One to drill out the driver, keeping the shell intact, and one to nibble away the shell, having an intact driver.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

redmars
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Thx for the comparison pic Pete Smile

Yeah I like how flat the Nitecore tube is, but I think I'll still get the Olight just in case I need it, since it looks to be a fair bit brighter Wink

First purchase being made right now! ;)

contactcr
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well I broke some forceps that cost as much as the light using the wrong tool for the job. this one is going on the back burner for me.

Unheard
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I used my old lab forceps, about 50 microns tips and about 200 German Marks in 2000. Gift from a former employer. All went smoothly.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

contactcr
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Unheard wrote:
I used my old lab forceps, about 50 microns tips and about 200 German Marks in 2000. Gift from a former employer. All went smoothly.

Are you referring to the version 2 or version 1? Your Luxeon TX comment refers to V1 because V2 is definitely not a TX and it’s head is assembled differently. If it is V2 you are referring to did you unscrew or pull?

Unheard
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contactcr wrote:
Unheard wrote:
I used my old lab forceps, about 50 microns tips and about 200 German Marks in 2000. Gift from a former employer. All went smoothly.

Are you referring to the version 2 or version 1? Your Luxeon TX comment refers to V1 because V2 is definitely not a TX and it’s head is assembled differently. If it is V2 you are referring to did you unscrew or pull?


Got you wrong. Referred to the i3E I mentioned.

Anyway, don’t own any of the i1R, just concluded from the pictures it was a TX. Only now noticed I saw pictures of the original i1R.

No longer sure I want one of those Sick

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

contactcr
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Unheard wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Unheard wrote:
I used my old lab forceps, about 50 microns tips and about 200 German Marks in 2000. Gift from a former employer. All went smoothly.

Are you referring to the version 2 or version 1? Your Luxeon TX comment refers to V1 because V2 is definitely not a TX and it’s head is assembled differently. If it is V2 you are referring to did you unscrew or pull?


Got you wrong. Referred to the i3E I mentioned.

Anyway, don’t own any of the i1R, just concluded from the pictures it was a TX. Only now noticed I saw pictures of the original i1R.

I will accept vintage pair of high quality German forceps as consolation for this oversight. Smile

Unheard
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contactcr wrote:
Unheard wrote:
contactcr wrote:
Unheard wrote:
I used my old lab forceps, about 50 microns tips and about 200 German Marks in 2000. Gift from a former employer. All went smoothly.

Are you referring to the version 2 or version 1? Your Luxeon TX comment refers to V1 because V2 is definitely not a TX and it’s head is assembled differently. If it is V2 you are referring to did you unscrew or pull?


Got you wrong. Referred to the i3E I mentioned.

Anyway, don’t own any of the i1R, just concluded from the pictures it was a TX. Only now noticed I saw pictures of the original i1R.

I will accept vintage pair of high quality German forceps as consolation for this oversight. Smile


You’ll get … my gratitude for all the good information Big Smile Thumbs Up

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

jp9mm
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korpzgrinda wrote:
Blackbeard wrote:
I also got the green, seems like they made a lot of green ones.
The package arrived today. It was also that minty green! I’d bet that not many people wanted that color, so they are overloaded with those in stock.

Got the same color as well, very nice output for the size and a great 5$ o light

scalpel_ninja
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Got mine today. It didn’t stay green for very long.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Noctigon KR4 Ti/Cu E21A 4500K + 18350 tube | Thrunite Ti3 NW | Wurkkos FC11 x2 swapped to Nichia 219B 3500K | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | Nitecore D10 Custom with Anduril | Jetbeam RRT01vn 3000K | Thrunite T10 Ti | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K

Unheard
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Announced for 8/18 and 8/25, the GAW on olightstore.de has started today.

Smile, you cannot kill them all.

Nite Shadow
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scalpel_ninja wrote:
Got mine today. It didn’t stay green for very long.

scalpel_ninja, it looks great! Thumbs Up
How did you do that and what did you use, if you would be so kind to share?
Thanks! Smile

scalpel_ninja
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I used Easy Off oven cleaner. I carefully sprayed some into a disposable plastic container. Then I removed the O-ring and used a small paintbrush to apply it, being careful not to get it into the charging port or charge indicator. Let it sit for 10 minutes, then wipe with a damp paper towel. I did the back half first, then the LED end. When finished, I wiped it again with a damp cloth towel. I installed the O-ring and twisted it closed and rinsed it in the sink to get any residual chemical off.

It was a bit splotchy, so I used a Dremel with buffing wheel and polish to finish.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Noctigon KR4 Ti/Cu E21A 4500K + 18350 tube | Thrunite Ti3 NW | Wurkkos FC11 x2 swapped to Nichia 219B 3500K | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | Nitecore D10 Custom with Anduril | Jetbeam RRT01vn 3000K | Thrunite T10 Ti | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K

Nite Shadow
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scalpel_ninja wrote:
I used Easy Off oven cleaner. I carefully sprayed some into a disposable plastic container. Then I removed the O-ring and used a small paintbrush to apply it, being careful not to get it into the charging port or charge indicator. Let it sit for 10 minutes, then wipe with a damp paper towel. I did the back half first, then the LED end. When finished, I wiped it again with a damp cloth towel. I installed the O-ring and twisted it closed and rinsed it in the sink to get any residual chemical off.

It was a bit splotchy, so I used a Dremel with buffing wheel and polish to finish.

Thanks for the quick reply and the detailed procedure you used! Gives me the confidence I can do it too! It looks really great! Thanks again! Big Smile Thumbs Up

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