Olight S2R II and S1R II emiter swap

24 posts / 0 new
Last post
lcddisplay
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 11/03/2019 - 08:52
Posts: 14
Olight S2R II and S1R II emiter swap

Hi,

could someone help me with choosing the right emiter for my Olight S1R II and S2R II. I really like these flashlights, but the cool white is just awful.

I know that S1R II is using a CREE XM-L2 LED and S2R II is using a Luminus SST40-W. I found some on Aliexpress, could someone tell me if they will work fine? I want the same LED’s in both.

https://aliexpress.com/item/1081977362.html?spm=a2g17.12010612.8148356.3...

Will the Olight driver support them?

Thanks very much for help!

Chatika vas Paus
Chatika vas Paus's picture
Offline
Last seen: 9 hours 10 min ago
Joined: 09/03/2017 - 13:46
Posts: 1092

lcddisplay wrote:

they will work fine?

Will the Olight driver support them?

Yes and yes.
Solder pads for xml2 and sst40 are identical.
4C looks pretty good behind the tir optics. A good choice to start with Thumbs Up

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 7020
Location: Portugal

Before modding, take a look here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67492

lcddisplay
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 11/03/2019 - 08:52
Posts: 14

Chatika vas Paus wrote:
lcddisplay wrote:

they will work fine?

Will the Olight driver support them?

Yes and yes.
Solder pads for xml2 and sst40 are identical.
4C looks pretty good behind the tir optics. A good choice to start with Thumbs Up

Awesome! Thanks! Blushing

Quote:
Before modding, take a look here: http://budgetlightforum.com/node/67492

I will do my best not to damage anything. Thanks!

lcddisplay
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 11/03/2019 - 08:52
Posts: 14

I have managed without any problems with the S1R II.

But has anyone opened the S2R II?

I have a copper version and don’t want to destroy it.

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3778
Location: North Carolina

I just opened my S1R ll. Used a utility knife blade. Once the bezel starting coming apart and the blade had pushed it out as far as it was going to go, I ground the sharp part of the blade down a little on one end of the blade and that pushed it out a little more. Then I took the top of the blade and ground a blunt bevel on it it and fliped the utility blade over and drove that in the bezel groove. The bezel came right out with no damage. So now I got a stand alone tool that will remove olight bezel’s. The mcpcb is 14mm but its very thin. Somewhere around .6mm. Ground a 16mm copper mcpcb from KD down to 14mm and I’m still working on thinning the thickness down. Going to use a LH351D 3500k with the KD mcpcb. I have been putting this mod off for awhile and this thread got me interested again in trying it. So far so good. Thumbs Up

lcddisplay
Offline
Last seen: 2 weeks 3 days ago
Joined: 11/03/2019 - 08:52
Posts: 14

S1R II was very easy.

I swaped to XM-L2 T6-4C:

On the left you can see the T6-4C and on the right it’s the S2R II with the SST40:

https://imgur.com/VE9foU2

Beamshots (left S1R II new LED, right S2R II)

https://imgur.com/o6Aohf4

I want the same LED in the S2R II but it’s difficult to open. The copper is very soft and easy to damage.

moderator007
moderator007's picture
Online
Last seen: 1 min 9 sec ago
Joined: 12/23/2012 - 04:47
Posts: 3778
Location: North Carolina

I swapped out XM-L2 for a LH351D 3500k 90cri and got 780 lumens OTF. That might improve if a optic made for a 3535 led could be found to fit.

ahavoja
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 7 hours ago
Joined: 11/26/2020 - 08:32
Posts: 9

I swapped the emitter to Olight Warrior Mini. This same destructive method should work for S2R-II too.

As a first step I used a lathe to cut away the surrounding aluminum from around the blue bezel ring.

This resulted in a Warrior Mini with a chamfered head.

This made it possible to insert a thin knife blade into the gap between the bezel ring and the flashlight body, and use a hammer to drive the blade into the gap. First using a thinner blade, then a wider blade, hammering from different sides, slowly the bezel ring started to come off. The chamfer may also help the flashlight to slide more easily into my pocket. I also used the lathe to remove the pointy tactical strike bezel things on the bezel ring to make it smooth.

In the picture you see the original SST-40 inside. I changed it to this LH351D on another 3535 sized MCPCB. It made the hotspot wider, reduced throw, decreased lumens, increased CRI, and lowered CCT. The tint is nice on Turbo mode, but on lower modes my LH351D makes the hotspot slightly greenish tinted. I may try slicing the LED dome in the future to improve the tint (and throw as well). When I sliced the LH351D on my S1R-II, it made the hotspot less greenish than unsliced. Also after slicing the hotspot became smaller than with the original XM-L2.

thefreeman
thefreeman's picture
Offline
Last seen: 5 hours 54 min ago
Joined: 01/06/2020 - 09:56
Posts: 1068
Location: France

I would destroy the TIR optic rather than the body, the former being replaceable, this is how I and several other people open Zebralights and this can be done without a scratch on the body.

ahavoja
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 7 hours ago
Joined: 11/26/2020 - 08:32
Posts: 9

Here’s a beam comparison for some modded Olights in Low mode. The left one is a stock S1R-II. The Warrior Mini with 4000K LH351D is noticeably green to eyes. Slicing the 5000K LH351D to 0.85 mm brings it close to 4000K, while slicing it to 1.0 mm leaves it a bit above 4000K. Slicing also reduces the green tint and reduces the angular tint shift that causes the hotspot to be differently tinted than the spill. On the 3rd light from left you can see how slicing makes the hotspot smaller than on the 1st and 2nd lights. The LH351Ds are the 90 CRI versions.

The S2R-II on the right side has a beaded 17 mm diameter Yajiamei 20 degree XM-L TIR lens filed down 0.5 mm to fit with 1.6 mm thick Noctigon XP16, that also had to be filed down to 14 mm diameter. While slicing the led dome makes the beam narrower, the beaded TIR still makes it even wider than the original TIR.

The S2R-II disassembled. Original TIR and MCPCB on the right. The replacing TIR on the left.

Link to the above photos.

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 hours 44 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 2111
Location: Croatia

Great post ahavoja.

did you use the same TIR in Mini as in S1/2?

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

ahavoja
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 7 hours ago
Joined: 11/26/2020 - 08:32
Posts: 9

Thanks.

Both S1Rs and Warrior Mini on the picture have just their original Olight TIRs. I didn’t measure exactly, but I would guess Olight uses the same TIR in all those lights.

On the other hand it’s strange that calculating the candela/lumen ratio from Olight’s specs gives different numbers for each light. This would hint that there is some difference between their optics. The difference between 4 and 6 cd/lm is not that big though, so I dunno:

  • Warrior Mini: 9025cd / 1500lm = 6.0
  • S1R-II: 5250cd / 1000lm = 5.3
  • S2R-II: 4600cd / 1150lm = 4.0

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 hours 44 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 2111
Location: Croatia

I guess...

I drilled mine, didn't wanna damage ring nor head. Ordered some Yaijamei's but shipping takes ages...

 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

ahavoja
Offline
Last seen: 6 months 7 hours ago
Joined: 11/26/2020 - 08:32
Posts: 9

Took some measurements from my S2R-II original Olight TIR:

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 hours 44 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 2111
Location: Croatia

Yeap, the same as in Mini. Those meassurements i’ve used to order Yaijamei

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

KevinZA1988
KevinZA1988's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 02/26/2018 - 02:26
Posts: 808
Location: South Africa

You can open the S1R II without destroying the optics. Use a carpenter knife blade with a hammer and slowly work the blade between the head and the bezel, all the way around. The bezel will separate and eventually pop off. The 3000K and 5700K XM-L2 from Kaidomain have really nice tints.

To install 3535 LED’s you can sand down a 16mm Noctigon MCPCB to 14mm diameter. That is just before the + and – pads. Then you will have to sand down the thickness to 1mm. That’s the most difficult part. But I managed to do it and I’m running a XP-L HI 3300K 7A in one of my little Batons. But I swapped to the Yajiamei beaded optic and the beam is wonderful! Small emitting surface LED’s don’t play well with the stock optic.

Be very careful with the MCPCB when doing mods. Always test for a short circuit between the + and ground, as well as – and ground of the MCPCB before soldering the driver wires. If you have a short your driver will be toast and you will sit with an expensive but pretty paperweight.

Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

id30209
id30209's picture
Offline
Last seen: 11 hours 44 min ago
Joined: 05/17/2018 - 12:20
Posts: 2111
Location: Croatia

Thx Kevin.

On Warrior Mini bezel ring is not accessible as on S1/2 models...

 

One other note, Sofirn SP10S stock MCPCB fits perfect in Olight S1/2 and Warrior Mini. It doesn't require sanding thickness, maybe trimming a bit width but thickness is 1mm and it's copper. You just need to have SP10S 

WTB Titanium 4sevens 2xAA tube

KevinZA1988
KevinZA1988's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 02/26/2018 - 02:26
Posts: 808
Location: South Africa

Yes, indeed. Sacrificing an optic is the only way with that and the S2R II. The issue I have with that is you are stuck with a 20 deg optic and floody beam. That makes the choice of LED difficult of you want at least half decent throw.

Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 7020
Location: Portugal

Has anyone, during these mods, measured the internal diameter of the head of the S1R Baton II?

If someone knows, please inform here Wink

KevinZA1988
KevinZA1988's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 months 4 weeks ago
Joined: 02/26/2018 - 02:26
Posts: 808
Location: South Africa

Just over 14mm.

Acebeam L18, Armytek Prime C1 Pro, Armytek Prime C2 Pro, Armytek Tiara C1 Pro, Astrolux MF01 Mini, BLF Q8, BLF A6, BLF FW1A, BLF FW3A, BLF FW3C, BLF LT1, Convoy L6, Convoy C8+ , Convoy S3, Emisar D4, Fireflies E07, Jaxman E2L, Manta Ray C8.2 long version, Olight S1R Baton II special edition series, S2R Baton II, Olight Baton 3, Olight Warrior Mini, Olight M2R Pro Warrior.

Most of them have been modded! =)

https://photos.app.goo.gl/JaJaDv4V838AEJf39

pol77
Offline
Last seen: 46 min 28 sec ago
Joined: 02/21/2019 - 07:54
Posts: 427
Location: London

Thanks guys, very informative.

It would be nice to have the links to the optics that fit in each model, including multiple optic choices if available.

A small video showing the drilling technique and any tools used to pull out the destroyed optic and bezel would also be very useful.

ArtieT59
ArtieT59's picture
Offline
Last seen: 8 hours 14 min ago
Joined: 02/25/2020 - 17:55
Posts: 3248
Location: CT, USA

 I have recenlty swapped emitters on warrior mini winter ti, enternal copper, and s2r2 baton Ti courage model. All of them i drill the optic/destroy orignal optic to remove bezel. learned this from id30209 and youtube. works fine, just GO EASY. i have not ruined anything yet except for the stock emitter which i throw away anyway (7000k sst40).

 

I installed xpl-hi 4000k, 2850k, and nichia 219b sw30. all look VERY nice and transforms these beautiful lights into some of my favorite EDC. 

 

I order the replacement optics from Alixpress, yaijamei (17mm optic) i use theclear 15 degree or 25 degree spot, but i hear the beaded gives nice beam too.

 

I use the 12mm MtnE copper mcpcb. I sand down the base of the replacement optic to compesnate for the thicker mcpcb (1.0mm is stock mcpcb, 1.5mm in MtnE board). much easier to sand the plastic optic BASE than the copper mcpcb..

 

If doing a dopper Olight ust be careful how hard you clamp it in your vice, i almost disfigured mine where the battery tube wouldnt have threaded on. its fine, but it was an eye opening moment. copper is soft, i forgot bc i did Ti first time.

 

Good luck! its all very easy once you get the damn bezel out. no need to use lathe unless you want to or are really well versed. i use a simple drill press to drill holes in the optic so i can fit needle noze pliers in it and set it in my vice and it pops out in about 5 minutes with a decent amount of force. 

 

*Ti Warrior Mini (xpl-hi 2850k) - my favorite Olight

https://imgur.com/a/2VMVlPM

https://imgur.com/a/pTQHrPJ

 

Cu Warrior Mini (xpl-hi-hi 4000k)

https://imgur.com/a/DFDRY2o

 

 

Ti S2r2 (Nichia 219b sw30)

https://imgur.com/a/sw3zKGK 

 

 *I know the optic is slightly unlevel on the Ti WM, it was my first time sanding the optic base and it wasn't square, but the beam is perfect and i am leaving it for now lol.

 

 

 

 

[FLF] Five Light Friday https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78749

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

My Sft40 beamshots / comparison thread: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/78100

The BLF GT with SFT40 (2300lm, 2700m+ @ 30 seconds!)
https://budgetlightforum.com/node/79561

MascaratumB
MascaratumB's picture
Offline
Last seen: 6 hours 24 min ago
Joined: 10/29/2016 - 12:12
Posts: 7020
Location: Portugal

KevinZA1988 wrote:
Just over 14mm.

Thank you very much Wink