LED for asperical lens, Utorch S1 mini

[Unheard]

There’s a XP-L HD built into the Utorch S1 mini. Color of the NW-model is pretty nice but beam has rings. In contrast, the Klarus Mi1C (non-HCRI version) comes with the same lens but with a XP-L Hi, no rings.

I imagine a lens produces the cleanest beam with a small, domeless LED. Is my imagination in compliance with the theory? If yes, the smallest LED I have is the SST-20 (I have a couple of 4000K LEDs), but it has a dome. Now, if I’m right thus far, would you think dedoming it would give an optimal beam? Or is a XP-L Hi better? Other non-CW non-lousy-CRI options?

[EasyB]

The rings might be coming from a part of the flashlight like the bezel, rather than whether it is a dome vs domeless LED.

You can usually track down the source of the rings by aligning your eye with the ring(s) and looking into the flashlight (in a low mode) to see where the light is coming from.

[Unheard]

Clever

The outer ring comes from the bezel. There’s a dark center spot surrounded by a bright ring, then a less bright radial area. This must come from the LED.

I’d take a picture, but the artifacts are best visible only when moving the beam.

It’s not that disturbing, but since the Klarus does better with the same lens, I thought I could do something about it.

Congrats to post #2000

[jon_slider]

more Utorch S1 Mini NW beamshots here

Olight S1 Mini High CRI and Utorch S1 Mini NW, now w N219b and E21A

Olight 42 grams w battery and clip includes awesome USB 16340 Clip works on a hat Beam is tight with large hotspot Extra Green Tint around the corona click on, hold to change modes, click off, tail magnet is not strong but works, even sideways no keyring attachment on tailcap High CRI Difficult to Open to Modify Moonlight can be memorized Strobe is a triple click from any mode including off modes: spec 0.5-12-50-250-450. my meter 0.3-11-39-181-460/360@1 min, 270@2 min Utorch 47 gr…

I had the LED changed to N219b 4500k (pics on page 3 of that link)

[Unheard]

I like the E21A

[jon_slider]

@Unheard

I like the E21A :heart_eyes:

me too, Clemence did a great job on that mod

However, my Warm LEDs see very little actual use. They are best for full dark situations, such as camping (which I have not been doing), or late night walks to the bathroom (but I dont really need it, due to streetlight coming in the window at night).

the 4500k 219b is more practical for most of my uses

I really like the aspheric beam, though I agree it is not perfect (especially the outside edge), it is very useful for close work. I do agree that the bezel produces its own artifact… I used a black marker to eliminate its reflections.

[Unheard]

I had the Klarus, too, and soon will get an OTR i3. Can’t resist those lights. Agreed, NW is most of the time a comfortable color temperature. WW lights are candles in my houshold.

[MascaratumB]

@Unheard

I had the Klarus, too, and soon will get an OTR i3. Can’t resist those lights. Agreed, NW is most of the time a comfortable color temperature. WW lights are candles in my houshold.

The i3 is a zoomie, unlike the Klarus flashlight!
On it I am using a Samsung LH351D led, and I “blackened” the gasket, the metal gasket and even some parts on the edge of the optic/lens.
Also, the Samsung LH351D is great for flood, but when completely focused, at a certain distance and against a white wall, you can see other colours in the die.

I guess maybe a Luxen V2 (3000K) would be good a good option for these lights!

[Unheard]

I ordered it with the XM-L2 5C. Hope I can stand it as it is, but won’t hestitate to do something about it if not

Edit: Just tried SST-20, shaved SST-20 and Samsung in the Utorch . Reverted it to the nice NW XP-L HD. The SST-20 was interesting. Yellow/purpel rings! I’ll leave it now as it is.