The new UI looks much better than before, but I would prefer moonligh to not be in a different group (what’s the point ?), it’s the same for the thrunite T1, you can turn on directly on moonlight but if you want to go to low, well you can’t, not directly at least, you have to turn off, then single clic which bring you to the last mode used in the main group and then cycle to low and potentially blind you in the process.
Good point. I don’t understand why they have to split the moonlight. All the other manufacturers have moonlight with the main modes. I wish Manker fix this in their next version. Otherwise the new UI is perfect.
The “perfect” UI is hard to obtain by everyone’s standards. But to be fair to Manker, this looks pretty darn close as far as UI’s are concerned. I’m worried a little bit about mode spacing, but we’ll see. This is the first Manker (along with the MC13) that I’ve been interested in in a while.
Manker is quite well-known brand among flashlight enthusiasts, but they don’t have a good opinion. The main reason is the lack of manufacturer support and problems with the warranty.
I think it is much simpler. We are called budget light forum and most Manker flashlights are priced a little bit higher than we like. Some of their lights were cloned and on BLF we often embraced/encouraged the clones which (I think) make Manker not really like their customers, not really do much interaction and forum discounts etc.
Regarding their UI, I don’t really feel too strongly about click for off versus hold for off. I know many people do though.
I got a few of E02 and E03 models (AA/AAA right-angle) and I like them a lot.
A nice clean design from Manker.
Dumb question, why Manker is not popular?
It seems like they just do not care about marketing their or reach out other customer.
Can not even find Manker on Amazon.
they have not been popular because their UI so far has been one of the worst,
and they continued to use a terrible switch that fails early due to poor design, and is impossible to fix.
(the switch has a blue LED in it that they do fancy things with, but i have seen it break very soon in 2 different lights)
i think the new light does not use the bad UI or the bad switch.
wle
—
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you,or you're having a good day." Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles". It never gets easy, you just go faster. -Greg Lemond. ,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
That Manker E14 looks tempting. Similar size to my Lumintop EDC18. Takes 18650’s which I have plenty of anyways. Copper heat sink too. I think I’ll pick one up.
My keychain light is the Manker LAD 2 and never had problems with it aside from the USB rubber cap that really doesn’t stay shut.
Manker is quite well-known brand among flashlight enthusiasts, but they don’t have a good opinion. The main reason is the lack of manufacturer support and problems with the warranty. Although the flashlights are imho a very good quality, problems often do arise.
Another reason is their (old?) UI. Reproduced in many flashlights and almost always criticized. Nobody likes long click for on/off. The new one looks much better.
See this thread where people complain about Manker. I have a few of their flashlights, but I don’t use them often, so I won’t comment on that. Although I had no problems with them.
Thank you very much for the information. Now I understand why people do not like Manker. Despite making good (looking) product they do not stand by them or care about their customer.
they continued to use a terrible switch that fails early due to poor design and is impossible to fix.
(the switch has a blue LED in it that they do fancy things with, but i have seen it break very soon in 2 different lights)
i think the new light does not use the bad UI or the bad switch.
wle
That’s exactly what I see from a lot of posts. Their switch usually go bad after a while but they just deny warranty or do not respond to contact from the customer. Hopefully, they can learn the lesson from the past.
I wish 5000K were an option, but at least we have options. I’ve had plenty of the 5000K LH351D, but never tried a 4000K. I’ve had plenty of 4000K SST20s and I’m ok with them, but 5000K is still my preferred CCT.
- Built-in removable silica gel light filter plastic sheet (green)
Is listed in the specs, can anyone explain exactly what that means?
This is great, I didn’t paid attention to that line.
I suppose it means that a round piece of minus green filter is included, like those LEE filter some people stick to their flashlight to reduce the green tint. “(Green)” probably refers to what’s being filtered out, because these filters are pink.
- Built-in removable silica gel light filter plastic sheet (green)
Is listed in the specs, can anyone explain exactly what that means?
This is great, I didn’t paid attention to that line.
I suppose it means that a round piece of minus green filter is included, like those LEE filter some people stick to their flashlight to reduce the green tint. “(Green)” probably refers to what’s being filtered out, because these filters are pink.
Yes, that’s what I’m thinking as well, just trying to get verification.
Since ramping is so ‘trendy’ I think they should have included an optional ramping interface. For commercial reasons (to sell more units).
I think the only reason ramping is so trendy is because so many companies fail so badly on providing adequate mode spacing. Ramping fixes that issue as long as the light is capable of a low enough low.
Since ramping is so ‘trendy’ I think they should have included an optional ramping interface. For commercial reasons (to sell more units).
I think the only reason ramping is so trendy is because so many companies fail so badly on providing adequate mode spacing. Ramping fixes that issue as long as the light is capable of a low enough low.
This is a valid point.It is exactly what I think. I have multiple ramping lights,they’re fun to play with but Im not use them much.
If a light has good spacing and UI such as Zebralight, they would NOT need ramping feature at all.
For me the appeal of ramping was you could choose any brightness you wanted, and it was sort of a universal UI that would work for lots of different lights/uses. Typically different lights with different uses and max power levels would have different mode levels, and so in principle using ramping on all those lights could simplify the process of choosing a driver and modes for your lights.
The main drawback of ramping is that you don’t really know the power and runtime of any particular mode, but I think it’s still a good UI for a general use light where you are not concerned so much with runtime.
agree that even , logical level spacing is never considered
i could live without ramping if i had a 1 lumen low, going to 3, 10, 30, 100, 300, etc
the FW3A has stepped mode, that would be fine if that was all
but i like the ramp mode better, still, i have tried switching back and forth and never seem to stay stepped for long
wle
—
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you,or you're having a good day." Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles". It never gets easy, you just go faster. -Greg Lemond. ,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
For me the appeal of ramping was you could choose any brightness you wanted, and it was sort of a universal UI that would work for lots of different lights/uses. Typically different lights with different uses and max power levels would have different mode levels, and so in principle using ramping on all those lights could simplify the process of choosing a driver and modes for your lights.
The main drawback of ramping is that you don’t really know the power and runtime of any particular mode, but I think it’s still a good UI for a general use light where you are not concerned so much with runtime.
i never worry about run time with any 18650
i do, with anything else
including 18350
wle
—
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you,or you're having a good day." Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles". It never gets easy, you just go faster. -Greg Lemond. ,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
because we set a special function with moonlight mode, we offer some different moonlight levels for choosing.
right – i remember that from the U11 interface, the settable moonlight
none of them were right:)
just give me 6 or 8 optically-evenly spaced levels
so simple
wle
—
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you,or you're having a good day." Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles". It never gets easy, you just go faster. -Greg Lemond. ,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
Output measured at 2s with Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights. Light parameters measured with Sekonic C-800-U
Manker E02II
Turbo
170 lumens
3963K
0.0008 DUV
96.6 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
90.3 R9
79.3 R12
93 Rf
101 Rg
Ladda 900
Manker E02II
High
81 lumens
3943K
0.0016 DUV
97.5 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 0.85
92.9 R9
77.7 R12
93 Rf
100 Rg
Ladda 900
Manker E02II
Low
29 lumens
3957K
0.0021 DUV
97.6 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 0.88
94.3 R9
76.0 R12
92 Rf
99 Rg
Ladda 900
Manker E02II
Moonlight
0 lumens
3974K
-0.0005 DUV
97.4 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 0.98
97.1 R9
75.8 R12
91 Rf
99 Rg
Ladda 900
Manker MC13
Low
70 lumens
6454K
0.0042 DUV
67.2 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
-36.1 R9
36.7 R12
63 Rf
95 Rg
included 18650 battery
Manker MC13
Mid
145 lumens
6974K
0.0004 DUV
67.5 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
-27.5 R9
38.6 R12
62 Rf
96 Rg
included 18650 battery
Manker MC13
High
292 lumens
7066K
-0.0006 DUV
67.1 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
-25.4 R9
39.7 R12
61 Rf
97 Rg
included 18650 battery
Manker MC13
Turbo
630 lumens
8686K
-0.0078 DUV
70.4 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
-1.0 R9
43.5 R12
62 Rf
98 Rg
included 18650 and 18350 battery
Manker E14 III
Low
144 lumens
4222K
0.0083 DUV
91.9 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
67.1 R9
68.4 R12
91 Rf
98 Rg
included 18350 battery
Manker E14 III
Mid
286 lumens
4234K
0.0079 DUV
91.8 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
66.6 R9
68.6 R12
91 Rf
98 Rg
included 18350 battery
Manker E14 III
High
627 lumens
4256K
0.0078 DUV
91.6 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
65.6 R9
69.0 R12
91 Rf
98 Rg
included 18350 battery
Manker E14 III
Turbo
2,069 lumens
4319K
0.0069 DUV
91.0 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
63.0 R9
70.1 R12
91 Rf
99 Rg
included 18350 battery
Manker E14 III
Turbo
2,328 lumens
4313K
0.0059 DUV
91.3 CRI
Blue light relative amplitude 1.00
63.9 R9
70.9 R12
91 Rf
99 Rg
included 18650 battery
I also have a MC13vn with W2.1 with boosted driver on order and will measure it once I receive it. The MC13 is actually a good bit larger than I thought as I was imagining something slightly bigger than a GT Mini. The optic appears identical to the one used in the Acebeam E10 and L17. Though for some reason the hotspot seems just a tiny bit smaller than in the E10 and hotspot is more uniform. Maybe its just the focus is a bit different between the two. The MC13 measures 630 lumens on turbo while E10 measures 562 lumens. I'm not sure how much of it is due to the MC13 using the CULNM1.tg vs E10 using CSLNM1.tg or whether it is just the driver pushing more output in the MC13. Build quality is very high on both the MC13 and E4 III.
With the E4III, the tint (positive DUV) is unfortunately too green for my taste, which is typical for all the LH351D 4000K 90CRI I've seen. I will see what I can do with some minus green filters and maybe swap in some UCL lens if I can find compatible diameter lens. Also I feel that with 18650, it should be able to output much higher but the potential is limited by high resistance due to springs barely pushing on the battery contacts. I guess it was designed to accommodate long cells with built-in USB-C charge.
The included Manker 18350 and 18650 cells measure 1,180mah and 3,063mah. The 1,180mah is higher than 7 out of 8 of the legendary Aspire 18350 and older batch of Vapcell 18350; both of which rewrapped the older, better batch of YDL cells. The YDL cells in the last two years went down hill a bit and measure under 1,100mah. Not sure if I won the cell lottery or if Manker got a really good or improved YDL cell. The 18650 is probably a Samsung 30Q.
- Built-in removable silica gel light filter plastic sheet (green)
Is listed in the specs, can anyone explain exactly what that means?
This is great, I didn’t paid attention to that line.
I suppose it means that a round piece of minus green filter is included, like those LEE filter some people stick to their flashlight to reduce the green tint. “(Green)” probably refers to what’s being filtered out, because these filters are pink.
Can this be confirmed? I don’t know why they’d sell a light with an LED that they felt the need to include a minus green filter. Why not just use a good LED like the SST-20s they are using in their E02 II?
- Built-in removable silica gel light filter plastic sheet (green)
Is listed in the specs, can anyone explain exactly what that means?
This is great, I didn’t paid attention to that line.
I suppose it means that a round piece of minus green filter is included, like those LEE filter some people stick to their flashlight to reduce the green tint. “(Green)” probably refers to what’s being filtered out, because these filters are pink.
Can this be confirmed? I don’t know why they’d sell a light with an LED that they felt the need to include a minus green filter. Why not just use a good LED like the SST-20s they are using in their E02 II?
Because not everyone are tint snobs like us. Also LH351D is much brighter and more efficient than the SST-20. Even with the minus green Lee Filter to achieve the same tint as the SST-20, the LH351D should still be brighter and more efficient.
- Built-in removable silica gel light filter plastic sheet (green)
Is listed in the specs, can anyone explain exactly what that means?
This is great, I didn’t paid attention to that line.
I suppose it means that a round piece of minus green filter is included, like those LEE filter some people stick to their flashlight to reduce the green tint. “(Green)” probably refers to what’s being filtered out, because these filters are pink.
Can this be confirmed? I don’t know why they’d sell a light with an LED that they felt the need to include a minus green filter. Why not just use a good LED like the SST-20s they are using in their E02 II?
Because not everyone are tint snobs like us. Also LH351D is much brighter and more efficient than the SST-20. Even with the minus green Lee Filter to achieve the same tint as the SST-20, the LH351D should still be brighter and more efficient.
Good point. I don’t understand why they have to split the moonlight. All the other manufacturers have moonlight with the main modes. I wish Manker fix this in their next version. Otherwise the new UI is perfect.
The “perfect” UI is hard to obtain by everyone’s standards. But to be fair to Manker, this looks pretty darn close as far as UI’s are concerned. I’m worried a little bit about mode spacing, but we’ll see. This is the first Manker (along with the MC13) that I’ve been interested in in a while.
I think it is much simpler. We are called budget light forum and most Manker flashlights are priced a little bit higher than we like. Some of their lights were cloned and on BLF we often embraced/encouraged the clones which (I think) make Manker not really like their customers, not really do much interaction and forum discounts etc.
Regarding their UI, I don’t really feel too strongly about click for off versus hold for off. I know many people do though.
I got a few of E02 and E03 models (AA/AAA right-angle) and I like them a lot.
they have not been popular because their UI so far has been one of the worst,
and they continued to use a terrible switch that fails early due to poor design, and is impossible to fix.
(the switch has a blue LED in it that they do fancy things with, but i have seen it break very soon in 2 different lights)
i think the new light does not use the bad UI or the bad switch.
wle
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
It never gets easy, you just go faster. -Greg Lemond.
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
That Manker E14 looks tempting. Similar size to my Lumintop EDC18. Takes 18650’s which I have plenty of anyways. Copper heat sink too. I think I’ll pick one up.
My keychain light is the Manker LAD 2 and never had problems with it aside from the USB rubber cap that really doesn’t stay shut.
Thank you very much for the information. Now I understand why people do not like Manker. Despite making good (looking) product they do not stand by them or care about their customer.
That’s exactly what I see from a lot of posts. Their switch usually go bad after a while but they just deny warranty or do not respond to contact from the customer. Hopefully, they can learn the lesson from the past.
Manker CS says: NW: 4000K, CRI>90.
Thanks for pointing that out. I’m not sure if it was there before (I don’t remember seeing it) but the product page now says:
I wish 5000K were an option, but at least we have options. I’ve had plenty of the 5000K LH351D, but never tried a 4000K. I’ve had plenty of 4000K SST20s and I’m ok with them, but 5000K is still my preferred CCT.
we choose 4000k for NW,high CRI.
Mail:sales@mankerlight.com
Web: www.mankerlight.com
Welcome to join Mankerlight Group in Facebook.
- Built-in removable silica gel light filter plastic sheet (green)
Is listed in the specs, can anyone explain exactly what that means?
This is great, I didn’t paid attention to that line.
I suppose it means that a round piece of minus green filter is included, like those LEE filter some people stick to their flashlight to reduce the green tint. “(Green)” probably refers to what’s being filtered out, because these filters are pink.
USB power meter/tester thread
Yes, that’s what I’m thinking as well, just trying to get verification.
Here is the E14 III and MC13 together. Hopefully there will be some impressions soon
Hum, I like it
MY REVIEWS THREAD /// My Flashlight Collection ///
Mods: 1 / 2 // TIR: 1 / 2 // Others: Biscotti 3 + 1*7135 / Triple TIR w/ XP-G2 /// My Review's Blog (PT) /// OL Contest 2019 /// OL Contest 2020 /// GIVEAWAYs: 1 / 2
I think the only reason ramping is so trendy is because so many companies fail so badly on providing adequate mode spacing. Ramping fixes that issue as long as the light is capable of a low enough low.
This is a valid point.It is exactly what I think. I have multiple ramping lights,they’re fun to play with but Im not use them much.
If a light has good spacing and UI such as Zebralight, they would NOT need ramping feature at all.
Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Nichia + CW| Lumintop Tool AAA | Lumintop EDC 18 6500k| Lumintop EDC 01| Convoy S2+ 7135*8 5000k | Convoy S2 UV Nichia |Massdrop Vega AA NW |BLF A6 NW | Nitecore Tube 2.0 | Sofirn SD 05 | Sofirn 01S 4000k| Klaurus G15 | Klarus HR1 Pro | Thrunite T10T v2 NW| Thrunite T1 Black + OD Green | Thrunite Ti3 CW+ NW| |Rovyvon A3x Nichia | Rovyvon A5x Cree | Rovyvon A23 Nichia | Wuben E19 Nichia | MecArmy SGN 6 | Wowtac BSS V4 | Wowtac W1 | Wowtac H01 | Ultratac A3N Nichia | Wurkkos FC11 | Wurkkos WK30
Thrunite T2 |
For me the appeal of ramping was you could choose any brightness you wanted, and it was sort of a universal UI that would work for lots of different lights/uses. Typically different lights with different uses and max power levels would have different mode levels, and so in principle using ramping on all those lights could simplify the process of choosing a driver and modes for your lights.
The main drawback of ramping is that you don’t really know the power and runtime of any particular mode, but I think it’s still a good UI for a general use light where you are not concerned so much with runtime.
Let’s Get The Party Started –
Anyone said party ?!
Lumintop Tool AA 2.0 Nichia + CW| Lumintop Tool AAA | Lumintop EDC 18 6500k| Lumintop EDC 01| Convoy S2+ 7135*8 5000k | Convoy S2 UV Nichia |Massdrop Vega AA NW |BLF A6 NW | Nitecore Tube 2.0 | Sofirn SD 05 | Sofirn 01S 4000k| Klaurus G15 | Klarus HR1 Pro | Thrunite T10T v2 NW| Thrunite T1 Black + OD Green | Thrunite Ti3 CW+ NW| |Rovyvon A3x Nichia | Rovyvon A5x Cree | Rovyvon A23 Nichia | Wuben E19 Nichia | MecArmy SGN 6 | Wowtac BSS V4 | Wowtac W1 | Wowtac H01 | Ultratac A3N Nichia | Wurkkos FC11 | Wurkkos WK30
Thrunite T2 |
agree that even , logical level spacing is never considered
i could live without ramping if i had a 1 lumen low, going to 3, 10, 30, 100, 300, etc
the FW3A has stepped mode, that would be fine if that was all
but i like the ramp mode better, still, i have tried switching back and forth and never seem to stay stepped for long
wle
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
It never gets easy, you just go faster. -Greg Lemond.
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
i never worry about run time with any 18650
i do, with anything else
including 18350
wle
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
It never gets easy, you just go faster. -Greg Lemond.
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
because we set a special function with moonlight mode, we offer some different moonlight levels for choosing.
Mail:sales@mankerlight.com
Web: www.mankerlight.com
Welcome to join Mankerlight Group in Facebook.
yes, the NW is 4000k night CRI
Mail:sales@mankerlight.com
Web: www.mankerlight.com
Welcome to join Mankerlight Group in Facebook.
right – i remember that from the U11 interface, the settable moonlight
none of them were right:)
just give me 6 or 8 optically-evenly spaced levels
so simple
wle
"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
Daniel Behrman, "The Man Who Loved Bicycles".
It never gets easy, you just go faster. -Greg Lemond.
,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸,ø¤º°`°º¤ø¸
Mankerlight, please share some photos and video if possible. And maybe a group buy or BLF coupon.
Since I no longer shop with Banggood because they are smartasses, maybe I will buy one of your flashlights.
Manker E14 III cool-white is 4x LH351D 6500k CRI70?
How about a CRI80 (eg. 5300-5700k), to differentiate it from the neutral-white 4000k CRI90.
Output measured at 2s with Texas Ace Lumen Tube calibrated with Maukka lights. Light parameters measured with Sekonic C-800-U
I also have a MC13vn with W2.1 with boosted driver on order and will measure it once I receive it. The MC13 is actually a good bit larger than I thought as I was imagining something slightly bigger than a GT Mini. The optic appears identical to the one used in the Acebeam E10 and L17. Though for some reason the hotspot seems just a tiny bit smaller than in the E10 and hotspot is more uniform. Maybe its just the focus is a bit different between the two. The MC13 measures 630 lumens on turbo while E10 measures 562 lumens. I'm not sure how much of it is due to the MC13 using the CULNM1.tg vs E10 using CSLNM1.tg or whether it is just the driver pushing more output in the MC13. Build quality is very high on both the MC13 and E4 III.
With the E4III, the tint (positive DUV) is unfortunately too green for my taste, which is typical for all the LH351D 4000K 90CRI I've seen. I will see what I can do with some minus green filters and maybe swap in some UCL lens if I can find compatible diameter lens. Also I feel that with 18650, it should be able to output much higher but the potential is limited by high resistance due to springs barely pushing on the battery contacts. I guess it was designed to accommodate long cells with built-in USB-C charge.
The included Manker 18350 and 18650 cells measure 1,180mah and 3,063mah. The 1,180mah is higher than 7 out of 8 of the legendary Aspire 18350 and older batch of Vapcell 18350; both of which rewrapped the older, better batch of YDL cells. The YDL cells in the last two years went down hill a bit and measure under 1,100mah. Not sure if I won the cell lottery or if Manker got a really good or improved YDL cell. The 18650 is probably a Samsung 30Q.
I really like the new Manker UI!
Can this be confirmed? I don’t know why they’d sell a light with an LED that they felt the need to include a minus green filter. Why not just use a good LED like the SST-20s they are using in their E02 II?
Because not everyone are tint snobs like us. Also LH351D is much brighter and more efficient than the SST-20. Even with the minus green Lee Filter to achieve the same tint as the SST-20, the LH351D should still be brighter and more efficient.
Wouldn’t these filters also affect the CRI?
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