Update: Found a Sealody 980e on Ebay
Im about to order a Bakon 950d from China but I’d like to see what you might have for me.
I’ve had the Hakko FX888D for over five years, and use it a couple times a week. I’m very pleased with it. I convinced a friend to buy one and he’s happy too.
A couple months ago I needed another soldering station and decided to try the Yihua 939D+. I think it’s a clone of another Hakko model. I’m impressed so far, especially for 1/3 the current price of the FX888D.
I actually prefer the rotary temperature control of the Yihua over the pushbutton control on the Hakko. The Hakko allows for some preset temperatures, but it’s so easy to spin the knob to adjust the Yihua.
The Hakko’s iron is nicer, and I’m a sucker for supple silicone cables, but the Yihua’s iron is just fine.
There are a couple different bundles for the 939D+ on Amazon. Here’s one to get you started.
Well I’ve been using a Chinese Quicko with T12 tips for almost 2 years. It runs off laptop power supplies or any 12-24v power brick delivering 3-5A. Max power is 70W. It’s tiny, about 5x3” and has a detachable handpiece. It’s temperature regulated witj infinite temp control and I really like it. Goes from 150C to 480C in about 10 seconds and has fast recovery when doing mcpcbs or solid brass/copper parts with a big tip on a HP 19.5v 4.7A power brick. Has sleep function, boost, etc. For $25 it’s one of the better investments I’ve made! I got the one with the OLED display from Aliexpress.
It has good reviews, I would say you made right choice, look for places where you can get discount codes.
Hmm… two very good recommendations.
I’m not sure if the Sealody is a rebrand or another clone, though.
I say probably a rebrand as there are several versions of it, like the Hakko clones station. There are clones of the Quicko too like KSGER and others, and different versions as well. Quality varies between them though. Nobody’s clones Wellers stations though that take the 900 series slip on tips.
Timely thread. I just took the plunge and ordered a reflow station: (link AliExpress)
Is there a T12 type of soldering pen to be found that I could replace the provided “cheap” one?
Hi Sid
many handles are avalaible, mostly Hakko clones but you have to wire it up the same as your stations output so it will work.measure your 5pin female gx connector to get the same so to fit.
t12 soldering irons usually has a gx12 5pin connectors and your stations looks like a gx16-20
bottom is homemade
Other than the size of the connector, the elements’ voltage would be the same - 24 V? So this model would be adaptable (link A.E.).
What is a preferred tip for SMD? “I” seems a bit small but I could work with.
All new to me. My existing Hakko 925 doesn’t cut it. Heat lag, and poor tip solder retaining (bead comes up the tip - but I ‘fixed’ that).
Also, now re-building an older style* magnifying lamp (“Luxo” style).
- Uses a traditional, albeit discontinued, circular fluorescent tube.
Upgrading my set-up.
Have the same handle also
its based on the following, wiring and colours are not the same on many handles and models.
If Sid is thinking of getting a t12 handle and tips he probably has to open the handle the unit comes with and find which wire goes where and wire accordingly,
trust me I went through the same process to finally get mine to work.
I have no problems with the pin-outs.
My questions were: the heater of the T12 24 volts? Is the controller compatible with the new T12?
I presume it is if you did the mod.
And lastly, is the .35mm x 11mm tip most common for SMD?
i’d say yes your good to go according to the specs of your handle Description
Specification:
Voltage: DC 24 V
Power Consumption: 60 W
Connector: 5 pin
from here
https://www.joom.com/en/products/5c429cdd8b45130101a773f8
as for tips that personal preference.
Thanks. Will look into changing the iron.
@ nmbusa
That T12 soldering iron (the blue one) is for a Hakko DIY. My unit being a 8786 controller, I found this kit: (Link AE )
Included components:
The electronics if I understand correctly:
1- The switch (be it ball type or mercury) between pins 1 & 2; actually don’t need such, never lay the iron on the desk.
2- A NTC between pins 3 or 4 & 5. Will have to look at backside of PCB. Don’t know if buil-in sensor requires a secondary thermal regulator.
3- Capacitor somewhere? I would presume across the switch, cut spike in disconnect.
Hi Sid
As I recall and a quick check of my notes both handles like the above I made only had the ball switch to put to sleep after a set time on stand.
the 3rd I have like below had the components you show but only ball switch and ntc was used.
about what goes where I cant tell you that its a trial and error thing as you have to check the stations handle wiring and wire accordinly
as components shown in these kits are mainly for the hakko clone controllers eg quicko, ksger oled stc
got here
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32961743843.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dCHZSz3
got some info from here
So your controller uses a ball switch between pins 4 & 5 (which connect to the temperature sensor)* and has a timed standby. Makes sense. This kit seems to offer more components for different controllers but, as with Chinese stores, the specifics are not given.
It will have to try by trial I suppose.
*Edit: The temp sensor is referred to as a thermocouple in that 2nd link. Somewhere in AE, I saw this was built-in the T12 element.
ball switch and mercury do the same thing just ball had its position in handle 1.
the German link is referring to the t12 tips thermocouple which is built in.
as I said follow the german pics but after you check wiring in stations handle which has the old style heating element
https://www.davidpilling.com/wiki/index.php/SolderT12
both my station are 5 pin but the quicko on top was actually 4 pin,I changed it to 5 so I can have all 3 handles interchangleable.
most handles are 4 pin anyway the extra is for a ground wire
Hey, thanks for David Pilling’s link.
So it corrects my understanding of the innards. As for the ball/mercury switch, I may just jump leave open the 1 & 2 points. My understanding is the iron goes to sleep in a down pointed orientation, gets awaken when the iron is pulled up and after a set time re-enters sleep. A vibration switch would be better suited.
Interestingly they had a cap in line with the ground, thought it would be used to reduce any spike from the switch, especially if there are some 2.5 amps going through.
I’ll have the given Hakko style iron to re-trace the pinouts. Also, a low impedance Multi-Meter would also give me the element versus the thermocouple.
Edit: re-looked at the German link to the T12s innards and corrected the switch connection.
2nd edit: Put this endeavour on hold, doubt that I could make a 2 channel (heater + thermocouple) station work with a series configuration T12. When I get my workstation, I’ll look into it (literally)…
I’m looking for an iron made of ceramic instead of plastic, as I melted my last one. Left it on in the holder, came back in ten or twenty minutes and found it had melted itself.