I snagged what must have been one of the last ones on Amazon. Looks like an 18650 version of the N7. Looks like 6 mode UI and says it pushes 1000 lumens at the highest output. We shall see.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B08HRRSQNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cDJOFbTZD4VZ3
I don't have a setup for measuring output. I'm planning to compare it to a few lights I have that output around 100 lumens.
Just snagged one of these for $13.00 (limit 1 it seems). I like the N7, so I am excited to try it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08HRRSQNC?th=1
UI is slightly different. Long press on/off. Definitely the same LED. Output is pretty darn good and the head swivels silky smooth. I like the N9 a whole lot.
Yeah, some time ago Nicron decided that the N7 (and I guess N9 by extension) should be updated to require a long press instead of a short click.
It’s not bad if you get used to it, but it put me off buying any more of them.
Just got one of these. Not sure what I was expecting, the machining and anodization looks reasonable for the price point but thin/weak compared to more expensive lights.
I wish it had square tailcap threads, really don’t like small v-cut threads in aluminum, even if anodized. I am being picky at this price point, but why can’t manufacturers learn this? It does not cost more to cut threads square, except maybe 1mm diameter of addt’l aluminum needed and aluminum is not a precious/expensive metal.
Strange heat dissipation on this, I feel heat out the front more than around the head. Poor heatsinking?
I do not mind the long press to turn it on. There is a sticker on it that reads 2 seconds, but it’s more like 0.75 seconds press needed, and to turn it off. If anything it is a bit reassuring that this means the switch isn’t handling the current, is just logically toggling power on and off. I mean at this price point, historically I’ve found switches to be one of the lifespan problems if they handle the driving current.
I wonder about something and maybe someone who has torn down an N7 can help here (assuming they are implemented the same), how is the swivel head electrically connected to the body tube? Is it a wire that’s got to flex every time you turn the head, or something like an automobile steering wheel clockspring and if so, is that with aluminum contacts (requiring it to not oxidize to conduct well) or some other contact material?
I’m wondering if the desirable swivel head feature is also something that is going to determine its lifespan due to degraded electrical contacts.
My premature assessment, is that since the beam pattern is even, no ugly colors or rings at all, it’s well worth the $16 current price on Amazon.
Has anyone done a tear-down and know the best way to get the driver out of these?
Just noticed something about my N9. It makes a very faint humming noise, but that gets much louder when attached to metal with the tailcap magnet. It is not the orientation of the light, I can hold it horizontal then put a pair of scissors on the back and hear the humming getting much louder.
I almost didn’t believe it, because I can’t plausibly explain this. I could understand if the magnet was close to the driver and the field was causing a disturbance but this far away and with the field reduced by the metal attached to it?
Anyway I’m wondering if there is a non-destructive method to get the driver out, examine and potentially pot the inductor, assuming it is wire wound, or possibly it has developed a solder joint crack, though it does not affect the light output or mode functions.