I’m about to attempt my first S2+ triple build. I want to use an H17Fx, a Copper spacer from Mtn, Noctigon 20mm DTP MCPCB, and three *219b sw45k”.
I will primarily be using it in 18350 format with Keeppower 1200mAh batteries (they appear to have 10A max continuous with 15A max pulse output), and occasionally with NCR18650GA 3500mAh batteries.
Do I need to replace the 22AWG wires with 20AWG? Or is that a bad idea? Is there actually an advantage to 20AWG over 22AWG in a single emitter build, btw (i.e. Convoy C8+ with FET+1 driver and XPL-HI emitter)?
And also, am I planning to use the correct batteries with these emitters and this level of heat sinking? And should I solder the spacer to the pill, or will the thermal paste be enough?
Seems a nice setup
I’ll just give my 2 cents saying that every triple I did so far I soldered the space to the pill, for better installation and heat dissipation
As for the wires, I am not sure of how sensible the Nichias will be with 20AWG. But, as you’ll use those batteries (not higher drain batteries such as the 30Q or the VTC5/6) I’d say they’ll be OK, specially on that MCPCB and with good heatsinking.
If using high drain cells, then I don’t know what to reply :zipper_mouth_face:
Every build I’ve done so far has had your helpful fingerprints on it! This one is no different.
I can’t make sense of the ohm resistance differences on 20AWG vs 22AWG, generally. RMM has told me the difference is negligible. So perhaps I should leave it at that.
I’ve bricked two MTN-17DDM drivers trying to replace the wires with 20AWG, only to leave cold joints, have them come apart, and have the light stuck on high only. I have not been able to fix either one and destroyed both in the days-long process of searching and removing excess solder.
Well, I’m not sure if I’m a good helped or not, but I try to do my best (even if not completely accurate all the time ) !
Hum, if Richard said that, then he’ll now best, and if you struggled to change the wires in the other drivers, better to leave it that way! ´
Also, in case you decide to use high-drain cells, the thinner wires (along with the rest of the setting) will surely prevent the leds from going nuts (not sure if they would to that if thicker ones were used, though! )
Too bad you couldn’t fix those drivers again :zipper_mouth_face: Sometimes is delicate to have the wires changed, I’ve told you I’ve damaged some trying the same thing!
Sometimes is better to ask the maker to install the wires in a different way, specially if they are more expensive.
BTW, one or 2 suggestions in case you wanna try it. If you want something like and after glow, you can try the GITD gaskets or some GITD tape to put around the TIR.
Seeing that you’ll use Nichia, to avoid any green stuff, I’d suggest using orange GITD tape or orange GITD gasket.
These have green GITD tape (which sometimes shifts the beam tint):
Soooo I just used some tacky flux for the first time since starting to solder…
I’m not even sure how I accomplished anything without it. It’s insane how much easier it is! I can use lower temperatures and the solder doesn’t flow all over the place. Wow.
So now I’ve seen the dragon driver, and an example of someone who has built a (2) 219b/(1) W1 S2+ triple.
I’d like to do this instead!
I have a Mtn 20mm triple XP board that has a second ground and space for aux LEDs. Could I make this MCPCB work for a built like this that has the dragon driver controlling the W1 separately? Or will I need a different MCPCB to accomplish this?
I am not familiarized with this driver, but I do know one thing, is that the 219b is 3535 footprint and the Osram W1 is 3030, so, the person that did the mod must have done some trick in the MCPCB.
Also the “max” that W1 goes is 4.5-5A, so if the driver is FET (not sure, IDK), it must be done carefully .
Could it be that the person who did that is a member here and may give you some help?
Here’s to hoping they’ll chime in! I don’t know their username on BLF.
It seems the dragon driver is normally FET-driving the “main” LEDs and giving a regulated output on the aux channels, seemingly under 2A. Which is why this would be perfect for a W1 on the aux channels.
I’m just wondering how to go about wiring this up to the MCPCB, whether you need resistors, whether they need to be in series etc.
I’m backing off of my original plan, and kind of regretting not just going the E2L route. But now I have all the materials…
I’d kind of rather have this triple be something “special” and strange as I probably won’t be carrying it around as an EDC due to its size.
Yes, that makes sense, too. I wonder if I can just use a proper battery to not destroy them with too many amps.
The driver is here and it seems to show that the primary FET channel isn’t putting out max amps at all times. It has many lower modes as well.
I’m wondering if I set a very low thermal calibration and hardly ever run the 219bs on 100%, with a DTP MCPCB, and a proper battery, whether it will work.
Someone else did this build, too. Check it out here
) !
