Mateminco MT01 (EA01) tear down, SST-40 5000K option

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Tom E
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Mateminco MT01 (EA01) tear down, SST-40 5000K option

With the Astrolux EA01 out of stock, and the Mateminco MT01 offered at an excellent price on their Ali Store here ($36 for SST-40), I decided to order the MT01, exact same light as the Astrolux EA01. It arrived the other day, way ahead of the EA01 XHP50.2 I ordered earlier from BG. I was intrigued to see how the TIR style optic performed with these not-quite-made-for-throw LED's. But first, let's see what it's made of.

Here we can see the battery adapter - 26650 (no adapter), 21700 (just long tube), and 18650 (both tubes). With the o-ring , it's a nice snug fit.

Here's the included pieces and sample of batteries that can be used:

There is a glass lens, and appear to be untreated - can't notice any color reflection. The glass and TIR optic is in pristine condition:

 

This is showing the 3 holes for the optic stems/legs  in the 20 mm stock MCPCB. Also notice the silly putty/clay type substance covering the switch hole and switch wires. Guessing it's either to maskthe switch LED light from coming through, or to hold the wires in their place, or both. There appears to be enough thermal grease used, as can be seen oozing out into the 3 optic leg holes. At this point, I didn't remove the MCPCB yet:

Wish I had a "Mateminco" pogo pin flash adapter. Have not seen one that fits these lights yet on BLF. This driver is an exact match to the FT02S driver. Also, I like they used a driver retaining, also exactly the same as the FT02S:

Classic FET+1 driver with the ATTiny85, SIR800DP FET (probably a good fake):

Short thick LED wires to keep the amps up:

The labeling is actually that blurry - it's not the photo. Can't make out anything. Of the 4 LED's, 2 are blue (controlled by the Anduril), while the other 2 are either just RED or RED and GREEN possibly, controlled by the USB charging circuit (did not check USB charging):

The battery tube and end cap of the FT02S are a 100% match with the MT01/EA01, while the MF01 Mini is a close match, so LEGO's pretty well:

 

 Measurements:

Notes:

  • the light is all stock, using a 40T fully charged cell at 4.19V, 9.15 amps measured on a clamp meter, tailcap off
  • lumens are calibrated numbers, taken in a DIY PVC light box, throw #'s are taken on a Extech LT45 meter at 5 meters
  • the light was temperature calibrated and max temp adjusted high to run 30 secs without temp regulation droppage

 

Edited by: Tom E on 02/16/2021 - 21:31
pennzy
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Thanks Tom. Your tear downs are a great asset here. How’d you like the beam?

borg
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Very nice!
Thanks for the tear down.

Is it possible to swap the sst40 with osram KW CULPM1.TG and use the original driver?

It would be interesting to see the throw numbers and the beam pattern with the osram LED.

Artiet59
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Tom, thank you! I’ve been waiting a while for them to get you your light! Lol Jk.

Thank you so much for the tear down, I still haven’t taken mine apart yet? But will be this weekend. I’m thinking about dropping the CULPM1 I have on 20mm mcpcb in here just to see what happens. I have it in an astrolux c8 right now and it’s pretty impressive considering I’ve changed nothing else about the $18 C8.

Tom E
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The tricky part is the 3 holes in the MCPCB for the optics. To do it right, you'd have to drill the holes precisely enough to fit well and keep the LED centered.

So to change to a 3535 MCPCB, or 4040 MCPCB for the Boost HX, those drilled holes are necessary. If you don't drill, then you could sand/file down the optic legs and hope you get it centered well, but then there's no going back.

Artiet59
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So I do some woodworking, and have experience making jigs, etc to make life easier. My thought on drilling the holes precisely (let me know what you think) – take out the stock mcpcb and use a dab of superglue (I have good ones) to attach my new mcpcb to the original mcpcb , back to back (or bare copper to copper. Then with them securely attached, use a drill Bit in the drill press the same exact size as the holes on the original mcpcb, ie the same size as the legs, to go through the existing holes to the new mcpcb with no holes. As long as I glue them up in the exact right orientation I’m assuming all will be well. Then pop them apart with some heat or a flat head, and sand the bare copper smooth to remove the super glue residue. Thoughts? I feel it would work .

darosk
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Wow, very cool! Love seeing these tear-downs.

My Lights (Updated: Feb 5, 2021)

everydaysurvivalgear
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Awesome work as always mate.

Kos70
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“Также обратите внимание на глупое вещество типа замазки / глины, закрывающее отверстие переключателя и провода переключателя. Предполагается, что это либо для того, чтобы замаскировать светодиодный свет переключателя, либо удерживать провода на их месте, либо и то, и другое. “

Более того, это можно считать эксклюзивной деталью каждой лампы, защищенной от подделки личным отпечатком пальца мастера … Big Smile
Tom E
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Kos70 wrote:
_"Также обратите внимание на глупое вещество типа замазки / глины, закрывающее отверстие переключателя и провода переключателя. Предполагается, что это либо для того, чтобы замаскировать светодиодный свет переключателя, либо удерживать провода на их месте, либо и то, и другое. "_ Более того, это можно считать эксклюзивной деталью каждой лампы, защищенной от подделки личным отпечатком пальца мастера ... :D

I think this is good... Thanx smile

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Wow, so the TIR is reflector, optic, and lens all in one?

Tom E
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Artiet59 wrote:
So I do some woodworking, and have experience making jigs, etc to make life easier. My thought on drilling the holes precisely (let me know what you think) - take out the stock mcpcb and use a dab of superglue (I have good ones) to attach my new mcpcb to the original mcpcb , back to back (or bare copper to copper. Then with them securely attached, use a drill Bit in the drill press the same exact size as the holes on the original mcpcb, ie the same size as the legs, to go through the existing holes to the new mcpcb with no holes. As long as I glue them up in the exact right orientation I'm assuming all will be well. Then pop them apart with some heat or a flat head, and sand the bare copper smooth to remove the super glue residue. Thoughts? I feel it would work .

All makes sense to align the holes, but you will probably be drilling through a LED+ or LED- trace in at least one, maybe all (the stock MCPCB is designed for the holes, so the traces go around them). As long as you don't break the trace, should be fine, but it's possible you could ground out a trace to the ground of the MCPCB at the edge of a drilled hole. Now I have a lot of experience with these things because in quite a few mods, I've had to dremel or file a MCPCB down into the traces. I "think" I encountered this grounding problem and to fix it, I had to file or dremel the edge at about 45 degress so the trace is backed off from the edge. There's only a very thin layer separating the trace from the ground of the MCPCB.

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zoulas wrote:
Wow, so the TIR is reflector, optic, and lens all in one?

Yes, that's all true, just like triple or quad optics, a single LED optic is the same idea. Other lights like the FireFlies E01 uses a similar optic, but may be a different design type.

However this light has a glass lens separate as shown, but doesn't look AR treated. Of course the glass lens is not necessary for the optics, actually it only reduces output probably just a couple percent, but in general it's considered a good design to use one because the glass protects the plastic of the TIR optics from getting scratched.

Artiet59
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Tom E wrote:

Artiet59 wrote:
So I do some woodworking, and have experience making jigs, etc to make life easier. My thought on drilling the holes precisely (let me know what you think) – take out the stock mcpcb and use a dab of superglue (I have good ones) to attach my new mcpcb to the original mcpcb , back to back (or bare copper to copper. Then with them securely attached, use a drill Bit in the drill press the same exact size as the holes on the original mcpcb, ie the same size as the legs, to go through the existing holes to the new mcpcb with no holes. As long as I glue them up in the exact right orientation I’m assuming all will be well. Then pop them apart with some heat or a flat head, and sand the bare copper smooth to remove the super glue residue. Thoughts? I feel it would work .

All makes sense to align the holes, but you will probably be drilling through a LED+ or LED- trace in at least one, maybe all (the stock MCPCB is designed for the holes, so the traces go around them). As long as you don’t break the trace, should be fine, but it’s possible you could ground out a trace to the ground of the MCPCB at the edge of a drilled hole. Now I have a lot of experience with these things because in quite a few mods, I’ve had to dremel or file a MCPCB down into the traces. I “think” I encountered this grounding problem and to fix it, I had to file or dremel the edge at about 45 degress so the trace is backed off from the edge. There’s only a very thin layer separating the trace from the ground of the MCPCB.


Ok, thank you for this info. I didn’t even think of the traces on the mcpcb.. mostly, because I don’t even really know what the traces are.. are they like slight grooves in the mcpcb under the sticker? Or are they wire? Sorry for the stupid question, I have often wondered how those pathways work on the mcpcb. Also- when you say you Dremel or file the edges at a 45, do you mean the holes for the tir legs? Or are you referring to when you need to redefine the traces’ pathway you file that at a 45 degree angle ?(I don’t know if redefining the traces’ pathway is a thing, or that you even implied that. Sorry I’m trying to keep up. I thought this was simpler lol).
Tom E
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Wish I knew all the tech jargon off the top of my head... 

The traces can be seen - look at the MCPCB carefully, usually at an angle you will see them - usually bumped up, connecting the solder pads to the LED + and -. I got some pics that show them well. Some MCPCB's have thin lines, some are a fat area fill type. It's copper fill, covered over, but under that copper is a very thin insulating non-conductive layer, then the copper base is the metal core (MCPCB = Metal Core Printed Circuit Board). If you have an old MCPCB around, you should try sanding them down and you will see the layers exposed as you sand more and more off.

 

Artiet59 wrote:
Also- when you say you Dremel or file the edges at a 45, do you mean the holes for the tir legs? Or are you referring to when you need to redefine the traces' pathway you file that at a 45 degree angle ?(I don't know if redefining the traces' pathway is a thing, or that you even implied that. Sorry I'm trying to keep up. I thought this was simpler lol).

Yes - the holes you drill for the legs. The edges of the holes should be filed/sanded (angled, ~45 degs) only if you have a ground short. Hopefully the holes won't completely cut off a trace -- I assume they won't, so no need to redefine the pathway.

 

Artiet59
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Ok, wow that is useful info, thanks! I defitnely have a couple old beat up mcpcbs I am going to sand and check out. And look for these traces. Will help me better understand what I’m dealing with. Also, it will help me map out how I am going to drill these holes. Because I assume when I have a mcpcb (like many of my convoy mcpcbs I order) that has multiple + and – pads that they all have their own traces. I also assume (a lot of assuming, I know) that as long as I don’t drill through the traces that lead to the pads I’m soldering my leads to, it won’t creat a potential short? Or does breaking the trace on any of the multiple + or – pads pathways interfere with all of the pads? I hope that question makes sense..

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Google mcpcb images for some good pictures.

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Putty… that’s a new one on me. Never seen that used in a flashlight before.

Kinda reminds me of the Mateminco MT07 (Astrolux MF01 Mini) with a single LED and big optic.

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Great Job once again Tom. Thanks.

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Nice review Tom… with 1700-2000 OTF, FET-DD, healthy 40T, spring-less B+ contact it’s driving the SST40 pretty hard correct?

How robust is the SST40 in this scenario? Does the driver aggressively step down the current at some point?
Is there any PWM in low modes?

thanks!!

Kos70
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I think so. Therefore, to the detriment of my perfectionism, I bought a medium-current element for this flashlight …

Tom E
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kramer5150 wrote:
Nice review Tom... with 1700-2000 OTF, FET-DD, healthy 40T, spring-less B+ contact it's driving the SST40 pretty hard correct? How robust is the SST40 in this scenario? Does the driver aggressively step down the current at some point? Is there any PWM in low modes? thanks!!

Oh sorry, didn't list the amps. OP updated with measured amps.

On a clamp meter with tailcap removed, measured 9.15 amps. 9 to 9.5 is about the max of an SST-40. Most of my single LED SST-40's are doing in this range on a topped off good cell and haven't had problems. I measured lumens and throw with the tailcap on, so judging by the stock springs (not so good, though doubled up), I'm sure it dropped amps somewhat, maybe down to 8.5 - 8.9 amps or so. I won't hesitate to pull the inner spring and add a 20 AWG bypass.

For the stepdown, depends on what you configure but we are not talking insane amps here, least for today's standards Facepalm . I got smaller triple XHP50.2 lights that pull 30 amps. It's Anduril, so you get the standard Anduril temp regulation. Also the SST-40 is way cooler than the XHP50.2 version.

For PWM, it's Anduril, so PWM's are high frequency through the range (think ~15K), but not sure what TK does at very low, like moon - might be lower PWM, not sure.

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gchart wrote:
Putty... that's a new one on me. Never seen that used in a flashlight before. Kinda reminds me of the Mateminco MT07 (Astrolux MF01 Mini) with a single LED and big optic.

It's weird for sure. Found the same stuff in the EA01, just received.

I did some LEGOing with the MF01 Mini in the OP pics. Another single LED TIR light is the FireFlies E01 - I got one, but don't think I ever opened it.

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Is it possible they use it as a sort of firewall to protect the electronics from the heat?

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My EA01 50.2 came today. First impression was how small it is. Calibrated the temperature and can’t wait for dark tonight to give it a whirl. Having reset capability is reassuring in case I’m ever somewhere without the directions and I need light. One question, what does a factory reset do to the temperature calibration?

Tom E
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pennzy wrote:
My EA01 50.2 came today. First impression was how small it is. Calibrated the temperature and can't wait for dark tonight to give it a whirl. Having reset capability is reassuring in case I'm ever somewhere without the directions and I need light. One question, what does a factory reset do to the temperature calibration?

Pretty sure it gets reset - think al the settings are reset.

 

zoulas wrote:
Is it possible they use it as a sort of firewall to protect the electronics from the heat?

You mean the electronics of the switch PCB? Maybe? I originally thought it was to keep all the wires from the switch from interfering with the optics, but I'm guessing.

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So if it comes uncalibrated it will reset to uncalibrated?
Took mine for a walk tonight and am very pleased with the beam and CCT. The default max temp is supposed to be set to 45 but it felt hotter to me. Had to set it to 35 to keep it comfortable at top ramp. Thinking about dropping top ramp setting but first I want to see how the lower thermal max setting works out. I don’t know what is better, drop max temp or drop max ramp lumens to keep it at a sustainable level? Fun to play with. As I said before, very small. Not a lot of mass to dissipate the heat. Good throw without a discernable hot stop which is what I was after. Chewed through a 5500 mah 26650 pretty fast though.

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What kind of tool do you use for the ring around the switch? I don’t want to scratch it. Thanks in advance!

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Tartarus wrote:
What kind of tool do you use for the ring around the switch? I don't want to scratch it. Thanks in advance!

The ring is SS so hard to scratch. But I do use a pair of needlenose that are curved on the outside so usually fit the ring notches pretty well (can't find a pic of mine). For the BLF Q8's I actually made a tool out of plexiglass material - it's a perfect fit and no scratching.

Go slow and careful though - think the SS ones can still scratch if mis-handled.

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Do you think other optics are available that may give a nicer beam?

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pennzy wrote:
Do you think other optics are available that may give a nicer beam?

My MT01 is an SST-40 so the beam looks great. For the XHP50.2, I dunno. Last night I compared the beams of just about all my XHP50.2 3V lights and they are all ugly to me, maybe some slightly worse than others.

  • EA01 (tir) 5700K: rings of tint, purple dot in the center of the hot spot
  • EC01: (OP) 5700K: rings of tint but more blended together
  • FT03 (SMO) 5700K: rings of tint, yellow dot in the center of the hot spot
  • SP33v3: rings of tint, large yellow dot in the center of the hot spot
  • modded C818 (SMO, UCLp lens): rings of tint, purple dot in the center of the hot spot
  • EC03 (triple SMO 5700-6000K): rings of tint
  • FT02S (quad SMO): rings of tint

I always order a 5700K tint when available - not sure of all of them. Maybe it's the more neutral tint? Saw some think the FT03 XHP50.2 looks good, but I never saw a good beam from a XHP50.2 3V light. It's not a deal breaker for me, but it's certainly noticeable indoors or outdoors. I was planning on modding a lot more lights with the XHP50.2 3V but mostly been preferring the SST-40 5000K because of the beam.

 

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