As the title says, I use the YR1035+ to quickly measure the Impedance of cells I buy to know if they are genuine, fake, genuine but old etc
Is this enough? Or is a capacity test required aswell? I have heard that capacity can be faked too so it seems to me that this little quick test is all one needs. What about measuring DC resistance? I really couldn’t be bothered i just want to keep things as simple as possible.
Usually internal resistance is a pretty clear indication of authenticity, but it doesn’t give the whole picture. Capacity testing and discharging capabilities are very good metrics also. A large variation in weight can be a clue, as can the cells physical characteristics. Fakes are getting really good these days so more and more we need to go inside since outward appearance is becoming less of a reliable identifier.
Battery manufacturers have spec sheets on their batteries where they list exact measurements,etc. Generally speaking, if you buy from a reliable source, you don’t have to worry.
Here in USA we are lucky to have many reliable sources of batteries. In your country and many others that may not be the case.
What discharging capability should be looked for?
I recently got a Vapcell S4+ charger and have been weeding out old batteries and verifying the fakes. That charger makes what used to be a chore kind of fun and interesting.
This country is at times flooded with fakes from China and it is almost impossible to buy a genuine battery. The sellers themselves don’t know if the batteries they sell are fake or original. I don’t buy any popular batteries as they are likely to be fakes. HG2’s or “chocos” as they call them here are a good example of that. Very recently there seem to be big quantities of fake Molicels. Thank God for Vapcell ,they are still safe (but expensive) here.
Well, since we’re from the same country, I understand exactly what you mean… 
Most local online sellers (or local vape shops that sell li-ion batteries, or other online stores that ship to our country), based on my inquiries with them, don’t appear to try to understand the different types of batteries. Some will just mention “capacity”, as long as they are “roughly” the correct capacity, they will say it’s the correct battery — they don’t seem to understand “high-drain” type versus “not-so-high-drain” type (eg. non-genuine ones may have similar tested capacity, but have higher IR and when used on the more higher-powered flashlights, will result in less bright “Turbo” mode)…
I’ve tried ordering some Molicell P26A from some local online store — their first batches were genuine, but their subsequent batches are not. I think due to some negative feedbacks on their items, they have lowered the price a bit, and then modified the description to indicate “1:1” (meaning, it’s a 1-is-to-1 copy of the genuine one and NOT-the-genuine one), and then continue selling those non-genuine P26A.
I’ve tested the genuine & non-genuine P26A — the non-genuine has less capacity (around 2100-2200mAh vs around 2600mAh for the genuine one), but I doubt many buyers can do capacity testing. The non-genuine P26A looks similar, but there are subtle differences (I’ve taken some pictures of the difference but haven’t had time to write up a post about them).
The same goes with the very popular “HG2” or “LG Choco” that our local stores call them. These vary in capacity from 1600mAh to 3200mAh, based on my capacity test of these ones (I think I’ve tested ordering the “HG2” from more than 10 different stores, before finally finding one that I think, is the real HG2 (I think I know that it’s the genuine one). The inexpensive “HG2” are generally low-capacity ones (1600-2100mAh), but the average ones typically can have nearly correct capacity (2800-3200mAh) — I know some online feedbacks of those online stores will have people indicate “correct tested capacity” — but based on my test, these “HG2” are still not the genuine “HG2” because the IR is different.
I’ve since gotten the YR1030 (and also now have YR1035) resistance tester for checking AC impedance. I’ve jotted down tables of batteries (capacity test, weight, AC IR as reported by the YR1030 meter [my YR1035 is still new, and my old battery test results were all measured using the YR1030], DC IR as reported by my SkyRC MC3000).
Usually AC IR + weight is a good quick check (the bigger brand like Sony/Samsung/LG/Molicell/Sanyo-Panasonic batteries) have tight tolerance on weight, in my battery notes for 18650 batteries, the difference between the lightest and heaviest of a certain model, do not differ by 1.0 gram (I use a digital weighing scale that has a 0.01 gram resolution (although I don’t think it’s accurate to 0.01gram) I think it would be precise enough for 0.1gram).
I combine AC IR measurement (note: applies only while battery is new, since older batteries usually increase in AC IR values) + weight (measured to 0.1gram resolution) + capacity test (+ visual inspection) to check if a battery is likely the genuine one. I understand it’s still possible I may not have a genuine one if they pass the above measurements, but then it would likely have been a very good clone if it does… (I recall there are a few posts of AC IR values of some 18650/21700 batteries here in BLF, which I use to compare)…
Battery sellers in this country don’t know and don’t care. I need a few batteries and had a look at what was available yesterday. Out of a couple dozen I didn’t see 1 that didn’t a “red flag” of some sort. All sellers have the fake (presumably) Molicels right now. If I look at a sellers other items and they are also selling glow in the dark spider keyrings, photo cards of Kpop idols, and other Chinese junk it doesn’t make me too confident of getting a original battery. The same of a hundred manic reviews from what seem to be 18 yo vapers (no offence meant to vapers or 18 year olds). Another poster above noted that not every country has reliable suppliers and that’s the case here. The chances of getting a genuine battery here are about the same as getting a fake in most first world countries.
I’ve been checking capacity and comparing to known good batteries with a lux meter and lately looking at IR with the S4+ charger. The charger doesn’t seem to be very accurate (slot 3 especially is wildly inaccurate and inconsistent), so the resistance meter is a good idea, also the scale. I put them in my Banggood cart last night. A battery database would be good but we have so few choices here that I probably just need to start my own for the batteries I can buy.
As you know very few sellers will ship batteries here. I tried the Vapcell store a while back and they did ship to Manila, the port of entry, 2 months ago and since then the package has been sitting there without moving. I have no idea when I’ll get them. the already poor postal logistics here have completely broken down. Yes I know I’m whining, please excuse me.
Back before I learned it was useless, I asked a seller who was swearing on his mothers virtue that his batteries were genuine how he knew. “Well…I just know!” he said. I asked if he had tested them and he looked confused before regaining his composure and stating indignantly “I don’t need to test them because I already know they’re legit, my china supplier told me!”. That’s what we have to deal with here.
not enough
Thanks vapcell Dennis, If local shipping problems clear up I’ll order Vapcells. Vapcell is the only major brand that I haven’t seen fakes with. Right now I’m forced to buy locally.
Thank you very much for your support to vapcell
Asked the colleagues of Aliexpress, said that it can be delivered to the Philippines, thank you