Hello all. I am taking possession of Astrolux FT02 XHP70.2 host (driver is dead), and Mateminco no longer makes them so can’t replace driver straight from them. I think it is 25 or 26mm, 12v boost driver with e-switch. Ultimately the hope is to put the GT-FC40 12v LED in it. Can anyone point me toward a suitable driver?
Bump…. I guess there is a reason I also can’t find one like this either…,
Single cell, 12 volt boost around 2 to 2.5 amp output, e-switch
Didn’t Simon recently release a L6/L7 with GTFC led? Might fit
Edit, that ofcourse is not a single cell driver
He did. It is for 2 cells in series, not a single. Driver dia not important to me but the input voltage needs to be suitable for a single cell or cells in parallel, not series. And e-switch.
Seems to be dreamware
You might ask Hank, he delivers the K1 with XHP35 and that uses an e-switch…
thanks
I think the K1, K9.3 and DM11 all have the same driver diameter, 29.9mm, with GND ring of 2.6mm.
I sent an email to Hank. We’ll see what he says.
The diameter is not of much importance to me for what I want to try. But single cell voltage input is. So I’ll post what Hank comes back with.
$19 for one plus $8 shipping. Might be worth it to experiment 
If you end up getting one I’d appreciate pictures of it, I’m curious about the components used.
I’ll let you know; still not decided for sure, but thinking
At least it’s not dreamware anymore 
I ordered one of those drivers (12 V 2 A) just now, along with a DM11 w/B35AM
@thefreeman…… The DM11 driver I ordered came a few days ago. I took some pictures but do not know how useful they will be to see the layout because of the stacked layers. Overall height, minus the spring, is about 10mm. This is the 12 volt 2 amp output version. Images are clickable to open larger version.
I have a question. Am I correct to believe the little grey box is an inductor? How warm or hot does one of those get in use?
That’s it, and they can get quite warm in operation.
I went and looked at the datasheet for one similar and it list –55c to 125c so about 250f degrees, depends on the inductor.
I wasn’t really sure, but I have seen them hot enough to burn fingers.
If the pill is close to the top of the inductor when installed, you can add a small blob of thermal paste to the top of the inductor to help shed some of that heat to the pill.
I would only do this if I was planning on leaving the driver in for awhile. It could get messy if your taking it in and out.
Thanks. So if this was being piggy backed inside a host with a larger size driver that was going to be stripped of the old components, it would be good to use thermal adhesive to secure the inductor to the old driver disc or a copper disc that could transfer heat to the aluminum host body.
According to the datasheets of some similar inductors I looked up that is their operational temp range.
So they can withstand and run hot just fine. I have always thought with most electronics the cooler they run the longer they will last.
So if its possible heatsinking it would be a good idea. It should also let all the other components run slightly cooler since all the heat from the inductor is not being sinked into the PCB. This probably only matters if running 100% for extended lengths of time.
There is some more space on coil pad , so i ques its possible to use wider-bigger, better spec. coil but only same height.
Thanks for the pics MtnDon, indeed we can’t see much due to the inductor board.
The size looks like 1030 (10x10x3mm) or maybe 1040. Probably less than 10mΩ, input current between 7 and 10A depending on Vin, so about 1W maximum dissipated into the inductor, just for the duration of turbo. Shouldn’t get too hot, although I guess the daughter board design doesn’t help with dissipation.
Yes even the silkscreen indicates the space for a larger one, maybe 13x13mm.