[ALL SOLD] Spring Cleaning Sale

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scalpel_ninja
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[ALL SOLD] Spring Cleaning Sale

Batteries may be available upon request for a small amount more.

All prices are PayPal G&S shipped within CONUS insured priority mail.

1. Nitecore D10 modded by CerealKiller: custom with Anduril. I’ll add a clip for it too. $75 SOLD
2. Nitecore SRT3: pretty much brand new. $30 SOLD
3. Novatac 85T with clip: turns on and has been “unlocked” for all functions; I reamed a deep carry clip from an FW3A to fit this light. $75 SOLD
4. Novatac SPL-120: turns on but flickers; I haven’t tried to diagnose the cause. $50 SOLD
5. Jetbeam RRT01, 2019 edition modded by Vinh. Configured with a beaded TIR optic for a warm floody 95CRI beam. Comes with six vials of tritium in the tail in a rainbow pattern. COE, box, o-rings, wrench, and original reflector included. $130 SOLD
6. Prometheus Alpha Ready Made Flashlight. MCE Quad-die emitter; comes with oil, extra black switch boot, original shipping tube. It has two patches of discoloration in the EN finish, as seen in the photos; clip hides these patches just fine. $160 SOLD
7. Olight tan i1R 2 (ano is scuffed, comes with charging cable, no box). Free to the first buyer who requests it with a purchase. claimed
8. Olight black i5T (new cosmetic condition, no box). Free to the first buyer who requests it. claimed
9. Olight black i1R 2, new in sealed box. $5 add on only.
10. Olight black i5T, new in sealed box. $10 add on only. SOLD

Full Gallery

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

Edited by: scalpel_ninja on 05/11/2021 - 21:25
Gunga
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Pm sent

nfsunder2
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I will take “ 3. Novatac 85T with clip” and request for “ 8. Olight black i5T”. Thanks!

slmjim
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I'll take the two i1R 2's.

 

slmjim

Smile! It makes others wonder what you've been up to.

Time is more valuable than money.
You can get more money, but you cannot get more time.

scalpel_ninja
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slmjim wrote:

I’ll take the two i1R 2’s.


 


slmjim

Hello, thanks for your interest, however the i1R2s are add-ons only at this time. The sealed one being for a small amount, the used one free; but both only available if another light is purchased. Sorry I wasn’t clear about that when listing #7. I’ve updated the listing.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

Jchang76
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Pm regarding nitecore d10 sent

Jchang76
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I’ll take nitecore d10, thx!

zoulas
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I am not familiar with Novatac but man that is an exact copy of HDS.

scalpel_ninja
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zoulas wrote:
I am not familiar with Novatac but man that is an exact copy of HDS.

As I understand it, Novatac is an ancestor of HDS? At least according to their website.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

jon_slider
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Novatac is designed by the same guy as the Basic and the HDS.
First came the Basic, then the Novatac, and now the HDS
the Basic and the Novatac are smaller than the HDS
here is a side by side

Im a big Novatac fan, googling my handle and the word novatac will bring up a lot of posts and photos. Im happy to share more info to help the buyer learn to take advantage of all the features.

Novatac and HDS share a 4 mode clicky UI, that includes 22 separate levels, including several sublumen options

each of the 4 modes are user programmable
for example, my novatac always starts on
0.2 lumens from a single click, my second mode is set to
15 lumens from a double click, for my third mode I have set to
strobe from a triple click, and if I
mash the button the light gives momentary maximum

it is an extremely versatile UI, mode levels and orders can be changed at will

what the HDS does different, is it adds a rotary dial.

flickering Novatacs are sometimes caused by too much lubricant in the head, getting onto the signal spring. Alcohol cleaning can solve the problem. Sometimes a new spring solves the problem.. they are a little touchy.. similar to the FW3A inner tube, that serves the same function.

The Novatac in this ad is a nice one, it has a stainless steel bezel (that has a black coating). It is one of the older models, that I like better. Later Spa Novatacs have aluminium bezels.

There are a couple of other circumstances that cause Novatac flicker.. some tend to do it at certain battery levels, such as half empty.. they are also prone to flicker on the lowest levels, but that can usually be bypassed by choosing a different step in the sequence.

some great lights in this thread
good luck to the new owners

zoulas
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Good info. Thanks

jon_slider
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that Nitecore SRT3 is a very cool light too..

has a Stepless Rotary UI

like the V11r and RRT-01, Plus it can flash red and blue aux leds like a police light…

scalpel_ninja
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Thanks jon_slider! Always very informative and helpful.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

jon_slider
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glad if it helps Thumbs Up
you have some very nice lights on offer

scalpel_ninja
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Updated as buyer for RRT01 never responded. Price drop as well.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

Firelight2
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jon_slider wrote:
that Nitecore SRT3 is a very cool light too..

has a Stepless Rotary UI

like the V11r and RRT-01, Plus it can flash red and blue aux leds like a police light…

I have an SRT3. Fun light.

Build quality is excellent with superb anodizing.

However it is an old light and at least one feature now standard on modern lights is not in the SRT3. It uses a thin aluminum non-DTP star. Back when it came out, copper stars either weren’t around or weren’t standard.

I reflowed the XML2 off mine and replaced it with a neutral white SST40. This improved the output, but it will never be a powerhouse compared to today’s pocket rockets.

jon_slider
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Firelight2 wrote:

I reflowed the XML2 off mine and replaced it with a neutral white SST40. This improved the output, but it will never be a powerhouse compared to today’s pocket rockets.

thanks, I respect your first hand experience
for me, pocket rocket is not important

my flashlight use pattern is satisfied with 200 lumens or less

I tend to compare lights to HDS (cost $300), whose output maxes out at 325 lumens. So to me, the SRT3 (cost $30) is a bargain. It has a Stepless Ramping UI, which I prefer over the HDS Stepped Ramping. And the SRT3 is less expensive and can reach both higher and lower output levels than an HDS.

So to me, the SRT3 is a very inexpensive way to experience the Stepless Rotary UI, that is my personal favorite.

The SRT3 also works with an AA extension, making it very versatile, can work on Eneloop, or 14500, or CR123, or 16340

it appears from photos that this AA extension is the same as the one used in the SRT3, though I have not personally confirmed.

scalpel_ninja
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Firelight2 wrote:

I have an SRT3. Fun light.

Build quality is excellent with superb anodizing.

However it is an old light and at least one feature now standard on modern lights is not in the SRT3. It uses a thin aluminum non-DTP star. Back when it came out, copper stars either weren’t around or weren’t standard.

I reflowed the XML2 off mine and replaced it with a neutral white SST40. This improved the output, but it will never be a powerhouse compared to today’s pocket rockets.

I kinda like the light too. If it doesn’t sell, I might reflow a new emitter as well. Any tips on how to get the head open? Things to watch out for?

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

nfsunder2
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Thanks Jon, that’s very informative! I have a HDS rotary and want to try its predecessors Wink

jon_slider wrote:
Novatac is designed by the same guy as the Basic and the HDS.
First came the Basic, then the Novatac, and now the HDS
the Basic and the Novatac are smaller than the HDS
here is a side by side

Im a big Novatac fan, googling my handle and the word novatac will bring up a lot of posts and photos. Im happy to share more info to help the buyer learn to take advantage of all the features.

Novatac and HDS share a 4 mode clicky UI, that includes 22 separate levels, including several sublumen options

each of the 4 modes are user programmable
for example, my novatac always starts on
0.2 lumens from a single click, my second mode is set to
15 lumens from a double click, for my third mode I have set to
strobe from a triple click, and if I
mash the button the light gives momentary maximum

it is an extremely versatile UI, mode levels and orders can be changed at will

what the HDS does different, is it adds a rotary dial.

flickering Novatacs are sometimes caused by too much lubricant in the head, getting onto the signal spring. Alcohol cleaning can solve the problem. Sometimes a new spring solves the problem.. they are a little touchy.. similar to the FW3A inner tube, that serves the same function.

The Novatac in this ad is a nice one, it has a stainless steel bezel (that has a black coating). It is one of the older models, that I like better. Later Spa Novatacs have aluminium bezels.

There are a couple of other circumstances that cause Novatac flicker.. some tend to do it at certain battery levels, such as half empty.. they are also prone to flicker on the lowest levels, but that can usually be bypassed by choosing a different step in the sequence.

some great lights in this thread
good luck to the new owners

jon_slider
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nfsunder2 wrote:
Thanks Jon, that’s very informative! I have a HDS rotary and want to try its predecessors Wink

glad you enjoy the info
congrats on your Rotary

the Novatac form factor is excellent in hand.

The beam has a nice tight hotspot too, very much like an HDS.

BOO5TED
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Damn wish I’d seen the Alpha sooner. Sad

Do you have the AA extender for the Nitecore? Package deal for the Nitecore and Jetbeam?

"America has three cities, New York, San Francisco and New Orleans. Everywhere else is Cleveland."- Tennessee Williams

 

 

scalpel_ninja
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BOO5TED wrote:
Damn wish I’d seen the Alpha sooner. Sad

Do you have the AA extender for the Nitecore? Package deal for the Nitecore and Jetbeam?

No extender for the Nitecore. PM sent about package deal.

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red

Firelight2
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scalpel_ninja wrote:
Firelight2 wrote:
I have an SRT3. Fun light.

I kinda like the light too. If it doesn’t sell, I might reflow a new emitter as well. Any tips on how to get the head open? Things to watch out for?

I used a piece of grey 3M grip tape pressed into the bezel for extra grip to help unscrew the bezel. The bezel was not glued so was fairly easy to remove. With the bezel off the lens can then just fall out. Then insert something under the edge of the o-ring to remove it. With that out the reflector should fall out.

Now comes the tough part:

  • The SRT3 has a tiny aluminum star with an aux LED board on top of it.
  • The aux LED board has 4 miniscule wires that connect to bondpads on the underside of the board. Even worse, the wires did not appear long enough to get at those bondpads. I quickly concluded that if I desoldered the aux board I’d never be able to resolder it.
  • I desoldered the driver wires from the star. Then I tilted up the aux board and lifted and twisted the star around it until I could get it out of the light for the reflow. I did not attempt to desolder the aux board.

scalpel_ninja
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Thank you for the info!

Current Collection:

Inova X5 | Maratac Titanium Inspection AAAx2 XPL-G2 swapped to Nichia 219B sw45K | Wowtac A2S NW | Thrunite Ti3 NW | FW3 CuTi XPL-HI 5000K + 18350 tube | Olight I1R EOS (de-anodized) | Convoy S2+ 7135x8 T6-3B | SkyLumen LEPvn | HDS Rotary Nichia 219B 4000K | Nitecore Cu TINI | Fraz Labs Tiny Tank 18350 | TnC Aluminum Deep Red