FW1A Pro - replacing emitter for more throw

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galenlai
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FW1A Pro - replacing emitter for more throw

Hi Flashlight Experts.
I want to swap out the XHP50.2 emitter to one that offers more throw without changing the driver.
I am considering these 2…
XPL Hi
XHP35
Will either work as plug and play while maintaining the current driver?

uselessuser
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Neither will fit the MCPCB (it’s of 5050 footprint and these emitters are 3535). If you also swap out the MCPCB you can use the XP-L HI (it’s a 3V emitter just like the XHP50.2 that is in the stock torch while the XHP35 is 12V).
I’d just get the FW1A non-pro with a XP-L HI.

galenlai
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What if I swap out the whole MCPCB with one that has XPL Hi on it. Will that work with the existing driver? Thanks

sungar
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You can try to switch emiter to sst40. It does not have same intensity as xpl-hi, but much higher output compensates this issue. It is probably highest throwing 5050 led.

uselessuser
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galenlai wrote:
What if I swap out the whole MCPCB with one that has XPL Hi on it. Will that work with the existing driver? Thanks

Yes, but not with the gasket (the thing that keeps it aligned with the reflector).
lfb
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If you are going to change the MCPCB I think you can go with CSLPM1 or CULPM1. Buying from convoy, CSLPM1 has better BIN.

Deluminator
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Simon has new emitter on his ali store! SFT-40! 3v 5050. From what I can tell, it has similar output as sst-40 but more throw due to no dome.

Xpl hi would make it a plain fw1a.

Xhp35 is the wrong voltage.

So imo osram or sft-40 is your perfect option.

Be reckless and take a chance on SFT-40. I bought 2 waiting on shipping. I believe in luminus

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002783273284.html link to SFT-40, IMO why mod a light to a factory version of itself, build a light others will envy

lfb
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Deluminator wrote:
Simon has new emitter on his ali store! SFT-40! 3v 5050. From what I can tell, it has similar output as sst-40 but more throw due to no dome.

Xpl hi would make it a plain fw1a.

Xhp35 is the wrong voltage.

So imo osram or sft-40 is your perfect option.

Be reckless and take a chance on SFT-40. I bought 2 waiting on shipping. I believe in luminus


I forgot about SFT-40.It can be reflowed on original MCPCB. Not the best BIN tint, but no the worst either. Actually it’s the only available I think :D.
galenlai
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Thanks for all advices.
I will probably get a CULPM1 and SFT-40 and try them out.

tascagdas
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i ordered fw1a with xplhi and w1 from simon. im goingto try swap led. when i do that i will write it here.

galenlai
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What is W1?

MascaratumB
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galenlai wrote:
What is W1?

It is the OSRAM KW CSLNM1.TG (1mm2) Led.

Thread reference: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/63255

galenlai
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Ok. Thanks for the info.
I thought CULPM1 would be a better option?
Anyway, I’m unable to find emitter for CULPM1, so I ordered for SFT40 instead.

ArtieT59
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Put an osram in it! That's what I'm going to do once I buy one again lol

Check out some of my new lights (picture heavy) and quick first impressions of them here: https://budgetlightforum.com/node/77180

wle
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i thought throw was more about the reflector, than the driver/LED

"You never have the wind with you - it's either against you, or you're having a good day."
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lfb
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tascagdas wrote:
i ordered fw1a with xplhi and w1 from simon. im goingto try swap led. when i do that i will write it here.

I think that for turbo is better to go with 2mm2 osram. 1mm2 tops out around 4A-5A.
galenlai
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So to confirm again, the original driver for XHP50.2 in the FW1A Pro works if i swap in a SFT40 or CULPM1 mcpcb? Or do I need to swap the correct driver as well?

Deluminator
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I read you were having trouble finding CULPM1, Here is the link on Convoys store,

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001352708356.html

Either one will work. CULPM1 will have to be bought on mcpcb and make sure to ask Simon for proper led gasket

galenlai
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Ok Thanks!

galenlai
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I have done it.
FW1A Pro with CULPM1.
Now waiting for the smooth reflector to arrive.
The original mcpcb is 3mm thick.
So i double stack a bare mcpcb below the CULPM1 mcpcb, both 1.5mm.
Btw, the original body is from the stainless steel FW3A/FW3S.
P/S…I had to file the edges of the 20mm CULPM1 mcpcb as the original diameter of the mcpcb is 19mm





MoreLumens
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You like it?

Didn’t know that wires goes under mcpcb just like that. Why they didn’t drill two holes in factory for wires?

galenlai
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MoreLumens wrote:
You like it?

Didn’t know that wires goes under mcpcb just like that. Why they didn’t drill two holes in factory for wires?

Yes, definitely better throw than original XHP50.
I have no idea why they designed it like that.
I put a whole lot of thermal paste to fill up the gaps.

Marc E
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Just to check, does the bottom of the original MCPCB have channels to accommodate the wires? I’m struggling to believe it just sits on top of the wires.

joebob4501
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What smooth reflector are you planning on using?

Marc E
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wle wrote:
i thought throw was more about the reflector, than the driver/LED

A key factor is the surface intensity of the LED, the more intensity the more throw there is.
If you have 2 LEDs with the same total brightness (total lumens output) and one has half the emitting surface area of the other it will have more intensity, more brightness/lumens per area, and will have more throw as a result.

If you have a bright LED with a large surface area and a less bright LED with a smaller surface area that happen to have the same intensity they will throw the same but the larger LED will give a larger hotspot.

The driver comes into play by providing enough power to the LED for it to run correctly, brighter an LED the more throw there is. Sometimes an LED is underdriven so doesn’t reach it’s full potential but an LED can also be overdriven and can lose brightness as a result.

treellama
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Marc E wrote:
Just to check, does the bottom of the original MCPCB have channels to accommodate the wires? I’m struggling to believe it just sits on top of the wires.

That’s a stainless steel head, it never had a single MCPCB, they’re all triples.
Marc E
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treellama wrote:
Marc E wrote:
Just to check, does the bottom of the original MCPCB have channels to accommodate the wires? I’m struggling to believe it just sits on top of the wires.

That’s a stainless steel head, it never had a single MCPCB, they’re all triples.

I’m confused by this, from what i’ve seen the FW1A PRO is sold with a single emitter, the XHP50.2 pictured above, and stainless steel will provide some heat transfer through the body to the outside air, not as much as aluminium or copper but certainly more if the MCPCB touches than the shelf than if it doesn’t.

EDIT – It’s entirely possible my confusion is down to me not realising that body means head as well, and not just body as i assumed:

galenlai wrote:
Btw, the original body is from the stainless steel FW3A/FW3S.
treellama
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Marc E wrote:

EDIT – It’s entirely possible my confusion is down to me not realising that body means head as well, and not just body as i assumed:

I think that’s the situation. But, I agree it would be better, even with stainless, to get the MCPCB resting on the shelf.
galenlai
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Marc E wrote:
Just to check, does the bottom of the original MCPCB have channels to accommodate the wires? I’m struggling to believe it just sits on top of the wires.

Unfortunately, yes, that’s how it is. Can’t do anything about it.

galenlai
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joebob4501 wrote:
What smooth reflector are you planning on using?

Getting a reflector from FW1A. It’s a smooth reflector.

galenlai
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Marc E wrote:
treellama wrote:
Marc E wrote:
Just to check, does the bottom of the original MCPCB have channels to accommodate the wires? I’m struggling to believe it just sits on top of the wires.

That’s a stainless steel head, it never had a single MCPCB, they’re all triples.

I’m confused by this, from what i’ve seen the FW1A PRO is sold with a single emitter, the XHP50.2 pictured above, and stainless steel will provide some heat transfer through the body to the outside air, not as much as aluminium or copper but certainly more if the MCPCB touches than the shelf than if it doesn’t.

EDIT – It’s entirely possible my confusion is down to me not realising that body means head as well, and not just body as i assumed:

galenlai wrote:
Btw, the original body is from the stainless steel FW3A/FW3S.

Sorry, i meant the head.
It would be perfect if the wires had a channel to run through and the mcpcb sits flat inside the head.
But it still managed to dissipate enough heat through the head after i added more thermal paste into the gap where the wires are.

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