Lumintop LM10 question

5 posts / 0 new
Last post
zoulas
zoulas's picture
Offline
Last seen: 10 hours 20 min ago
Joined: 06/01/2020 - 08:35
Posts: 1934
Lumintop LM10 question

Does the LM10 suffer from the same quality control issues as the FW3A? I have read on BLF that the FW3A is horribly inconsistent in terms of parts usage such as optic, driver etc.

Is the LM10 in the same boat or is the quality control better being that it’s about twice the price of the FW3A?

Edited by: zoulas on 09/23/2021 - 07:03
raccoon city
raccoon city's picture
Online
Last seen: 8 min 33 sec ago
Joined: 10/06/2010 - 02:35
Posts: 17056
Location: रॅकून सिटी Palm Desert CA USA

I don't know about the Lumintop LM10, but I hear from ToyKeeper that the Noctigon KR4 is a more reliable alternative to the FW3A.

Correllux
Correllux's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 day 16 hours ago
Joined: 04/27/2019 - 22:23
Posts: 483
Location: USA

No sure about that light specifically but at this point I am just about to where I won’t buy Lumintop-anything anymore. QC is generally decent but they can’t seem to make a light that lasts – lots of driver failures. If I were to buy from them again it would only be on Amazon and would only be inexpensive lights because their tendency to discontinue models and not have parts available and generally being hard to reach them, with long delays once you do, and then actually getting parts….just easier to throw them away or buy from another manufacturer.

Got a KR4 and it’s a lovely light. Considerably bulkier than the FW3A but all around nice and worth the cost.

Firelight2
Firelight2's picture
Offline
Last seen: 1 hour 26 min ago
Joined: 04/08/2011 - 15:17
Posts: 4601
Location: California

No issues with the LM10 here.

The tailcap construction is a bit different and seems more robust. My LM10 is more robust and reliable than my FW3As.

xevious
xevious's picture
Offline
Last seen: 2 hours 48 min ago
Joined: 02/27/2013 - 21:55
Posts: 2532
Location: Hoboken, NJ USA

The LM10 being much more expensive means far fewer have been sold. So, there’s less anecdotal reports of problems. The one saving grace of the LM10 is that it’s very difficult to remove the tailcap. So, battery replacement from the front helps ensure that the contact issues are pretty much non-existent. The tailcap switch feels different from the FW3A. But from what I’m told, it’s a very similar design whereby there’s an internal “nubbin” that can be removed and replaced with a mini o-ring to increase resistance.

My FW3A has been extremely reliable. But I never take off the tailcap—always replacing batteries from the front.